The FJR master cylinder for brakes & clutch

[firefly]

I already ordered the brake master cylinder of an FJR 03,
Does anyone have experience with this mod? what should I expect?
is it worth it?
Thanks.

[Buster Hymen]

I already ordered the brake master cylinder of an FJR 03,
Does anyone have experience with this mod? what should I expect?
is it worth it?
Thanks.

I don't have first hand experience with it, but everything I hear about it is great. You get a 14 mm resevoir, which looks like the stock one, for better braking and the lever is adjustable. I hear the clutch side is adjustable too so it is also a good mod. This is one mod I want to do. Where did you order it from and what is the price?

[firefly]

I don't have first hand experience with it, but everything I hear about it is great. You get a 14 mm resevoir, which looks like the stock one, for better braking and the lever is adjustable. I hear the clutch side is adjustable too so it is also a good mod. This is one mod I want to do. Where did you order it from and what is the price?

I ordered from Gary McCoy at university motors, the whole kit including the brake light switch is $149.00 including shipping and since my 03 calipers are 4 pot stock calipers I'll hold off getting the 4 pot R1 calipers until I see how the brakes will be, I like the fact that the lever is adjustable so a two finger braking is more effective.
Will keep everyone posted about the results of that mod.
the stock master cylinder is 16 mm bore and according to Don Old man a smaller bore makes the brakes feel more responsive and stronger, I initially thought that a bigger bore as in a 19 mm will give better braking power but I guess the opposite is true.

[Buster Hymen]

I ordered from Gary McCoy at university motors, the whole kit including the brake light switch is $149.00 including shipping and since my 03 calipers are 4 pot stock calipers I'll hold off getting the 4 pot R1 calipers until I see how the brakes will be, I like the fact that the lever is adjustable so a two finger braking is more effective.
Will keep everyone posted about the results of that mod.
the stock master cylinder is 16 mm bore and according to Don Old man a smaller bore makes the brakes feel more responsive and stronger, I initially thought that a bigger bore as in a 19 mm will give better braking power but I guess the opposite is true.
I thought the stock resevoir was 5/8 but no matter, you should like the difference in braking. That's a good price tto, I should give Gary a call. I have an 88 so I had the older 2 pot calipers but I made a bracket to mount 6 pot Tokicos and R1 discs. I'd like to go the final step with the lever/resevoir you ordered.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/Jumbalaya696969/VMax/P0000412.jpg

[firefly]

I thought the stock resevoir was 5/8 but no matter, you should like the difference in braking. That's a good price tto, I should give Gary a call. I have an 88 so I had the older 2 pot calipers but I made a bracket to mount 6 pot Tokicos and R1 discs. I'd like to go the final step with the lever/resevoir you ordered.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/Jumbalaya696969/VMax/P0000412.jpg

Buster you are right, the stock is 5/8th which is 19 mm, the FJR is 14 mm, I just received it and will install it today after I finish work man I hope it really makes a BIG difference, I checked ronayers for price and Gary McCoy sure has the best price. I'll keep you posted after I install it.
If everything goes well I'll order the clutch master cylinder to.
note: The FJR master cylinders are threaded for mirror installation up to 2003 after that they are NOT threaded.

[firefly]

I installed the 2003 FJR brake master cylinder, went for a test ride and I am so pleased with the result, I'd give it an A+++ it is touchy but not in a bad way I think it is more described as readily available from the first squeeze, more responsive and a great upgrade! the adjustable lever feature is a plus.
My bike is an 03 so it has 4 pot calipers, I also have SS Galfer lines and EBC HH pads, now I can confidently say I have great brakes!
FJR master with brake switch from Gary McCoy $149.00 including shipping.
I think I'll go for the clutch master later.
Note: after draining the system and installing the FJR master using a mity vac is a must to fill the lines with brake fluid even if you have speed bleeders, after the lines are full of fluid using the speed bleeders make the final bleeding very easy and any subsequent bleeding/flushing almost pleasurable.
Also note that the FJR masters up to 03 are threaded for the mirror but starting 04 it is not threaded.
The nice thing about getting it from Gary is that he knows exactly what is needed and the price is unbeatable.
If you are thinking of this mod DO IT!

[one2dmax]

The 04 and up masters are cheaper but you do have to do the work yourself. The clutch masters switch is different then the brake side and is not a simple plug in like the brake switch is. I haven't messed with mine yet to see what it is going to take but I think a simple plug in (if I can find the right end) splice into the factory set will take care of it.

The R1 calipers have different passeges internally and I feel give the last and best possible feel to the conversion. With my setup I am condifent that if the tire would stick enough I could "stoppie" the max pretty easily.

Sean Morley

[firefly]

It has been ~ a week since I installed the FJR brake master cylinder on my 03 max , It IS a significant improvement in braking power and it also looks much cleaner than the stock, much more responsive and could easily lock the front wheel if not careful. I might go for the R1 calipers when it is time to rebuild the stock calipers but for now I don't feel the need for stronger front brakes.
I would like to use a 4 pot rear brake caliper for the occasional 2 up riding.
does anyone know of a direct bolt on caliper that would fit without modification?
I'll definitely do the FJR clutch master to make things look symmetrical and I understand it makes the clutch lighter when installing the PCW spring.

