FJR Master Brake and Clutch cylinder questions

[Ojref]

Hi all,

I recently picked up a 1991 Max - having previously owned a 2001, the first thing I aspire to improve are the brakes. The clutch master cylinder could use a rebuild, and so can the front MC - to which can be replaced by the 2003 FJR's MC to my understanding. Can the clutch MC be replaced as well with the FJR's, is it a direct fit, and will the mirrors bolt up as well?

Also, where is a good online source for Yamaha OE parts?

Thanks!

[vmaxman99]

Yes, you can use the FJR Clutch master as well. I have both on my '99. Best place to buy is University Motors. The hole for the mirror is on my masters, but I don't use them as I have bar end mirrors from Mario.

[Mr. Lynn]

Good day all,
I hope your turkey day was a great one. Two questions if I may. Front Brake Master Cylinder screws. How do you pound them loose. They are stripping on me. Last qiestion is with the clutch. I saw it some where that if the bike is cold when shifting into 1st it lunges forward, which mine does, can you please direct me to that information previously posted. Thanks.

[Ojref]

My FJR front brake master is up and running. The calipers - oh my god... Mind you I have a 91, and obviously, the previous owners believed in changing the pads and not bleeding through the old fluid. The fluid in the calipers, both brake and clutch had to have been 18 years old...

I could never get the fronts to engage properly after changing the pads with Galfer blacks. The handle would sink to the handlebar like a hot knife through butter. So, I removed the calipers, proportioning valve and lines, split the calipers and lo and behold, I found a substance that looked like runny egg yolks. Both calipers' balance valves were almost sealed shut with the crud, save for a small pinhole through the goop. The proportioning valve had a pin hole open for fluid to flow, the rest of it was gummed shut.

I boiled the calipers, lines and valves for three hours in water and a diluted mix of Simple Green to loosen the crud enough to be cleaned out by air pressure. I got all the water out I can, whatever was left was picked up by the bleed-through process. I pumped almost a whole can of Valvoline Synthetic through before I was satisfied with the feel. I can lock the front tire up now so it skids the pavement, mind you, this is the older Max 2 pot calipers. The FJR's are working perfectly now! I can't wait until I get some R1 calipers up front. As for the clutch, I had to replace a sticking slave cylinder and put a Galfer SS line in place to get it to function properly. Aside from the DD mod making the lever feel like a dragbike's clutch, it's working perfectly!

[one2dmax]

I'm actually very close to having the 6 pot huyabusa caliper adapters ready to make. I just need to come up with a set of brand new pads to make sure I have the caliper centered enough for a new set to fit - the current set looks new but I want to make sure..

The adapter will be very inexpensive compared to the r1's. Also, they will require you upgrade to newer rotors (either stock 93 and up Vmax, aftermarket for those years, or R1 rotors with bolt holes milled to clear the bolt heads). Braking power when combined with the FJR should be incredible with excellent "feel"

Sean Morley

[Buster Hymen]

I'm actually very close to having the 6 pot huyabusa caliper adapters ready to make. I just need to come up with a set of brand new pads to make sure I have the caliper centered enough for a new set to fit - the current set looks new but I want to make sure..

The adapter will be very inexpensive compared to the r1's. Also, they will require you upgrade to newer rotors (either stock 93 and up Vmax, aftermarket for those years, or R1 rotors with bolt holes milled to clear the bolt heads). Braking power when combined with the FJR should be incredible with excellent "feel"

Sean Morley

What size 6 pot Tokicos are they? The large or the smaller size ones?

[one2dmax]

They are fairly large. I don't recall the year of the busa they were from but want to say 2001. Would have to check my ebay paperwork.

Sean

[onebadv2]

Hey Sean, let me know when your 'busa adapters are ready as I think I may go that way. If I understand you correctly, I will need to get "93 up Vmax rotors to bolt on to my '89 wheels, your adapters and calipers from the 'busa. Anything else? Do I need to change the master cylinder? Thanks for your help. George

[Buster Hymen]

They are fairly large. I don't recall the year of the busa they were from but want to say 2001. Would have to check my ebay paperwork.

