hd oiler fun

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I'll have to remember to sand the inside just a little bit before we send these kits out. I do test fit them but some are pretty firm on there. Thought that would be better so it wouldn't pop off while trying to put the clip back on.
 
Wasn't too bad. Spent about 1 minute filing it to get it to fit. If I would have checked it first, I may have avoided all of my headache. Oh well.
Thank you guys for the interest and words of encouragement. Still need to shim the spring and put it all back together. Probably could have yanked the engine, shook it around, found the washer, and had the engine back in with the time I spent poking around.
 
Did anyone ever come up with a procedure for this? Like something to stick in the how to section?
 
Ok. Job is complete. I have a question about the method used to overdrive the oil pump. The kits currently available require the installer to remove the clutch cover, clutch, oil pan, oil pump, cir - clip and drive gear. The cir-clip is extremely difficult to remove with the engine assembled and even more so with the engine in the frame working underneath the bike with oil dripping on your face. Then you must grind out sections of the oil pan and baffles because the gear you replace requires a spacer being placed between the case and oil pump which causes the oil pump to sit lower.

WHY NOT JUST REPLACE THE DRIVE GEAR ON THE BACK OF THE CLUTCH BASKET AND THE DRIVEN GEAR BEHIND THE CLUTCH BASKET??????! WTF?

This would eliminate an enormous amount of headache. No spacer for the oil pump. No grinding the oil pan and baffles. No fighting with a cir-clip that is nearly inaccessible on your back on a oil coated floor with a huge possibility of losing the clip and/or new washer supplied with the kit into the deepest recesses of the engine. Hell, dropping the pan wouldn't be required at all if you weren't interested in shimming the pressure relief spring.
Ok, you still need to drop the pan to upgrade the orange o-ring that is most assuredly popped out of place and pissing away your oil pressure, but some of us (like me) already replaced said o-ring with the kawasaki part.

Am I missing something here? Is there a reason it is not done as I suggested?
 
You had to grind the oil pan and baffle? I didnt have to do that on mine when i did it...
 
You don't have to grind the pan. It will preload against the oil pump pickup and be pulled into place with the bolts.
 
Well shit. I could not get the pan to sit flat. No matter what I tried, it wouldn't sit flat. Fucked around with it for about a half hour. I didn't want to try and tighten the bolts for fear of punching a hole in the pan with whatever was keeping it from sitting flat. After I ground the casting webs and baffles as shown in the pcw instructions, it finally sat flat.
 
The kit from PCW requires pan modification. Sean:s kit did not. My installs went smooth, BUT I;ve had my own horror shows. like a cam tool that snapped and went down the chain hole and hid in the weirdest place. Of course I should have had a rag in there just in case. There was an instance years ago where a group of vmax:ers
flipped a bike over and shook a dropped shim out.
 
A good pair of snap ring pliers made all the difference for me.

I found it tough to get the oil pipe back up in the block with the new O ring. Other than that, it was a pretty easy project for me. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
 
The kit from PCW requires pan modification. Sean:s kit did not. My installs went smooth, BUT I;ve had my own horror shows. like a cam tool that snapped and went down the chain hole and hid in the weirdest place. Of course I should have had a rag in there just in case. There was an instance years ago where a group of vmax:ers
flipped a bike over and shook a dropped shim out.
I've had to flip a snowmobile over once for a similar reason ! thought I was the only one dumb enough to have to do that LOL !
 

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