HD oiler question

ptnov · Jul 24, 2014

Hi

I'm trying to install the Sean's HD oiler kit. When I removed the clutch basket i saw that the gear already is yellowed plastic does this mean that the HD oiler kit already is installed. Also the orange o-ring has a black o-ring over it, and it is still unpopped.

Also how should i reuse the bendable tab that locked the 30mm nut? If so how do I install it? bend it after or before screwing the nut back in?

Here's a pic of my gear currently inside.

Here's a pic of the o-ring you can barely see the orange o-ring

Thanks!

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Jul 24, 2014

ptnov said:
Hi

I'm trying to install the Sean's HD oiler kit. When I removed the clutch basket i saw that the gear already is yellowed plastic does this mean that the HD oiler kit already is installed. Also the orange o-ring has a black o-ring over it, and it is still unpopped.

Also how should i reuse the bendable tab that locked the 30mm nut? If so how do I install it? bend it after or before screwing the nut back in?

Thanks!

The small yellow gear in your photo is driven off the clutch basket, it will remain in place. The large yellow gear is the driven oil pump gear, it will be re-installed also. You are changing the oil pump drive gear. It is not shown in your photo. It rides on the opposite end of the shaft that is driven by the clutch basket gear. If yours is stock, it will be metal.

I've reused the clutch lock washer without issue on many bikes. Install it flat and then bend one of the tabs against the nut after installation. I only replace them if it seems like one of the tabs is ready to crack. You don't want any metal pieces floating around in the oil

ptnov · Jul 24, 2014

[email protected] said:
The small yellow gear in your photo is driven off the clutch basket, it will remain in place. The large yellow gear is the driven oil pump gear, it will be re-installed also. You are changing the oil pump drive gear. It is not shown in your photo. It rides on the opposite end of the shaft that is driven by the clutch basket gear. If yours is stock, it will be metal.

I've reused the clutch lock washer without issue on many bikes. Install it flat and then bend one of the tabs against the nut after installation. I only replace them if it seems like one of the tabs is ready to crack. You don't want any metal pieces floating around in the oil

Ok! so I have to keep digging in the clutch.

What kind of tool do you use to bend the tab? I used a punch to open it, but i can't punch it back..

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Jul 24, 2014

You should not need to "dig into the clutch" any more than you have. You need to remove the oil pipes on the bottom of the engine. Then you have to remove the oil pump.

Once the pump is out, you will see the drive gear that needs replaced. To remove that gear, you need a set of 90 degree snap ring pliers.

I just a pair of "channel lock" pliers to start bending the clutch lock washer. Once side of the pliers on the clutch nut, the other side on the washer. Squeeze and it will start to bend. Once its bent a little bit I use a hammer and punch to flatten it against the nut.

ptnov · Jul 24, 2014

alright I'll look into that tomorrow. Is there anything holding the oil pipes or do you just pull it out?

PATMAX · Jul 24, 2014

You gotta wiggle it but follow the bracket it is welded to. There is a bolt head that is holding her down or up or on, however you are looking at it. You do have a manual don't you?!

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Jul 24, 2014

Yes, there are bolts holding the oil pipe assembly to the block.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

veebooster · Jul 25, 2014

The "oring" pipe will come out with the oil pump. The black puck on the bottom of it is what keeps the pipe/oring in place via pressure from the oil pan when bolted up. The other oil pipes I just loosened to get the pump out.

Dale

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Jul 25, 2014

veebooster said:
The "oring" pipe will come out with the oil pump. The black puck on the bottom of it is what keeps the pipe/oring in place via pressure from the oil pan when bolted up. The other oil pipes I just loosened to get the pump out.

Dale

The pipe with the "dreaded orange o-ring" is not attached to the pump. It attaches to the oil pipe system that bolts to the block.

Here is a photo. The orange ring was replaced with a black one though.

And another that shows the layout a little better

ptnov · Jul 25, 2014

Do you have to use any other gasketing besides the supplied gaskets for clutch and oil pan or are they enough?

davesax36 · Jul 25, 2014

one factory gasket for each is enough.

veebooster · Jul 25, 2014

[email protected] said:
The pipe with the "dreaded orange o-ring" is not attached to the pump. It attaches to the oil pipe system that bolts to the block.

Here is a photo. The orange ring was replaced with a black one though.

And another that shows the layout a little better

You are correct....its been a bit since i did it. Great pics!

Redbone · Jul 25, 2014

PCW does their bracket a little differently, notice no rubber bump pad needed. Also, I think the oil pickup is shimmed to ride lower in the oil pan.
Here is a pic of mine:

ptnov · Jul 25, 2014

I Just stripped one of the 3 oil pump screw holes. Will loctite be enough to hold these screws in? It it fingertight atm.

johnblaid · Jul 25, 2014

Good GOD. Be careful when you remove that inner oil pump drive gear. You could lose the snap ring or the washer like I did. stuff everything with cloth and make sure you have the correct washer. There are two in the kit and only one will fit the oil pump drive shaft. The other one is a shim for the oil pump relief valve spring.

ptnov · Jul 25, 2014

johnblaid said:
Good GOD. Be careful when you remove that inner oil pump drive gear. You could lose the snap ring or the washer like I did. stuff everything with cloth and make sure you have the correct washer. There are two in the kit and only one will fit the oil pump drive shaft. The other one is a shim for the oil pump relief valve spring.

Did that! I used a short 45 degree expandable plier and corrected the snapring with a screwdriver.

Any of u guys know if it's safe to lock a stripped thread for the oil pump with loctite? Only the top 4 threads was stripped and it's in little more than fingertight...

veebooster · Jul 25, 2014

Can you run a tap through it to clean up the trhreads?

ptnov · Jul 25, 2014

veebooster said:
Can you run a tap through it to clean up the trhreads?

The threads came out with the screw. Can a tap make the same size screw fit or only bigger screws?

It's now locked in with loctite 243. It's supposed to be oil tolerant. Not sure if it'll do though. I'm gonna try to confirm that it works or find another way to fix it before putting back the oil pan.

mabdcmb@yahoo.com · Jul 25, 2014

If you only pulled out the last few threads I would think it's fine. You can try and see if a longer bolt will fit in there and torque to spec.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

one2dmax · Jul 25, 2014

get some longer bolts. there is enough room for that next size. fastenal or hardware store. 6mm x 1.0 pitch

HD oiler question

Help Support VMAX Forum:

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Moderator

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!