Sean

Here are the 2 sizes. The "smaller" ones are easier to make a bracket for.

[Buster Hymen]

Hey Sean, let me know when your 'busa adapters are ready as I think I may go that way. If I understand you correctly, I will need to get "93 up Vmax rotors to bolt on to my '89 wheels, your adapters and calipers from the 'busa. Anything else? Do I need to change the master cylinder? Thanks for your help. George

I've got 6 pots on mine. You can also use a rotor off an R1 or R6 since they are the same size/bolt pattern. I'm using the stock master and it is OK but I think I'm going to swap in a 14 mm FJR master as that is the "proper" match for the caliper.

[one2dmax]

I need to get a set of brand new brake pads for the calipers I have to ensure that they are centered well enough to get them in. The sets I have look new but want to make sure they are going to work well.

The ones I have look very similar to the set in the first picture.

You'll need the rotors (either stock 93 up vmax, 99-02 (not sure if newer) R1 rotors (which may need recessed bored to let bolt heads clear forks), and the adapters. FJR master and braided brake lines would definetly add the icing but I don't think they will be needed.

I do have a pic of roughly what it will look like but the adapter is not the final product (it's from our 4 piston adapters).

Sean Morley

[gleno]

Nice Job Sean

[gamorg02]

My FJR front brake master is up and running. The calipers - oh my god... Mind you I have a 91, and obviously, the previous owners believed in changing the pads and not bleeding through the old fluid. The fluid in the calipers, both brake and clutch had to have been 18 years old...

I could never get the fronts to engage properly after changing the pads with Galfer blacks. The handle would sink to the handlebar like a hot knife through butter. So, I removed the calipers, proportioning valve and lines, split the calipers and lo and behold, I found a substance that looked like runny egg yolks. Both calipers' balance valves were almost sealed shut with the crud, save for a small pinhole through the goop. The proportioning valve had a pin hole open for fluid to flow, the rest of it was gummed shut.

I boiled the calipers, lines and valves for three hours in water and a diluted mix of Simple Green to loosen the crud enough to be cleaned out by air pressure. I got all the water out I can, whatever was left was picked up by the bleed-through process. I pumped almost a whole can of Valvoline Synthetic through before I was satisfied with the feel. I can lock the front tire up now so it skids the pavement, mind you, this is the older Max 2 pot calipers. The FJR's are working perfectly now! I can't wait until I get some R1 calipers up front. As for the clutch, I had to replace a sticking slave cylinder and put a Galfer SS line in place to get it to function properly. Aside from the DD mod making the lever feel like a dragbike's clutch, it's working perfectly!

interesting. mine is hitting the grip too easily too. i'm running the 16mm bore so it shoudl feel similar to my old master cylinder (which had no problems locking the front tire).

does this mean i may need to look into rebuilding my calipers?

[one2dmax]

It's possible. The FJR's may be displacing a bit less fluid volume and you may need to adjust the lever or push rod (can't remember if they have an adjustment to take out any play before the plunger is started to engage).

Sean

[gamorg02]

It's possible. The FJR's may be displacing a bit less fluid volume and you may need to adjust the lever or push rod (can't remember if they have an adjustment to take out any play before the plunger is started to engage).

Sean

hmm. this is with the lever all the way out (5 adjustments), which i would prefer to run it the the lever closer, but if i do i can have it touch the grip too easily..

i don't know if there is any adjustment but i'll check. i may be missing a part too, if i remember correctly there is a pin touching the caliper which actually gets driven into the m/c, bu tlooks like there should be a cap on the pin which might take up that slack. (the top and second from the top of part #2 here)...

anyone have a picture of a good 2005 fjr master that is working well?

