1st clutch change

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OK.. feeling pretty beat up here so take it easy on ME.. took out my clutch using the Lvlhead into the clutch guide and for some reason I cant get the 1st plates back in so the wire fits.. yes I looked at the images and read and re-read... but seems that the gremlins struck and I cant get things back.. I did notice the push rod is sticking out further than I left it so does that need to go back all the way in? I tried to push but it didnt move.. push harder??
I have done other easy jobs, worked on 2 stoke engines from the bottom up.. so not that much of a newbie so see my frustration?..
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Thanks in advance and if sounds like I am whining sorry been a long day and after a long winter here in Indiana I JUST NEED TO RIDE my bike...
 
Post a couple pics. You'll get a quick diagnosis from that. If the rod will not push back in, go get a guitar string (E or B) and search around in the bottom of your reservoir for the dimple that looks like someone started to drill a hole. Cover your bikes (and head) with towels and see if that tiny port isn't clogged. That might release the rod and allow you to complete the install. I can't comment on the plates not fitting as I have the PCW kit so I didn't reuse the wire.
 
I'm wondering if you pulled the clutch lever after you had the clutch taken all apart? If so, it will move the lever out, and you CANT push it back in...(dont ask me how I know...) The simplest thing to do is to crack the clutch bleed valve open, and that will relieve pressure off of the system.
 
I know that I didn't.. I just came home and got it to go back in so I started to put the first 4 plates in and then the wire back in and had to stop.. for a bit . Thanks again for the advice. Tim



QUOTE=Traumahawk;359746]I'm wondering if you pulled the clutch lever after you had the clutch taken all apart? If so, it will move the lever out, and you CANT push it back in...(dont ask me how I know...) The simplest thing to do is to crack the clutch bleed valve open, and that will relieve pressure off of the system.[/QUOTE]
 
Do you have right plate there? Its like a half plate that goes in before that wire, I did mine with eight full discs so I threw that half-disc and wire to bin. If you have right parts, then you should try to open that bleeder, might do the trick.
 
I have the DD mod...and didnt reuse the wire either. I know of people that have replaced the half disc with a full disc, didnt reuse the wire, but only used 1 stock spring, that way the clutch pull wasnt that bad.
 
I finally got free (grandkids here) and went out and it all went back in.
When you say clutch springs.. its the first 2 metal ones right?? I took it all out and in order put it together outside the bike and started putting it in .. its the 2 two metal and the half then metal plate then the wire. I got it in with no issues.. the bolt in the middle went back in.. not fully but I just pushed it in.
I had just came in to look at the process again online and headed back out to reassemble . My other question's is the plates have go back in but my clutch basket does not have the 2 dots on the face like it shows on the breakdown tutorial. I did find 2 dots on top of one of the " fingers" that stick straight out of the clutch basket. And I read that they all have to go in.. either I'm really tired or they all look the same. Thanks for taking the time.. it makes all the difference to me and I do appreciate it. Tim
 
Here is a pic of a Vmax clutch spring....and at the top of each fiber disk you will find 2 half moons, and at 180 degrees out, you will find 1 half moon. The 2 half moons line up with the 2 "dots" on one of the fingers of the clutch basket. You can see it, on the full size disk on the right.

Hope this makes it more clear.
 

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yep.. That clears it up.
I saw on the metal plates the rounded edges vs. the squared.. that was were I was confused.
I just put all the disks in and calling quits for the night.. have to be on the road in a few hours.. killing me but have to wait until tomorrow night or Sat. morning... Thanks. Tim
 
Here are 2 close-up shots of the 2 Dots on the clutch basket and the tabs on the Friction plates lined up.
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I'm guessing that since I put it together and it still slips the reason is I did not find those dots... just took it out and it still slips... I guess that I should have looked harder.. putting it up on a lift this time. Thanks..
 
Does the clutch slip all the time or at specific times i.e. after the bike warms up? I also replaced my clutch and upgraded to the Barnett pressure plate and after getting it back running my clutch would slip when the bike warmed up. Wound up being the small hole in the master cylinder was clogged. Drove me insane until I learned that, wound up replacing all the fiber and metal plates, the slave cylinder and finally rebuilt the master cylinder, now she works great.
 
I could tell right away and especially in 4/5th gear... just got it all back apart. and looking for those 2 marks and I am not seeing them where they are shown in all the photos... but headed back to look after I had looked at pictures again. Thanks, TIM
 
I'm still voting for a slightly clogged pinhole in the bottom of the master cylinder. You might be surprised how little it takes to clog them and make things terrible. I bled mine twice and replaced the clutch spring and friction plates before I poked into the little hole with a violin string. Cover your stuff with towels, though. You'll be surprised at the pressure release.
 
just put it all back together and started it up and could let out the clutch and the bike would just barely want to move.. worse than before.. before I could ride and it would be ok until it warmed up and slipped in 4/5th gear until the last few times I rode in late fall.. went for a ride and was ok starting out. Stopped to top off the tank and could not move...
I pulled the master cylinder cover off and found black crap and what used to be fluid.. smelled like a 3 day old diaper left in the sun... so I am probed the little holes and nothing so far, all I had was a pick, getting a steel leader from the tackle box and headed out. Read some post related to this and sounds like I have some other issues:ummm: going to fill it up with fresh fluid and crack the bleeder after I probe the holes.. Let you know in a bit or I may just crack a few bottle caps and stare at...:damn angry: All and any help is appreciated. Thanks , TIM
 
Well things change quickly! cleaned the crud out and bled out the old carefully filled it back up and just went for a ride...pulls better than when I bought it last year. AGAIN Thanks for all the help guys. used to be on this list with my last 2 max's and always a good time to talk with and hopefully meet some. Hope to return the favor and soon, not sure how but would love to. TIM
 
finally, after all the :damn angry: . I did not ride only a couple of miles but could tell right away that it was better. Now on the the next thing... posting that somewhere else.. vboost.
 

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