I replaced the caps and leads together first, and it did not solve the issue. It would still sputter and shut off when hot. The only difference was that the bike would get a little hotter before shutting off. I haven't had any issues after replacing the sparkplugs so I'd say they were the culprit.
UPDATE: I couldn't get a hold of any COPS, but I finally got some new caps and leads. I also changed the old sparkplugs out for the E3 replacements and that fixed the problem. I idled in traffic for 15+ minutes after already being at operating temp. The the temp gauge was sitting just below the...
It sounds like our problems are very similar. It would make sense seeing as how my charging voltages are good, but suddenly drop. I did a bit of searching and decided to get 7mm copper core wire along with the NGK Caps to see if it makes a difference before I get COPS. Also Sean Morley is out of...
It will usually crank normal after the "shutoff," and I can hear the cylinders firing. I didn't get a chance to test spark after the engine got hot. That'll be the next thing I test.
The fan runs pretty loud. I think it will be worth looking into. Because I went through the charging system and am currently getting 14v at idle and 14.5 at 2000 rpms. That is until the motor warms up and the fan kicks in. I did unplug the fan to see if that was the problem and it ran longer...
After doing some testing and looking around, I have a few observations.
1. The problems(drop in voltage and sputtering) occur when the cooling fan kicks on.
2. The pick up coil resistance was within the recommended range.
3. The primary and secondary omh readings on the rear ignition coils were...
It runs and idles normal without the choke. I can go and ride short distances without much worry as long as I'm not idling in place for an extended amount of time.
I have held the throttle down around 2500rpms to help combat the stall. It will keep it running, but not very well.
I haven't...