[one2dmax]

Doesn't look like it is adjustable like our front brake master is. Now, before you condemn it you may need to ride it. It will feel softer at the lever but put more stopping power out. Again I am not sure about the one with the same bore size.

[gamorg02]

Doesn't look like it is adjustable like our front brake master is.

agreed, but if i'm missing that 'cap' then i bet that would take up a TON of the free play.

Now, before you condemn it you may need to ride it. It will feel softer at the lever but put more stopping power out. Again I am not sure about the one with the same bore size.

believe it or not i did ride it for about 30 miles sunday. it did get 'harder' with time meaning where it first started engaging came further out, but i still don't like being able to touch it to the grip at a stand still, with the furthest setting out.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

agreed, but if i'm missing that 'cap' then i bet that would take up a TON of the free play.



believe it or not i did ride it for about 30 miles sunday. it did get 'harder' with time meaning where it first started engaging came further out, but i still don't like being able to touch it to the grip at a stand still, with the furthest setting out.

The "cap" you are referring to on the fiche is actually the rubber boot that surrounds the pin that actuates the piston inside of the master cylinder. Its only purpose is to keep debris from entering the outer bore of the master.

I'm can't say with certainty, but I highly doubt, that the less than .005" of bore diameter between the '05 FJR master and the Vmax master is enough of a difference in size to cause this bad lever feel.

I would try to bleed again.

[RagingMain]

I have the FJR masters, the busa calipers and EBC-HH pads and I want to say

!!!!THANK GOD!!!!

and this forum.

I had a GD MthFkr Stupid Dumb Ass Shit for Brains cager pull in front of me yesterday coming to work while I was doing 60 or so. Without these brakes I wouldnt be here right now!!!

If anyone has ever contemplated doing this, DO IT!!!!
Cheers

[gamorg02]

The "cap" you are referring to on the fiche is actually the rubber boot that surrounds the pin that actuates the piston inside of the master cylinder. Its only purpose is to keep debris from entering the outer bore of the master.

I'm can't say with certainty, but I highly doubt, that the less than .005" of bore diameter between the '05 FJR master and the Vmax master is enough of a difference in size to cause this bad lever feel.

I would try to bleed again.

ah rubber boot ok. i don't think its there, but either way if it was plastic it migh thelp but def not rubber.

i'll try re-bleeding and reporting back. speed bleeders make that an easy job. maybe try bleeding both calipers at the same time. also could try pushing the pistons back in like u mentioned mike. that way the calipers re-bed sort of.

I have the FJR masters, the busa calipers and EBC-HH pads and I want to say

!!!!THANK GOD!!!!

and this forum.

I had a GD MthFkr Stupid Dumb Ass Shit for Brains cager pull in front of me yesterday coming to work while I was doing 60 or so. Without these brakes I wouldnt be here right now!!!

If anyone has ever contemplated doing this, DO IT!!!!
Cheers

which year you running for your masters fargo?

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

ah rubber boot ok. i don't think its there, but either way if it was plastic it migh thelp but def not rubber.



The rubber boot is attached to the body of the master cylinder. All it does is keep dirt from getting in and damaging the piston. The piston is what does the hydraulic work. The pin is what acutates the piston. The pin sits directly in the "cup" built into the brake lever. It passes through the rubber boot (the part you thought was the "cap") and goes into the bore and pushes the piston. The rubber has no effect on lever feel, its just a barrier for debris.

[gamorg02]

The rubber boot is attached to the body of the master cylinder. All it does is keep dirt from getting in and damaging the piston. The piston is what does the hydraulic work. The pin is what acutates the piston. The pin sits directly in the "cup" built into the brake lever. It passes through the rubber boot (the part you thought was the "cap") and goes into the bore and pushes the piston. The rubber has no effect on lever feel, its just a barrier for debris.


oh oh ok. so it doesn't sit in the 'cup'. its like halfway down the piston.

