Solid Motor Mount Install

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WVxNitemare

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Location
Mount Pearl, Newfoundland
1) Place bike on center stand. Remove tank cover, remove scoops Using large phillips screwdriver,
unloosen the 3 screws on the black plastic plate on left side that holds the relays and module and let it
hang down.
fig1u.jpg

On the right side, remove screws that hold the radiator cap and hose joint. Pull assembly out slightly.
fig2.jpg

Remove screws from top of airbox, remove top
fig3l.jpg

unloosen phillips screws in clamps (under air box)on top of carb throats
fig4.jpg

Pull entire airbox up and out (you may want to cover the carbs with something to keep stuff from falling into them, I did not as my garage is completely secure from prying people)
fig5.jpg

. ALSO LOOSEN TOP BANDS UNDER ALL 4 CARBS.

2) Remove rear brake lever and right foot peg
fig6d.jpg

, unloosen and remove 10 mm bolt holding engine ground wire (next to oil filler cap).
fig7.jpg



3) Remove plastic side pieces on each side of radiator remove 10mm bolts on each side of radiator and pull
forward.
fig8.jpg



4) Remove License plate and bolts holding brake caliper. Remove cotter pin on rear axle and axle nut, pull
rear axle out on right side(take notice where the washer is on the right side by brake arm bracket) Pull brake
assembly arm up near fender, pull rear wheel off to the right and out the back. Pull brake line out from holders
on swingarm.
fig9.jpg

fig10.jpg

You should have a bunch of parts so far like this
fig11.jpg


5) If you do not have the stock exhaust, remove complete exhaust system using the appropriate steps and then
go to step 6. For stock exhaust, remove chrome exhaust guard on rear pipes from right side and both rear chrome
exhaust covers from rear pipes.
fig12.jpg

From under bike, unloosen all 4 bands connecting 4 pipes to mufflers. Remove bolts
from each side of mufflers (near rear foot pegs). Remove bolt from under bike in the center right under fender.
Grab both mufflers from rear and move up and down, back and forth, side to side and pull out towards rear
(much easier said than done).
fig13s.jpg


fig14.jpg


5a) Remove the bands holding the rear exhaust pipes to the rear heads and pull pipes down and out bottom of bike.
fig15.jpg


Remove 4 allen nuts from front pipe exhaust studs, front pipes will come off as one piece.
fig16.jpg

PUT ALL PARTS AND
PIPES ON SIDE OF BIKE THEY WERE TAKEN OFF OF.
fig17.jpg





6) Pry chrome caps off each side of swing arm, remove nuts,using allen wrench back out threaded pins. HOLD OR
PUT SOMETHING (WOOD or RAGS ) UNDER SWINGARM because swing arm is going to fall right out. Remove
rubber boot from around U-joint.
fig18.jpg


fig19.jpg


7) If you have the Yamaha engine guards remove them.

8) Place a hydraulic jack near center, front of underneath of engine block Make sure jack is on flat surface of bottom of
block. Raise level so it just touches surface slightly. The idea here is to just relieve a little of the engine block weight off
mounting bolts, if entire bike raises up its too much pressure. WARNING!!! If you raise the bike\motor too much it will
fall off the center stand. If you have the ability to tie a rope to the handle bars and to something above....do it!!

9) Remove the large allen head bolt on right side of frame near radiator on frame down tube.
fig20.jpg

fig21.jpg

Place another jack towards
rear of block on right side, raise just enough for support of the engine block like the other jack. Remove right rear motor
mount bolt. This will allow frame down tube to be removed.

MOTOR MOUNT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION


**4 of the new mounts will have a smaller diameter bolt hole These are for the front. The larger diameter holes are for the
rear 2 mounts**

10) Remove right front lower mount bolt. Twist and pull out rubber mount. Replace with a new solid mount and replace bolt.
Do not tighten yet.

