Idle Mixture Adjustments

I was cleaning the carbs on my '85 Max the other day, and noticed 2 of the idle mixture screws were missing the "O" ring that goes onto the idle mixture screw "stack". Yamaha does not sell this "O" ring separately. does anyone know where I can get an "O" ring that will fit?

Should be a standard O-ring, try Lowes or your local auto parts store. Can't believe your local bike shop doesn't have anyhting?

mabchewy said:

Should be a standard O-ring, try Lowes or your local auto parts store. Can't believe your local bike shop doesn't have anyhting?

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Local bike shop wants to sell you the complete assembly not just the piece you want. Your right about checking the other types of stores as they should probably have it.
Nice avatar BTW...hyeah00:

If A/F mixture is properly adjusted using a sniffer.
Would # of turns of each carb be the ideal adjustment for that bike always? provided air filter is the same and no air box mods done after the sniffer adjustment.
I am currently experimenting with spinning the intake air while going through the stock rubber stacks and I am pleased to say it looks promising and is very cheap.
It wouldn't gain horses but it sure makes the bike have smoother acceleration and easier worm up and cold drivability.
The preliminary observation is that after installing the air spirals TM the mixture became leaner???
I guess more air at a higher velocity is rushing into the air stacks, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
I'll take the bike to adjust A/F mixture by sniffer after I complete the final mod.
Ibrahim
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silver surfer review

Ibrahim,Keep us posted on your results.Tornadoes didn't go over very well for autos. Shawn

Shawn kloker said:

Ibrahim,Keep us posted on your results.Tornadoes didn't go over very well for autos. Shawn

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Shawn, I think the reason it did not work well with autos 1- too expensive, 2- completely far away from the intake so the effect is minimal.
What I am making is so cheap & anyone can make them.

take a look at this, it looks so simple and does have an effect, but I am no mechanic and have no way of testing using a dyno. But from what I feel in smoothness and acceleration convinces me that it works, it can also be modified to work on single cone filter application.
If more people make it and try it someone will be able to dyno a bike with and without it and tell us the results:scooter0:
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Mercedes-Benz F 200 Imagination history

Hi ,
I bought a 98 vmax last fall and it started running rough and losing some power, so I tried the shotgun as discribed on lvlhead. com (very clear instructions). One of the bowl drains didn't give me any gas, must be plugged up. some of the others had some sandy stuff in them so I'll have to look at the filter to see if it is holey or missing, where else coult it come from? Also some of the idle mixture screw items were missing, one had no spring, washer or O- ring. On another one, the O-ring was in tiny pieces. The hint to blow compressed air into the jet worked fine on 3 out of 4 carbs, but one refused to budge no matter what I did, any other ideas to remove it? It did unscrew all the way off the threads no problem. I made a small extractor tool out of a piece of thin craft wire with a small hook bent at one end a little smaller than the washer hole. this worked to remove some springs/washers/O-rings that the compressed air wouldn't get.

It looks like I'll be taking off my carb set and breaking it all down soon, although I just reassembled everything and it is rideable for now. Has anyone ordered any rebuild kits, what do these contain, and where did you get them? Cost?

Thanks for any info you can give,

Steve Hinds

firefly said:

If A/F mixture is properly adjusted using a sniffer.
Would # of turns of each carb be the ideal adjustment for that bike always? provided air filter is the same and no air box mods done after the sniffer adjustment.
I am currently experimenting with spinning the intake air while going through the stock rubber stacks and I am pleased to say it looks promising and is very cheap.
It wouldn't gain horses but it sure makes the bike have smoother acceleration and easier worm up and cold drivability.
The preliminary observation is that after installing the air spirals TM the mixture became leaner???
I guess more air at a higher velocity is rushing into the air stacks, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
I'll take the bike to adjust A/F mixture by sniffer after I complete the final mod.
Ibrahim

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Hi Ibrahim,
Mixture went lean because you destroyed the venturi signal. Sorry but carbs need the air flow to be stable across the jet orifices.

John

JPalk said:

Hi Ibrahim,
Mixture went lean because you destroyed the venturi signal. Sorry but carbs need the air flow to be stable across the jet orifices.

John

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John, but the bike runs better than ever?
smooth & strong acceleration?
after I made 1/4 richer.
If the turbulence is causing any problem it would at least show with hesitation or roughness.
All I can say is try it for your self, its very easy to make, coil a 1/8th welding steel rod over a broom stick the widen the top by hand to fit snug to the top of the stack.
Ibrahim
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ecoVoyager

As a response to the "O" ring issue: I stopped off at my friendly local KTM dealer, and he had an assortment of "O" rings, one size of which, fits Mr. Max...he said it is a common item to replace, and most of the carbs use the same "O" ring....

firefly said:

John, but the bike runs better than ever?
smooth & strong acceleration?
after I made 1/4 richer.
If the turbulence is causing any problem it would at least show with hesitation or roughness.
All I can say is try it for your self, its very easy to make, coil a 1/8th welding steel rod over a broom stick the widen the top by hand to fit snug to the top of the stack.
Ibrahim

Click to expand...

Goggle, Venturi and pressure drop in pipes. You will be able to form your own opinion on your mod.
This and similar has been on the market since I was a kid, no free lunch I'm afraid. You will probably find a 10%+ reduction in power.

John

Ibrahim, I know you are hoping for some sort of miracle with your spirals, but they will only slow down the incoming air. The reason for the rubber stacks IS to prevent the air from swirrling in the first place. Ever see the long stacks on a dragster with fuel injection? They are there for the same reason. When you experiment, you automatically are expecting certain results and are just kidding yourself that they are real. You did accomplish one thing though, you decreased the air flow potential.

mikemax04 said:

Ibrahim, I know you are hoping for some sort of miracle with your spirals, but they will only slow down the incoming air. The reason for the rubber stacks IS to prevent the air from swirrling in the first place. Ever see the long stacks on a dragster with fuel injection? They are there for the same reason. When you experiment, you automatically are expecting certain results and are just kidding yourself that they are real. You did accomplish one thing though, you decreased the air flow potential.

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That is logical but how come the bike is smoother and accelerates better? is it all in my mind that I am going faster? the air going in the stacks is going in violently anyway being sucked in so that spiral is not impeding the flow, I think.
Maybe I'll get over it in a few months
For now I'll ride and enjoy.
firefly
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ultimate fighter

as far as the orings go, I would check out www.bikebandit.com. They have microfeche of bikes. I had to replace the 4 orings on the carb drain screws and I ordered just them from bikebandit.

microfeche looks like this, hope the link works

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandi..._id~410531~model_dept_name~V-MAX+/+VMX12G.asp

G'Day there go buy a o ring kit @ car parts dealer Auto pro etc. nice assortment