Barnett conversion

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Yes, you can replace the 1/2 Friction plate, clutch boss spring, seat plate and retaining wire (clutch boss ring) with a full size friction plate.
The parts (# 4, 5, 6 & 7) are shown on Page 26 in this Microfiche:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55030067/1996-2007_VMax_Part_Numbers.pdf
These Guides will help also:
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm
http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/double-d.htm

That's how I have mine setup now.
I originally just added the Barnett Spring Conversion plate.
Later I added the Full Friction plate because I burnt up a few friction plates doing a burnout (with a Shinko on the back) and decided I'd try it out.
Honestly the only difference I noticed was that the shifting isn't quite as smooth as it was with the 1/2 Plate in.

PS
The Only real tip is to make sure the Barnett clutch plate is aligned properly so it's tight against the friction plate behind it.
If it doesn't engage, pull it off and turn it slightly until it aligns properly.
Mine did that when I first installed it, I pulled the clutch cover back off and turned it until it was tight to the friction plate and it works great now.
Also the bolts just get hand snugged just like you would with the stock clutch.
The washers are flush or just past flush with the Barnett plate (so the springs won't hang up on the plate) if I remember correctly.
If you over tighten them you will also have issues with clutch engagement/disengagement.

I attached pictures of what it should look like (These pictures are from a Yami Warrior but it's the same Clutch Kit as used on a Vmax).
 

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Thanks Dman did you use locktite on those bolts and how tight do they need to be I heard its easy to fuck up at that point I got the tool to hold the basket
 
I used a dab of blue Loctite and only tightened them hand tight.
You just need to male sure the springs/washers are in past the clutch plate so they don't hang up on it.
Look at the pictures I posted.
 
You can also think about changing the springs to a higher weight. I think the kit comes with gold. I used 82 or 87#...the green springs and I like it. red is 90s less than 100# off of the top of my head. Just more food for thought.
 
I keep debating to change up my DoubleD setup to a barnett or PCW with heavy duty springs....

All you need now Dman is an OTEC clear casing to show it off now!

picture.php
 
Check service manual. IIRC its 6 or 10Nm for those 6 bolts. Hey Leroy do you have any extra set of those heavier springs?
 
You can also think about changing the springs to a higher weight. I think the kit comes with gold. I used 82 or 87#...the green springs and I like it. red is 90s less than 100# off of the top of my head. Just more food for thought.
Here's the Barnett Spring Info:
Part Numbers from Barnett - May 2010:
501-63-06014 (MT-14-6) = Steel 63 lb at 1-inch
501-75-06005 (MT-5-6) = gold 75 lb at 1-inch (Default spring)
501-82-06023 (MT-23-6) = green 82 lb at 1-inch
501-99-06091 (MT-91-6014) = red 99 lb at 1-inch
Reading the Part Number, they explained:
Tension number are per spring.
The middle two numbers are the spring tension at 1-inch compression.
The last two numbers are used for their 'MT' number.
The 99-pound springs are usually 100-pounds due to manufacturing tolerance.
A few (lesser-tension?) springs are rated at 1.5 or 2-inch compression. Not these.

I used the Gold Springs (which are supposed to be 25% (or so) stiffer than the Stock Vmax Diaphragm Spring, but you're right the Green Springs work well if you want a bit more grab.

I keep debating to change up my DoubleD setup to a barnett or PCW with heavy duty springs....

All you need now Dman is an OTEC clear casing to show it off now!
Yeah, the clear cover does look good.
 

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