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I am in Florida, and its rare that it gets below 70 even in the winter. I am having these cold start issues with an outside temperature of around 70 F.

For lack of anything else to do, i will check compression. However, I can't imagine its a compression issue given the fact that this bike only has 2500 miles on it.

I measured battery voltage while cranking at start up and it did drop, I have since charged the battery to fullcharge. Battery is only 6 months old. I ddon't see how its battery voltage dropping low during start up, because as soon as i add a shot of fuel to the air intake it starts right up...

Another update... Ok, so as I mentioned I checked the float bowl fuel levels and they all looked okay. I drained them all, I replaced the fuel filter, I did the Peashooter method, I ran two tanks through with Seafoam, I did the Shotgun carb cleaning method and I synched the carbs. The results...

I drained the float bowls and there was definitely gunk in there. I think you're right, the carbs need some more cleaning. On the plus side I checked the float fuel levels and they all looked pretty good, so the floats are not stuck. I'm going to clean the carbs again.

Thank you for those tips, much appreciated. To confirm, it says to blow compressed air down PAJ1 and PAJ2. And to spray carb cleaner down main jet air bleed and idle mixture screw opening. Is that correct?

Okay, thanks. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks, that is exactly what I am going to do. Would you agree that I should only shotgun the suspect carburetors? Also, when doing the shotgot what happens if I cant get the oring out from behind the idle mixture screw? After doing the shotgun, I will sync them. Also, is there an advantage or...

Update... So, I changed the plug on cylinder#2, which is the one that the pipe was running cool and still no change. When I pulled the plug that was in there the electrode was black and a little wet. Since I have not figured out the problem, I also decided to check all the cylinders for firing...

Matt, I certainly appreciate everyone's thoughts and comments. Sorting through it all is expected. I think I am going to change the plug and then try syncing the carbs and see where that leads. I like the point you made that way too lean would prevent that cylinder from firing, all air no gas...

Thanks, I'll let you know what I find.

True, thanks

I will change that plug for sure, thanks for the info.

Oops, i meant way to rich.

Okay, so I pulled the lead off that plug and I couldn't really tell a difference with it just idling. Should I ride it and see if I notice a difference with that lead off? I did check that there was spark from the lead by inserting a metal rid and holding it near the bike chassis. It was...

No, I have not yet synched them. My buddy has a vacuum gauge and is letting me borrow it this week. Will reportback once I have them all synched.

Great advice, I will definitely check if removing that plug changes anything. Thanks for the advice.

Hey, I would certainly appreciate any help. Feel free to call me at your convenience. My name is Bill and my number is 954-729-5541. Thanks

The choke lever is activating the plungers on all four carbs.

Any thoughts on what could be causing one to run much hotter than the other. For example, one I can't touch without getting burnt and the other one i can keep my hand on indefinitely. This is after the bike has been riden for over a half hour. I touch the header right near the exhaust manifold.