Adjusting the valves

Ok, somewhere I read that valve adjustment should be done every 14-16k miles or so. I'm currently a bit over 17k miles and my engine has some noise that I could easily attribute to the valves.

So, since my mornic arse hasn't picked up a Clymer manual yet, does anyone have a PDF or site that details a valve adjustment for the max?

Just for giggles I e-mailed local Yamaha dealer for a quote on the work and about shat myself. They quoted me roughly $450 for a valve adjustment and replacement of the valve cover seals (cover seals accounted for about $60 of the total quote).

Now I know the working space is a bit tight, but damn. An maybe I'm wrong and thats a fair price. However, being a guy that learned to repair my cars rather then pay to have them repaired, no reason I can't learn with the bike as well.

So, anyone have some detailes info, or should I just "go fish" and pickup the manual before attempting this. I plan on getting the manual anyway, but still, wouldn't mind moving on the adjustment by next weekend if possible.

Thanks.

The Mod of this forum (Sean) rebuilds VMax motors, so I'm sure he'll post everything you need to know about valve adjustments shortly.

I would do it yourself, pick up a Clymer and read up on it. Once you're comfortable with the procedure, give me a shout as I have notes from when I did mine. Totalk cost about about $30 for the Yamaha valve tool and $40 for the gaskets. I also bought some pick tools used to get the shims out. I also bought a small telescoping magnet. To turn the crank, you'll need a 32mm socket. Just remove the inner stator cover held on by two allen bolts on the left side.

You'll need to drain the coolant, disconnect the fuel pump, remove the top and side covers, airbox, carbs, detach vboost control cable from motor, front and rear heat shields, coolant conduit heat shield, right electrical heat shield and the radiator mounts. Just have the radiator hang down. This allows easy access to the front valves.

Evenly loosen the 16 bolts holding the covers on. Use the criss-cross method.

To clean the gasket surfaces, spray a gasket remover on a rag and go over all surfaces. FOr the new gaskets, use permatex blue gasket maker. The onlhy purpose is to hold the gaskets in place on the valve covers. Let it dry for 15-20 minutes. While that's drying, I clean the gasket surfaces.

Also, stuff a lint-free rag down each cam chain tunnel to prevent any objects from falling down there.

Make sure all the intake valves are the same. Same with the exhaust valves. I set my intakes to a tight .006 inches and my exhaust valves to a loose .011 inches.

Call around to local motorcycle shops to see if they trade shims. You need shims with a 25 mm diameter.

My email is [email protected]. Give me a shout if you need any help. But, once again get the Clymer. ALMOST everything is in there.

Wow, lots more to tear off then I expected. Thats cool though.

Since I'll have to tear it down so far, any other things I should check/replace while I'm in there. Seems that this adjustment requires the replacement of the shims.

I just recently replaced the carb to manifold seals. Front to rear manifold seals are in great shape.

Thanks for all the info, looks like I'll be ordering the clymer sooner then I thought.

While there, you might as well check the float level of the carbs while they're off. I bought a cheap TV tray and used a level to make sure they're level. I used an aux. fuel tank from denniskirk.com to feed fuel.

Also, check the vboost adjustment plus sync using procedures in Clymer. Also, turn the key on and let the vboost open but turn key off before it cycles closed. Now, stick your forefingers, one on each side. Make sure the valve is straight across indicating full open. If not, loosen locking screw on cable junction box and adjust as necessary. If you don't feel a big kick in the pants at 6000 rpm, it probably isn't opening all the way or is opening past the full open point.

Take care!

Very good summary Mark. We typically do the adjustments while the engine is out which is obviously easier. Even getting the covers off can be tough.

We like to set all the lash measurements to the minimum spec which actually gives more effective lift and the peak power.

Typically as the valves wears into the seat we have found the clearance is reduced and usually has less noise. This is not always the case but is normal.

15xxx miles is fine to check them but you can generally go farther intervals after the first time.

Good luck and happy riding.

Sean Morley

Great info, thanks to all of ya. I'm awaiting the delivery of my clymer and then we'll see what kind of time I get scrounge to do the job.

Thanks for all the good info.