[djmachinist]

How about a phone number or where is Gary McCoy
and University motors? What City and state. Any help
here would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Dale Jones
Vmoa 4034

[-Lee-]

How about a phone number or where is Gary McCoy
and University motors? What City and state. Any help
here would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Dale Jones
Vmoa 4034

University Motors
Fargo, ND
1-866-551-6478
Ask for Gary McCoy

I got this information off of the VMOA home page. He was also just voted Vendor of the year and had a big write-up in the latest V-Boost.

[gleno]

The 04 and up masters are cheaper but you do have to do the work yourself. The clutch masters switch is different then the brake side and is not a simple plug in like the brake switch is. I haven't messed with mine yet to see what it is going to take but I think a simple plug in (if I can find the right end) splice into the factory set will take care of it.

The R1 calipers have different passeges internally and I feel give the last and best possible feel to the conversion. With my setup I am condifent that if the tire would stick enough I could "stoppie" the max pretty easily.

Sean Morley

Hey Sean,

I have a tendon injury to my right hand and so I've been revisiting some of this material.

I have some questions you can probably answer.

1) FJR master cylinder requires less lever effort because the piston uses a 14mm bore (I think) i.e. more pressure on the brake caliper less effort at the lever.

Does the FJR clutch master work the same way:ummm:

2) What would be the going price for FJR clutch master and brake masters NEW and USED:ummm:

[one2dmax]

Pretty much near impossible to get them used and not sure what they would run. I believe it was about $360 for the brake and clutch masters complete with levers, clamps, misc, and switches.

We've had good luck with the swap too though really don't remember what the lever effort helped out with. I do know it's not as noticeable as the brake side but still better. However, you have to use the full throw of the handle (they are adjustable). I believe the bores are actually the same on the clutch side.

Sean

[RagingMain]

Hey Sean,

I have a tendon injury to my right hand and so I've been revisiting some of this material.

I have some questions you can probably answer.

1) FJR master cylinder requires less lever effort because the piston uses a 14mm bore (I think) i.e. more pressure on the brake caliper less effort at the lever.

Does the FJR clutch master work the same way:ummm:

2) What would be the going price for FJR clutch master and brake masters NEW and USED:ummm:

Hey Gleno
The clutch master has much less effort as well. I have the DD mod for the clutch and the FJR masters. It pulls like a standard spring. Much improved feel as well, very controllable.
Cheers

[Redbone]

Gleno, I think the FJR Brake and clutch masters are $3-400. On page 18 of Boxenstopp website (http://www.boxenstopp.us/Gateway.htm) he has "racing" brake and clutch (looks like nissan remote reservoir style) for $186 per side.
Hope this helps!

[RagingMain]

I paid a total of $360 for mine.
$160 for the brake
$200 for the clutch

as far as the clutch not being a plug and play on the wiring, I just start my bike in neutral at all times so I didnt worry about it.
Cheers

[PATMAX]

I did mine bass ackwards. I took possession of my bike with R-1 calipers/rotors already installed. It felt like I had cement in the brake lines and had almost zero modulation. Scary is a better word for it. I posted a want ad on VMOA and a member set me up with a like new master w/stainless lines. World of difference and looks very close to stock. Personally, I hate the round plastic resevoirs found on some sport bikes. A good upgrade and easy to boot. Lastly, you might consider going to silicone fluid as it will not tear up any paint should you have a spill or leak.

I write big so others do not have to read in green. PATMAX.:biglaugh:

[gleno]

I did mine bass ackwards. I took possession of my bike with R-1 calipers/rotors already installed. It felt like I had cement in the brake lines and had almost zero modulation. Scary is a better word for it. I posted a want ad on VMOA and a member set me up with a like new master w/stainless lines. World of difference and looks very close to stock. Personally, I hate the round plastic resevoirs found on some sport bikes. A good upgrade and easy to boot. Lastly, you might consider going to silicone fluid as it will not tear up any paint should you have a spill or leak.

I write big so others do not have to read in green. PATMAX.:biglaugh:


Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I need to relieve the stress on the tendon injury or ride less often (and that's not going to happen).

So I need to;

a) use masters which exert more clamping pressure at the caliper for the same or less effort than the lever.

b) bring the lever closer to the handlebar grip to reduce the reach to the lever. This would transfer the load from the affected ligaments in my fingers.

So,

1) It seems I should use the FJR masters and the off-set levers.

From what I've read here pre 2004 are plug and play and post '04 needs wiring mods but are there any differences to the hydraulics :ummm:

2) Silicon fluid:ummm: What is this stuff:ummm:
3) I'd like to chrome these units. How the heck do I get the fluid level window out off and then back into reservoir :ummm:

[naughtyG]

From what I've read here pre 2004 are plug and play and post '04 needs wiring mods but are there any differences to the hydraulics :ummm:


I thought they needed work such as the thread for the mirrors?