[RagingMain]

ah rubber boot ok. i don't think its there, but either way if it was plastic it migh thelp but def not rubber.

i'll try re-bleeding and reporting back. speed bleeders make that an easy job. maybe try bleeding both calipers at the same time. also could try pushing the pistons back in like u mentioned mike. that way the calipers re-bed sort of.



which year you running for your masters fargo?

Ahh shit you would have to ask that Garrett. I want to say the 2003 off the top of my head, which ever ones they are the Brake master didnt have a hole for the mirrors, had to drill and tap.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

oh oh ok. so it doesn't sit in the 'cup'. its like halfway down the piston.

Correct. It does not sit in the cup of the lever. It is pressed into the body of the master. Then you insert the pin. The pin sits between the lever and the piston. Yes, it is halfway down the pin. If you look at the parts diagram you can see some ridges in the pin. These ridges help to locate the pin in the rubber boot and help form a tight seal against the rubber.

Your issues sound opposite of what *should* happen. If you go smaller in bore diameter you get a softer lever, more lever travel to move the fluid, less fluid volume moved, more fluid pressure.

If you go larger (which you did by .005" so in effect, not much at all) you typically get a firmer lever, less lever travel to move the the fluid, more fluid volume, less fluid pressure.

Doesn't really make sense that the lever would take more travel and feel softer if the MC bore is larger by such a small amount. I would lean toward air in the system. Could be residual air from having a totally empty MC to start with, could be some sneaking in past the threads of the speed bleeders during the bleeding operation ( i have heard some people mention this), could be some air leaking in past the seals in either the calipers, or MC (doubtful but possible, they typically last a LONG time).

If you have a might vac, give that a shot, if not, and your using the speed bleeders try putting a little bit of grease or some sealant on the threads of them.

[gamorg02]

Ahh shit you would have to ask that Garrett. I want to say the 2003 off the top of my head, which ever ones they are the Brake master didnt have a hole for the mirrors, had to drill and tap.

hmm no tsure. my '05 ABS ones are not drilled in the boss

Correct. It does not sit in the cup of the lever. It is pressed into the body of the master. Then you insert the pin. The pin sits between the lever and the piston. Yes, it is halfway down the pin. If you look at the parts diagram you can see some ridges in the pin. These ridges help to locate the pin in the rubber boot and help form a tight seal against the rubber.

Your issues sound opposite of what *should* happen. If you go smaller in bore diameter you get a softer lever, more lever travel to move the fluid, less fluid volume moved, more fluid pressure.

If you go larger (which you did by .005" so in effect, not much at all) you typically get a firmer lever, less lever travel to move the the fluid, more fluid volume, less fluid pressure.

Doesn't really make sense that the lever would take more travel and feel softer if the MC bore is larger by such a small amount. I would lean toward air in the system. Could be residual air from having a totally empty MC to start with, could be some sneaking in past the threads of the speed bleeders during the bleeding operation ( i have heard some people mention this), could be some air leaking in past the seals in either the calipers, or MC (doubtful but possible, they typically last a LONG time).

If you have a might vac, give that a shot, if not, and your using the speed bleeders try putting a little bit of grease or some sealant on the threads of them.

i used a mityvac to pull the initial fluid thru to the calipers on the dry line then used the speed bleeders as it displaces a lot more fluid than the mityvac does.

i can definitely try again. no air getting thru speedbleeders as they have a sealing compound on them that was one of the reason i wanted them.

i am 100% with you on the bore size shouldn't matter. altho with my old M/C and lever (thinking it might have had to do with the lever) the more fluid i had in the m/c the less 'free play' there was in the lever. also changed with temperature. one of the reasons I wanted to go with SS lines.

[gamorg02]

finally got to mess with this. i re-bleed a bunch and it helped a bit. still not 'perfect' but may very well be OK. i heard a trick that you leave your brake lever depressed and it will allow air to come up out of the system if it is still in there, so left the brake lever depressed for a couple hours today and then overnight tonight. only problem is the pads are dragging now but i think that will clear once the tire gets to spin a bit. otherwise i have another whole set of problems..

anyways, the pads are still kind of sticking but here is the current free play which is noticable and then the pull

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQuKgPhwy-Q

let me know your guys thoughts. still not great in my mind but better. this is on the exact middle of the adjustment of the lever.