11) On the left side of frame, remove acorn nut You may need to hold rod on inside with 12 mm wrench. Unloosen the two10mm
bolts on upper triangular shaped bracket and remove bracket. Unloosen and remove lower left mount bolt.

12) Unloosen lower bracket bolts,do not remove. Twist and pull out lower left rubber mount, replace with a solid mount and
replace bolt. Snug but do not tighten yet.

13) Remove acorn nut on upper front right mount. You may have to hold rod on the inside of the mount with a 12mm wrench to
keep from turning. Repeat for left mount. Twist mounts back and forth. Remove rod and do not replace new solid mounts yet.

14) Move jack from front around to under rear left mount or as close to rear left as possible, raise jack just a little to take
weight off rear bolt and remove bolt. Now engine is only supported by jacks in the rear and the one left lower front mount.

15) Use a pry bar to help move the engine around!! Slowly raise jack up, watch U-joint it will need to be turned so it hits the
gas tank at an angle that will allow engine to be raised enough to pull old mount out. You may need to remove the U-joint, I did
not. Also watch carb assembly it will move around when hitting upper frame. You may have to remove, again I did not. Once
you clear the tab on frame, twist out old mount and replace with solid mount. On right rear side, move one of the jacks or use
another one to raise this side. AGAIN WATCH U-JOINT,CARBS AND RADIATOR HOSE ABOVE CARBS ON RIGHT SIDE
. It takes some jacking up and down and watching everything all at once but it all moved up just enough for me to just barely
get the 2 rubber rear mounts pulled out and the new solid ones installed. SLOWLY LOWER JACK until holes in frame tabs
are aligned. Replace left rear mount bolt and snug up.

16) Slide in upper front mount on right,slide in rod from left side. Install upper left mount. Replace right acorn nut, replace
bracket and acorn nut on left side, then replace bracket bolts and tighten.

17) Replace frame down tube, right rear bolt goes through this first then through mount. Replace all large allen bolts.

18) Tighten down all 6 mount bolts and front bracket bolts. Remove jacks.

19) Reverse doing steps 7 through 1. It would be a good time to check, clean and repack swingarm bearings. Just pry off
dust cap on each side of swingarm. Note for easier install of swingarm remove the final drive and install after the swingarm is installed.
fig22.jpg

fig23s.jpg



Tip on reinstalling stock exhaust: Leave bands on rear heads loose and attach both rear pipes to mufflers first. Then
attach front pipes to muffler assembly before fitting front pipes into heads. Install 3 mounting bolts for mufflers last.
 
Last edited:
Nice write up. I think that you should add in your post, to lay a rag over the top of the carbs to help keep anything from falling into the carb bodies.
 
i think he just copied the text from vmaxoutlaw. VERY NICE WRITE-UP. interesting they never mention to remove shocks when removing swingarm.
 
i think he just copied the text from vmaxoutlaw. VERY NICE WRITE-UP. interesting they never mention to remove shocks when removing swingarm.

Yeah I did copy that from Vmax Outlaw and added pics :) They don't remove the shocks but I didn't want to torque the shock by prying it off. I'm VERY particular/anal about things. Didn't think about the rag though, cause I was very careful not to do anything above the carbs and didn't want a wooly or something falling in there. Thanks for the comments though, I will add that to the top.

:biglaugh:
 
here's a question for ya. do you need 2 jacks? I have a 4 ton bottle jack and my scissor jack from my blazer, no regular jack, think that will work out OK?

Also will I need jackstands? I have 2 but they're both being used to hold the front end up as the forks are off..

just answered my own question on jackstands, i'm a moron, i'm gonna have to put the front end back together as the jack stands are on the engine guards which mount to the motor mount bolts!
 
