Cheap EBay Voltmeter.

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Bill Seward

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I bought one of those small voltmeters off Ebay, with the intention of mounting it to the handlebar clamp and monitoring voltage. The meter reads 12.8 volts directly connected to battery, rising to 14.4 just off idle. I tied it into the front running light line in the headlight, and grounded it well. It reads 13.0v at the same RPM it read 14.4 connected to battery. I'm sure it probably is just internal resistance through 29 year old wiring and connectors. Anyway, I'm just assuming 13.0v on the meter = a real 14.4v, and won't pay any attention to it till or of the meter drops below about 11v or so...

Bike cranks over great, cold or hot, and horns and lights work fine...
 
Yoiur bike doesn't have to be 29 years old for that to happen. I've got the same thing on my '06. My volt reading comes from the speedometer power wire. It is close to a 2V difference from the battery.
 
I use a 1 1/2" dia. analog gauge, hooked up to the brown return wire from the ignition switch. Even this close to the battery, there was still about a volt less than battery voltage, when initially hooked up (it was "spot-on" when tested directly on the battery)
Luckily, there was an adjustment screw on the back of the gauge, hidden under a "QC" label. A slight turn with a screwdriver returned the accuracy.
If you don't have an adjustment, I think you be safe making that mental calculation.
Cheers!
 
I bought 1, 4 weeks ago, with leds light it's mounted to the handle bar... and it plugs in to battery tender socket that hangs down behind my side cover. So I can unplug when I'm not riding.
 

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If your bike is running OK then the displayed voltage (within reason) probably isn't that important. You are also assuming that the gauge is accurate.

Where is does have a value is to alert you to any change from the norm which may indicate a developing issue.
 
I was rooting around in the wiring under the seat today, and found that the main fuse holder had gotten hot enough to deform, almost melt.. probably due to internal resistance from corrosion. I cut the whole thing out, and replaced it with a 30amp blade type fuse holder. Immediately, the indicated voltage on the cheap EBay voltmeter went up to 13.8 from around 12.9.. Definitely closer to actual volts at battery, 14.4..
 
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After my recent Ignition system Cluster Bang "Thanks again Miles" I can tell you with certainty that the OEM connectors due develop internal corrosion therefore resistance. I opened, cleaned or replaced every single connector on my 06 last week. It made a very noticeable difference.
 
True! There are a number of members here who have had the 3 wire connector from stator to regulator/rectifier get hot enough to melt. Mine actually smoked, it got so hot.... A soldering gun is your best friend when this happens..
 
All still well here... Voltmeter varies 13.7 to 13.8 volts indicated. I know I have 14.3 to 14.4 at battery, good charge! The main fuse holder was really ratty, and now that I'm riding the bike, I do notice lights a bit brighter (I think), and horn a bit louder also.. I'll bet there is almost one volt more going out to the system, not being wasted as heat due to resistance in the fuse wiring..
 

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