[ksnick]

Garrett, when I changed my master a few months ago, I had similiar problems. I found that taking the handle of a screwdriver and tapping the brake line and working the air bubbles up into the master. Also "tapping of flicking" the brake lever. With the master cover off, you can see the very tiny bubbles coming out.
I was still not impressed with the lever action and with advice from here, I was given the suggestion to attach a small hose to each bleeder and put them into a container higher them the master. Bleed both sides normally to put fluid into the hoses (1-2 ft) and them open both bleeders and pump the lever. this gives the fluid a chance to move into and expel the trapped air.

[gamorg02]

Garrett, when I changed my master a few months ago, I had similiar problems. I found that taking the handle of a screwdriver and tapping the brake line and working the air bubbles up into the master. Also "tapping of flicking" the brake lever. With the master cover off, you can see the very tiny bubbles coming out.
I was still not impressed with the lever action and with advice from here, I was given the suggestion to attach a small hose to each bleeder and put them into a container higher them the master. Bleed both sides normally to put fluid into the hoses (1-2 ft) and them open both bleeders and pump the lever. this gives the fluid a chance to move into and expel the trapped air.

thanks for the heads up. i'll try that today. now any reason to do them at the same time? i've heard that as well. i have a mityvac and can work one at a time pretty easily as i even have some extra hose

[tugla]

garrett when i rebuilt my slave cly and then had to bleed, had tons of air, just kept working it, tapping it lightly watched tons of air bubbles comming up. lightly touched the lever and it did let more bubbles come up. took like a hour or more to get clutch feel in the lever. after i figured it was good, just for good measure i left the bleed screw open over night hose in container and seem to be good. havent started it yet but feels better then befor.

[gamorg02]

garrett when i rebuilt my slave cly and then had to bleed, had tons of air, just kept working it, tapping it lightly watched tons of air bubbles comming up. lightly touched the lever and it did let more bubbles come up. took like a hour or more to get clutch feel in the lever. after i figured it was good, just for good measure i left the bleed screw open over night hose in container and seem to be good. havent started it yet but feels better then befor.


no air bubbles came up yesterday after a while and when they did it was only 1 or 2 small ones. so i don't think its a massive air thing. i wonder if thats just the free play of the lever itself? does that look like too much play in the lever to u guys?

i might also try cleaning of my caliper pistons and pushing them all the way in and bleeding. less volume for air to hide in.

[veebooster]

You can try reverse bleeding.....from the brakes to the master via a syringe.
Just don't overflow the master.

Dale #2592

[tugla]

ya , reverse bleeding might be the a best solution here, you try hitting the calipers also with a rubber hammer, to help move the air bubbles out.

[gamorg02]

hey thanks everyone for help. feels a lot better now but only way to tell will be out on the road we'll see how she handles then.

still not 'perfect' but we'll see., there were no bubbles whatsoever coming out anymore so i think i cleared as much as i could.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

Hopefully you get it all sorted Garrett.

For those of you who can bleed an empty system in your sleep, I have some stupid questions for you. I'm terrible with bleeding, I always have issues and make a mess. Anyone have some detailed pointers on their bleeding procedure and how they keep things clean. Specifically after replacing or rebuilding components?

Also, when doing the reverse bleed how are you pumping more than one syringe of fluid in there without having issues? I can see the first one, no problem. But, when you have to remove the syringe and fill it back up again how are you doing that without introducing air into the system?

[vmax2extreme]

I'm chiming in here too....I just replaced my stock lines with the galfer SS lines and need to bleed them soon too. What size syringe and where do you get them with tubing?

[gamorg02]

Hopefully you get it all sorted Garrett.