Thanks man!!!!Nic write up with pics.This will make it alot easier to do this mod Good job Dude!!!!!!!:punk:
 
THanks, it's not that hard really. Just bag and tag all the bolts so you know where they come from, that's what I did. Makes the teardown a little longer but the assembly goes a lot quicker. Another note, take your time. Do it in the off season so it's not rushed. I also locktited another that was previously done on the assembly as well. I didn't have to remove the u-joint, just twirl it a little to get the clearance. It's going to try and hold up on the lip on the tank. Also, for the rear mounts, you aren't going to get a ton of clearance, that's why they have the lip squared off on the new ones. Just get it up enough for the new one and rip out the old one. The rubber will bend a little (you won't have clearance to get the whole round part of the rubber one out, you'll have to mush it a little) and pull it out. I used pliers to get a good grip. Any questions feel free to shoot me a PM or email.
 
:clapping:Nice job or the Write- up and great pictures. Well Done, Spur
 
doing this today. in theory. step one is to remount the lower triple, forks axle and wheel, then i can take the jackstands off and should be able to get the mounts in, in a few hours. then re-assembly of everything but the engine pieces to be done another day.
 
are you guys loctiting the motor mount bolts for the lower front and rears? i don't think it calls for it but is it a good idea with the solid mounts?
 
put loctite on all of 'em. took 3 of us 2-3 hours to get the rear two mounts in. what a pain in the ass.
 
O boy. Was planning on doing this one this afternoon (mounts came in the mail on Friday), but I don't got buddies to come over to help. I'm down to engine and framw (gas tank and everything already removed). Will that make it easier than your job Garret?
 
you can easily get the front four done. with the gas tank off your U joint will have more room to move about.

for the life of us we couldn't get the engine to pivot enough (beause you leave one front mount in) as the heads were hitting the front cross bar. had to remove that one front and jack the whole engine up. i, personally, would do it with a buddy simply for the fact one can work the jack and the other watch (being careful not to word that as one jacks and one watches haha).

i didn't have a regular hydrolic jack but we used a scissor jack and a bottle jack, having 2 definitely helps.

if i had to do it again, by myself i'd say a few jack stands and a couple jacks woul dmake it easy. also do you have the ability to strap the frame to the cieling or anything?
 
Geez, I didn't have half that trouble. With the tank out it should be a breeze. My engine or heads never came close to hitting anything. The one mount you left in, was it the left or right and was it the lower one? If I didn't have the gas tank in the way I would've been done in about an hour or so...

you can easily get the front four done. with the gas tank off your U joint will have more room to move about.

for the life of us we couldn't get the engine to pivot enough (beause you leave one front mount in) as the heads were hitting the front cross bar. had to remove that one front and jack the whole engine up. i, personally, would do it with a buddy simply for the fact one can work the jack and the other watch (being careful not to word that as one jacks and one watches haha).

i didn't have a regular hydrolic jack but we used a scissor jack and a bottle jack, having 2 definitely helps.

if i had to do it again, by myself i'd say a few jack stands and a couple jacks woul dmake it easy. also do you have the ability to strap the frame to the cieling or anything?
 
Geez, I didn't have half that trouble. With the tank out it should be a breeze. My engine or heads never came close to hitting anything. The one mount you left in, was it the left or right and was it the lower one? If I didn't have the gas tank in the way I would've been done in about an hour or so...

an hour ? start to finish? bike completely assembled to disassembled?

now i have frame braces/engine guards, knee guards plus i had to re-assemble the front end so that was all a bitch

i left the front lower one in. but had to end up loosening it back out

Oh did the write up help much?

for me, the un sure part was which bolts the write up kept talkin about. i knew how to remove everything but i wasn't sure of the way this write up wanted me to do it, labelling the bolts for those parts woulda been nice maybe.

otherwise it was a good writeup man.
 
I never read in the write up that there are two different sizes of mounts (rears have a larger diameter bolt than fronts. Should have been obvious, I guess, but I had the bad luck (lack of foresight) of placing the wrong mount in one of the rear holes - had to go back and redo it . Ug. Anyway, for anyone else planning to do this - make sure you replace the mounts with the right sized new ones!!!

Other than that - great write up. Thanks man
 
yea that sucks yukoner. damn. how long it take u?
 

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