What is the best oil for ouer max – semi or full syntetic?

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uri gal

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What is the best oil for ouer max – semi or full syntetic?

I using a MOTUL V300 15/50 FULL SYNTETIC

I heard that full synthetic can lead to Leaks because Syn oil finds it's way out easier than conventional' also can cause a clutch sliping

What do you think ?
 
Ive ran AMSoil, Shell Rotella T and good old Yamalube. My Max seems to like the Yamalube the best so thats what i stick with.
 
A fully synthetic oil may make sense if you are running a modern engine that has tight tolerance's, high heat areas such as found in a turbo or you regularly run the lube below minimum or don't change it regularly.

On that basis the semi-synthetic would be preferable + it would save you some dosh.

That said I suspect that for most of a good quality mineral is more than sufficient for our needs. It is our paranoia (and marketing hype) that makes us believe that if it is more technological and costs more it must be better.

Think of it like this - if you were shoot someone in the head with a .22 slug, or from a .50 calibre heavy machine gun or from an 18" Naval gun, the result would be the same. On that basis why pay for an 18" shell if a .22 will do the job just as well?
 
A fully synthetic oil may make sense if you are running a modern engine that has tight tolerance's, high heat areas such as found in a turbo or you regularly run the lube below minimum or don't change it regularly.

On that basis the semi-synthetic would be preferable + it would save you some dosh.

That said I suspect that for most of a good quality mineral is more than sufficient for our needs. It is our paranoia (and marketing hype) that makes us believe that if it is more technological and costs more it must be better.

Think of it like this - if you were shoot someone in the head with a .22 slug, or from a .50 calibre heavy machine gun or from an 18" Naval gun, the result would be the same. On that basis why pay for an 18" shell if a .22 will do the job just as well?


Quality answer, Max. In fact, if pressed to expand a bit, I'd add ....
"Beautifully written, succinct and to the point".
But maybe with one caveat - your last paragraph.
Your opinion may of course be influenced by living in a country where even the "Bobbies" carry only nightsticks for protection, and deaths by gunshots are rare, (even exceeded by beheadings, stonings and other Sharia law forms of punishment)
Keep in mind, your answer will be read by a membership predominately of the American persuasion.
Therefore, of course paying for an 18" shell is better than doing the job with a puny .22! Go big, or go home!

Your statement is as insulting to a Yank as asking "Why buy multiple large magazine assault rifles, when you could defend yourself better with a single shot 12 gauge?" (I think Mr. Biden actually did ask this question!)
Hope this makes sense to you, Max. Cheers!

p.s., boys and girls of Forumworld.....with this, my 1000th, post, I've decided to stray from a long-standing policy of mine - to not wade into the political arena. I've been missing out on too much good-natured fun!:clapping:
Of course, your reaction will determine if I continue down this path. I don't want to ruffle feathers. It's the love of the V-max that we all have in
common, not necessarliy our political views!
Cheers again!
 
If you ride the bike agressively at all I would suggest NO synthetic of any kind.
 
Sometimes I do ride aggressively – till now I believed that a full synthetic is better for aggressive riding

So now I am very confused
 
Yep, its help - thanks

Its Strengthens the use of full synthetic oil like I do

I am understand that some people can say that the full.sy oil can cost you twice compare to the semi.sy – while the benefit you get its 10% or 20% more….

For me the cost in that case, it's not an issue at all - I have this bike for the last 8 year, I spend on it a lot of money and I am never going to sell it - so more 10$ or 30$ in a year it's not going to make any different

I just wanted to be sure that using a full synthetic on a old engine will be the right decision
 
If you are comfortable with that decision then it is the right one...but I am still of the opinion that a good quality mineral oil would protect your investment just as well for much less outlay.
 
Yep, its help - thanks

Its Strengthens the use of full synthetic oil like I do

I am understand that some people can say that the full.sy oil can cost you twice compare to the semi.sy – while the benefit you get its 10% or 20% more….

For me the cost in that case, it's not an issue at all - I have this bike for the last 8 year, I spend on it a lot of money and I am never going to sell it - so more 10$ or 30$ in a year it's not going to make any different

I just wanted to be sure that using a full synthetic on a old engine will be the right decision

It's not cost, it's what oil I feel is best for my engine and transmission. I prefer diesel type oils. 15w-40 Rotella with it's zinc content works well for a lot of Vmaxers. A fully synthetic oil experiment? Please keep us informed on this. Maybe your on to something. I don't buy the long intervals between changes, dirty oil is corrosive to an engine. If stored, even worse.IMHO
 
Every time we've tried it the clutch slipped. There are multiple times this has been also commented on in this very forum and most have been lucky enough after 3-4 back to back oil changes to get it to stop slipping when going back to regular oil.
 
Actually, I'm USA born and bred (and spent 8yrs Active Duty Navy) and understood his response perfectly without any offense at all :)
 
Read something a chemical engineer wrote a few years ago which addressed this question with technical talk that surpassed my comprehension.

Bottom line: Rotella T 15W-40 (or comperable "non energy conserving oil") is best for older machines
 
I used two quarts of 20-50 full synthetic motorcycle oil that is Jaso Ma rated and the rest is Rotella T6 full synthetic 5-40 with the K&N 303 oil filter. Amsoil is great stuff, a bit spendy if it's all you use but bike shifts better with just a little bit of the 20-50 oil in it. Rotella T6 goes in all my bikes. All the water cooled ones that is, the V4 Yamaha motors like just a touch of heavier oil or the middle gear howls.
 
I switched to full synthetic in my 1986. Two months later I had to replace the clutch. I ran Rotella T after that and had no problems.

you are making the wrong decision if you use synthetic oil.
 
I switched to full synthetic in my 1986. Two months later I had to replace the clutch. I ran Rotella T after that and had no problems.

you are making the wrong decision if you use synthetic oil.

Same here, I ended up having to throw good clutch disk in the trash, because the p.o. put Mobil 1 in. If I was going to ride, never in v-boost mode, I think synthetic would be ok. 15w-40 Rotella gets it done.
 
I think I read an article over at Bob is the Oil Guy forums that said the Dino 15-40 Rotella T5 or the full synthetic Rotella T6 5-40 were both acceptable oils, arguably a better oil. Neither has slick additives like moly, well they do technically but in small amounts. It's those car oils that have all the slippery stuff added and the good stuff like zinc removed.
Over the last couple of years for the most part clutches were damaged after using Mobil 1 that had friction modifiers like moly added. Or Teflon like Slick 50.
 
I like Crisco... :rofl_200:

No, seriously though, another vote for Rotella T5 15W40, in all of my bikes.
 

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