Early signs of clutch slip

I recently replaced the master cylinder covers with chrome ones. First attempt, the clutch master leaked. I took it off, cleaned the rubber gasket and master sealing surface. I'm pretty sure I over filled it because a little fluid leaked out the side where the little notch is for a few rides.
I'm not sure if it's related, but around the same time the master was over filled, I dropped back to 2nd from 4th, slammed it in 3rd just after boost kicked in and the clutch spun. I went out on the highway after this happened to see if it slipped at high speed in 5th. Riding up the on-ramp I was behind a slow car ridding in 2nd just waiting for the chance to pass. I went around the car WOT in second right to 9 grand, and then it revved past 9500 with no acceleration. WTF... that's weird. I slowed down when I had some open road, tried it in 2nd again. Did the same thing in 2nd and 3rd WOT once it hit 9000. I figured maybe the clutch is showing its first sign of worn out. I had a fast ride on the highway today. 100+ mph for about 10 min. Didn't feel like the clutch was slipping, but the revs seemed a bit high. Looks to me 120mph would put me past redline. I actually haven't had the bike past 110mph for this reason.
Anyone ever have their clutch slip because of over filled master? Whats your rpm at 60mph?
btw... bike is a '98 with 22000 miles. Motor has been pulled by PO, possible tranny work.

I have had my bike close to 140 & didn't look at my tach. That's asking for trouble

i would think the master overflow is coincidence.

22k miles isn't uncommon for a clutch. i saw slipage when the cold weather hit at like 18k.

lots of options. if it was me i'd do a PCW spring and new fibers with new (or blasted) steels. Morley has blasted steels on exchange.

Yep....since it does sound like the clutch, why not upgrade at the same time? PCW...DD Mod..there are several good choices for upgrades.

Not related. The symptoms you describe certainly sound like clutch slip.
Early signs are most noticeable in higher gears at 4000rpm up and rolling into the throttle. The engine is near its torque peak and the tranny is at its least multiplication. This puts more load on the clutch than anywhere else.


Chrome covers?
Check this, I got a set from cycle one off, they leaked too. I compared them to the stock covers and discovered that the inner raised ridge/lip that is that is cast into the stockers and designed to keep the rubber gasket in place is left off the aftermarket covers.
Essentially making them junk since its almost impossible to tighten them down and not have the gasket just move toward the center and float on top of the fluid instead of staying at the outer perimeter of the reservoir.

I talked to Tom about this, he admitted its a problem but did not offer a resolution (I didn't ask for one either since I already came up with a fix before I called him, but the fact he didn't offer one kind of disappointed me)

The resolution?

I took some thin plastic sheet ( the sidewall from an "organizer bin")
And a Dremel and shaped a piece for each reservoir to fit precisely inside the raised edge of the gasket and kept it pushed out to the edges of the reservoir where it belongs.

I used that raised lip/ridge in the stockers as a template.

They haven't leaked since.

I think redline in 5th comes at around 150

The only reason for looking at the tach at high speed, was to see if the clutch might be slipping. Seems to me that the Max struggles (for a muscle bike) over 100mph. I thought it would accelerate faster. Maybe the clutch is slipping just a little at higher speeds? Seems like I need a lot of road to reach 120.

I already emailed PCW. HD Spring $65 shipped to my door in Canada. That's cheaper than stock. Local dealer wants $91 for a new oem spring! Ordering HD spring from PCW and new fibers with gasket from dealer tomorrow. I'm only upgrading the spring, will leave the clutch boss alone. I want to keep smoother shifts for riding 2 up with the wife. Might as well do the clutch now. The local (120 miles away) dragstrip finally opens this weekend! I plan on making a few passes this summer.

Believe me the clutch isn't hard to do. Did my first one just a couple of months ago. Turned out great!!!

All of the information that you need is right here on the forum.

Traumahawk said:

Believe me the clutch isn't hard to do. Did my first one just a couple of months ago. Turned out great!!!

All of the information that you need is right here on the forum.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I never replaced a clutch before, but have read many threads about it. One question... Do I need to bleed the clutch? Or anything related to clutch fluid?

Well I did after replacing everything, just to make certain that I had good fresh fluid to go with a rebuilt clutch.

Bleed the clutch? Yes, good idea,

But doing a clutch job doesn't involve breaking the lines loose so you don't HAVE to if you don't want to.

If the fluid was overfilled when cold, then it warmed up, especially if there's any moisture in the fluid, then the expansion of the fluid in the master cylinder can put pressure on the system. It's not likely to put enough on this system to make it slip, but I've seen it lock brakes up on cars. Of course you get a lot more heat from brakes. Just FYI.

couple things on the clutch:

1. Morley might have fibers and blasted steels in stock for cheaper than your dealer.

2. walk through: http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

gamorg02 said:

couple things on the clutch:

1. Morley might have fibers and blasted steels in stock for cheaper than your dealer.

2. walk through: http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Click to expand...

Thanks. That's a good read with pics. I live in eastern Canada, so I would think shipping will cost me if I order from Morley. Friction plates are under 15 bucks at dealer here. Heading to dealer now to order fibers and gasket. Waiting to here back from PCW about payment.:biglaugh:

How long should I soak the friction plates? Over night? Or soak just before I start taking things apart?

I didn't soak mine...I just made certain that there was quite a bit of oil on them and between them, so there wouldn't be premature wear upon start up.

Traumahawk said:

I didn't soak mine...I just made certain that there was quite a bit of oil on them and between them, so there wouldn't be premature wear upon start up.

Click to expand...

Same here. I just start soaking mine while I'm pulling the old ones out, so not long at all.

I've also gotten by just fine simply hitting the steels with emery cloth, either by hand or with a drill mounted "flapper wheel"

Big thanks to everyone for giving good tips!:eusa_dance: PCW spring, and new fibers are ordered. Anyone have a good tip on best way to break the cover loose?

I undid all of the bolts...and then tapped it on the side with a rubber mallet until it popped loose.

I finally had time to replace the clutch. Wasn't difficult at all. I did find out the hard way that my torque wrench no longer works:damn angry:. I was waiting for a "click", but instead I heard a "snap"! I snapped a bolt tightening the clutch spring! Lucky for me it never completely cracked off. I managed to get it unscrewed.
Thanks again to everyone who gave their 2 cents:clapping:.
The PCW spring feels nice, although I could feel the difference holding the clutch lever in at a stop light. Can't wait to take it to the drag strip!

Glad you finally got I done!

Those bolts are REALLY soft, I don't know why they even give a torque value on them. I thinks it's as low as the cover bolt torque, very low inch lbs and the rare TQ wrench that will even dial that low.

Firmly hand tight with is what I do.