For those of you who can bleed an empty system in your sleep, I have some stupid questions for you. I'm terrible with bleeding, I always have issues and make a mess. Anyone have some detailed pointers on their bleeding procedure and how they keep things clean. Specifically after replacing or rebuilding components?

Also, when doing the reverse bleed how are you pumping more than one syringe of fluid in there without having issues? I can see the first one, no problem. But, when you have to remove the syringe and fill it back up again how are you doing that without introducing air into the system?

great question. what if you keep the tubing attached and before it goes empty leave the tube mostly full right? close the valve, unattach the syringe and fill it back up. the tiny bit of air in the tube then once you attach the syringe should bubble up to the top of the syringe? then open the valve and push in again?

I'm chiming in here too....I just replaced my stock lines with the galfer SS lines and need to bleed them soon too. What size syringe and where do you get them with tubing?

any auto parts store. mityvac will work as well.

[vmax2extreme]

I do have a mighty vac. I will have to play with that then.

Thanks again,

Mike

[gamorg02]

I do have a mighty vac. I will have to play with that then.

Thanks again,

Mike


use ksnicks method and get some like 3' tubing so that you can hold the mityvac higher than the master cylinder so it is easier for it to pull air out.

[vmax2extreme]

Do you have a link to ksnicks method on here?

[gamorg02]

post #27 in this thread.

[gamorg02]

ok so it looks like we're all set. i can still grip it almost to the bar when at a standstill but if i did that when on the road id go end over end. tons of stopping power. also stopped by a bike shop and saw an '04 fjr so i tried out its levers and they had just as much play as mine. thanks mike, sean, etc!

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

Glad to hear it G. :punk:

[gamorg02]

yea. i think it just needed time to 'settle' and get used to the different feel of the lever. working great now. thanks again for the deal Mike.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

Hey Garrett, or anyone with a 14mm CLUTCH master: When you are letting out the clutch lever does it grab very close to the handlebar?

I just put on a 14mm clutch master from an 06 Concours (which is almost the exact same thing as the fjr master) and finished the bleeding process last night. I went thru a ton of fluid using the mighty vac trying to get the bubbles out of there. As far as I could tell, it all looked good. No more tiny microbubbles so I sealed it up. I finished it off with some good old fashinoned pump and dump bleeding just to make sure.

I did the back brakes which were a piece of cake compared to the clutch. Then went for a ride. I noticed the clutch starts to engage when the lever is about 1/2" off the bars. I'd say it's fully engaged when the lever is about 1 1/2" off the bars. Doesn't seem like a lot of play in there and its all right near the grip. This is with my lever adjuster on #1 which is furthest away from the grip. If I put my adjuster on #4 the clutch lever just barely has enough travel to disengage the clutch.

Just curious if the was normal with what others have found when switching over to a 14mm clutch master. Oh, and I added the DD mod too.

[one2dmax]

You will need to have the lever at the farthest reach to get enough travel to disengage fully. BUT, the upside is the lever effort should be reduced.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

You will need to have the lever at the farthest reach to get enough travel to disengage fully. BUT, the upside is the lever effort should be reduced.

I'd say its a bit harder to pull in now than it was before the DD and 14mm master. I'm guessing with the stocker it would take a lot more effort than it does now since I added the extra spring. I was just worried that I may not have completely bled the air out but from what you saying about having to have it adjusted out all the way, it sounds on par with what others are experiencing.

[gamorg02]

mine def isn't that close i'd say, but i'll double check. i did it like 4k miles ago and don't really 'think' about it.

i'd wanna say i'm like 1" - 2" from disengage to engage. i think i'm on #4 position. i'll get back to you bud!

[gamorg02]

mike, upon further inspection they're about the same as yours at the 4 position.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

Thanks Garrett. Were those masters set up with #1 position being the furthest away away from the grip or #4 being furthest away from the grip?

On mine, #1 position is as far away from the grip as you get. The higher the # the closer to the grip the lever gets. Mine doesn't feel right on any setting other than #1.

