Recent content by N34stryker

Thanks for the help everyone. So I believe I did have it installed correctly. The brass colored barrel on the return doesn't go into anything. Maybe there was just too much slack in the cable and it was getting caught. I guess if it were hanging up on something that would explain never...

i appreciate the responses. I just don't know where the inside cable (the return cable I guess) attaches. I only saw one hole so the top cylinder isn't in anything and gets caught sometimes.

OK, so I had my Carbs rebuilt by dannymax, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where to install the throttle return cable. It has 2 little cylinders and I only see a place for one. By cylinder I am referring to the part that holds the cable in place. So that's how I installed it. Now...

How much for the scoops? Got any close up pics of them?

I want your wheels so badly, but my wife would have two very important things of mine in a jar above the sink.

OK, so was doing the peashooter method. Hose wasn't long enough so seafoam deep creep got all up it dat thang. Read that's probably bad. Anyway, I saw fuel was just flowing out of my 1 cyl. main jet air bleed. I can see the fuel pooling in the bottom where the other ones are dry. Any ideas...

Thanks for all of the tips. Whacking the carbs sounds like it will possibly help with my frustration as well as the stuck float. Also, when my air box is off and the bike is running, fuel seems to jump out of the number 2 carb. Squirts 6 to 8 inches into the air when i blip the throttle. Is...

Baytown Texas it is. I'll have to read up on the peashooter method. I was planning on rebuilding the carbs over the winter anyway. Was hoping to semi-limp it until then.

So I bought my bike used and it ran pretty damn well. Then I started tinkering... Actually I did the shot gun method because my bike started running like pooh; loss of power and backfires. So worked better after shotgun method. Then crap again. I noticed fuel filter was full of rust. Crap...

I would think 2in longer would be good. Mine have a little extra slop. I also used a couple washers on the inside of the bracket for each caliper mounting bolt to center the caliper over the rotors.

Emailed. If you are looking to upgrade I would definitely do it. Along with grinding a little off of the caliper I had to grind the bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel. I just held them with pliers and used a bench grinder. My wave rotors didn't have the recesses like the stock ones.

Here's my setup.

Lever feels great. Nice and firm, but progressive. Correctamundo on the early 2000s. I cleaned them and added sintered pads. You also have to use FJR 1300 rotors. Same bolt spacing, but 320mm. I'm using a stock, but new master. By the way, bleeding a motorcycle master cylinder seriously...

Dude, don't judge me ADD is a disease. Just kidding. Actually I counted the screwdriver edges on the handle so they were 1/12th of a turn. Regardless, I put them in and backed them out 2 and 1/4 full turns. Bike stumbled a little off idle. Turned another 1/4 and it seems OK. I haven't ridden...

Thanks for the quick reply. So now I'm an idiot for another reason. Finished the job.and bike idles awesomely and no popping on deceleration. However, my ADD (squirrel!) made me lose count on my first a/f screw. Seemed about the same as the front right. I got 63 1/8th turns. The opposite side...