2) Silicon fluid:ummm: What is this stuff:ummm:


I wanna know about this too!

[one2dmax]

dot 5 is silicon fluid. Not compatable with dot 4 and lower. Also, not needed in about 99.9% of the cases.

Forget the chroming. I may have access on getting a window but don't hold your breath.

The newer masters just need to have the mirror boss drilled and tapped. They are quite a bit cheaper then the ones already drilled.

Sean

[ssnsltd]

Gleno: I have some significant nerve damage to my right (and left) hands. I put just the XJR master on my 90 (no caliper or disk upgrade) and it made a WORLD of difference. MUCH easier- I can pretty much put the bike up on the front wheel with 2 fingers. Got the master off eBay for ~$50. check the old threads for compatibility, there are several bikes masters (even some 650's) that are the same.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5126&highlight=master+cylinder

G: drilling for the mirror is easy enough if you have a $39 big lots/ harbor freight drill press, clamp(s), and tap. one simply uses 2 let hand mirrors. Took me about an hour to mod and mount it.

[gleno]

Gleno: I have some significant nerve damage to my right (and left) hands. I put just the XJR master on my 90 (no caliper or disk upgrade) and it made a WORLD of difference. MUCH easier- I can pretty much put the bike up on the front wheel with 2 fingers. Got the master off eBay for ~$50. check the old threads for compatibility, there are several bikes masters (even some 650's) that are the same.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5126&highlight=master+cylinder

G: drilling for the mirror is easy enough if you have a $39 big lots/ harbor freight drill press, clamp(s), and tap. one simply uses 2 let hand mirrors. Took me about an hour to mod and mount it.

Thanks for the feedback.:punk: If it means less load on the lever then that will help a lot.

[PATMAX]

Have any of you guys had a master cylinder cover or reservior start to lose the paint around the rubber gasket area? My Res covers are powdercoated and even they have peeled from regular brake fluid. Hope none of you with custom paint ever have a bleeding "Ooops". I'll never know more than Sean but I don't have worries with sillicon, have no performance issues and does not cost a ton to convert. You DO have thoroughly clean your system. Don't think of draining once and adding silicon based. A flush with a cleaner safe for rubber then a flush with silicon and then fill/bleed should convert it with no problems. Just another way to skin a cat. :banana:

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

Here is some updated info on FJR masters

FYI

16mm=0.629"
5/8"=0.625"
14mm=0.551"

Another FYI on FJR bore diameters:

03' thru 05' all have the same bore diameter in the clutch master. 14mm
03' is the ONLY year the FJR had a front brake master with 14mm bore
04'-05' FJR front brake masters are 15mm
04'-05' FJR front brake masters for ABS equipped bikes are 16mm.

I have a couple FJR brake masters off of the '05 with ABS. It is a 16mm bore which is basically the same as our 5/8" master so it won't offer a different feel in braking action BUT it does have a 5 position adjustable lever and the OE connectors for the brake switch plug right in. Actually, I have more than one if anyone is interested. Looking to get $70.00 shipped out of one.

They are currently NOT drilled and tapped for the stock vmax mirrors but the boss is there. I was planning to do so but tap it with regular threads vs. reverse threads. That way you could use any mirror you want without those ugly adaptors. If you wanted to use stock mirrors I could throw in a stem from a left mirror and then you'd be golden.

[coffee_brake]

So...if you used the front master from say, an R1 or FZ1, you'd get an increase in braking too?
But you would need a way to 1) mount the mirror and 2) secure the reservoir. Right?


'Cause R1 masters are lots more common than 14mm FJR masters, even if you count in the cost of a Yamaha mirror mount...

So would you get the same increase in braking power from the R1/FZ1 master?

[coffee_brake]

Hunh....this guy's offering new MC's, says they're 14mm bore. Wonder if they're junk?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FR-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-YAMAHA-MAXIM-XJ700-XJ750-XS750_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b9f1cb27QQitemZ 110493813543QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[one2dmax]

Be careful buying mastercylinder parts from the XJ/XS bikes as they have completely different handlebar angles and if they are made as a direct bolt on with the stock bars for those bikes will have it sitting at a far to great a lean angle for the vmax bars. Other then that it looks like a decent master.

Keep in mind that the master from the R1's (and other sportbikes) should work just fine but the clutch master from the FJR doesn't displace as much fluid so you have to use more lever travel to disengage it all the way. If you have smaller hands (or shorter fingers) you may not like having to have the lever all the way out for it to work well.

Sean

[mabdcmb@yahoo.com]

I have one set of FJR masters left. Front brake with 16mm bore. Clutch with 14mm bore. Both in good shape.

The brake master won't really make much of a difference (since its 16mm) but it does have an adjustable lever.

The clutch master will ease lever effort. So if you have a DD clutch or hand issues, this may help you with that. Adjustable, brand new OEM lever. As Sean mentioned, clutch engagement will happen further out than with the OEM setup but the lever pull will be lighter.