Other than it engaging really close to the bars, its working just fine. I can put it in gear and start it no problem. Shut the bike off, leave it in gear and pull in the clutch and move it around so I guess its all good. Once again, prolly just worrying about nothing.

[gamorg02]

#1 is as far away from the grip as it can be for me too..

u know what bugs me about these, is that there is no brakign power for the first 3/4-1" of travel of the lever. i hate it. but i found an '05 fjr sitting in a dealer showcase a while back and it felt the same way mine did....

still annoying going back and forth b/t the dirtbike which engages within 5mm.

[gamorg02]

hey mike, how far does ur brake lever travel before it starts engaging?

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

My brake master is stock.

[gamorg02]

okay so the free play before the brake engages is killing me. i hate it.... i have like 3/4" before it does anything... it pushes the plunger immediately, but i don't feel anything for the first 3/4". anyone see any problem in putting a washer or small nut in the 'cup' the plunger goes into so it 'preloads' it?

[vmax2extreme]

My brake master is stock.


I have the stock master and brake lever and with my R1 upgrade with SS lines, I only go at most 1/4 pull to stop on a dime!

[gamorg02]

once mine engages its great, stops awesome, i just don't want the 3/4" of free play. i don't see any reason i can't 'preload' the plunger, but didn't know if it was bad for the cylinder or whatnot. i wish i could tell for sure if there was no added pressure on the system.

[vmax2extreme]

Now if I can only get my rear brake pedal to work correctly! It takes alot of pressure to lockup even after a new SS line and flush.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

once mine engages its great, stops awesome, i just don't want the 3/4" of free play. i don't see any reason i can't 'preload' the plunger, but didn't know if it was bad for the cylinder or whatnot. i wish i could tell for sure if there was no added pressure on the system.

If its one of those things really bothering you, just give it a shot. Take the bike for a ride first and take note of the rotor temp and how everything is working. Then, get your front wheel off the ground and check how much drag you have before putting some kind of spacer in and check again. If its not dragging on the rotor, I'd go for a test ride and check to see if the rotor seems to be getting any hotter than before. Can't hurt to give it a shot

[gamorg02]

If its one of those things really bothering you, just give it a shot. Take the bike for a ride first and take note of the rotor temp and how everything is working. Then, get your front wheel off the ground and check how much drag you have before putting some kind of spacer in and check again. If its not dragging on the rotor, I'd go for a test ride and check to see if the rotor seems to be getting any hotter than before. Can't hurt to give it a shot

thanks mike i might give it a try. any idea on things to try? was thinking a small thick washer if i can find one, or a small nut..

[Redbone]

okay so the free play before the brake engages is killing me. i hate it.... i have like 3/4" before it does anything... it pushes the plunger immediately, but i don't feel anything for the first 3/4". anyone see any problem in putting a washer or small nut in the 'cup' the plunger goes into so it 'preloads' it?
I have the stock master cylinder as well and had the same issue. I had to keep trying to get all of the micro bubbles out of it, which took forever, but finally I have a short and firm lever pull that can produce lockup with two fingers. Make sure to tap the lines/ calipers/ master cyl to vibrate all the air out, I used the handle of my dead blow hammer for this purpose. It took a while to acheive.

[gamorg02]

i'm not convinced thats it, haven't seen a bubble in a while (can take a look again tho) but the FJRs i've seen at a shop have the same play.

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

thanks mike i might give it a try. any idea on things to try? was thinking a small thick washer if i can find one, or a small nut..

You think a nut would kind of chew up the little "cup" on the lever that the plunger goes into? Maybe some copper or brass washers would be good?

[gamorg02]

You think a nut would kind of chew up the little "cup" on the lever that the plunger goes into? Maybe some copper or brass washers would be good?

i like it. i'll swing by the hw store this weekend. i have spare levers (aftermarkets) i got for $30 for the set so i can use that one to try out and if it manges or does something weird, back goes to the OEM.