Can I get a opinion

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Here are some pictures taken after I took the cases apart this morning.
 

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You need to get the crank out of the way and check the machined surfaces where the thrust area is that sets the crank end play. IF that pair of surfaces remained undamaged then you can consider rebuilding the engine.

The HD oiling kit includes all the gaskets and misc needed for the install. Custom oil pump spacer and Heavy Duty oring to prevent blow out. $100.
 
I finally found some time to remove the heads and check the machined surface. The surface is scratched pretty good, that I can feel it with my nail.
Is this image of the pistons normal, clean around the edges?
 

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That surface looks usable. Post a picture of the other surface. Pistons are carboned up for sure (probably too rich).
 
Sorry, I forgot the other side. Here its the pic of the other machined surface.
 

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I think it would be ok to put a crank and rods in it (clean all the debris out of it).

Here's pics of an oil passage addition you can do to the block. Also added a picture of about as bad as you can get on a crank.

Sean
 

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Thanks Sean , yeah there is metal flakes everywhere in there. I have everything stripped apart now and ready to start cleaning.

I'll be emailing you soon to discus what I figure I need to get back up and running.
 
If there is metal debris I wouldn't trust any cleaning method other than complete disassembly and hot tanking the bare cases....
 
If there is metal debris I wouldn't trust any cleaning method other than complete disassembly and hot tanking the bare cases....
+1

Then a hot bath in soapy water, I use Tide powdered detergent and everything scrubbed well with plastic brushes. Hot hot water flushing, then blow dry and wipe down with wd-40 or something like it to prevent rust. Cylinder walls after honing included. I never skip this step.
 
WD40 will not stop rust. Need to hand wipe oil on the cylinders after cleaning. I don't think it needs a hot tank but for sure a good cleaning. Not many internal passages to clog up.
 
I probably misused the term hot tank. Whatever the machine shops use to clean up after machining is what I'd be after. Not sure what the local guys here do to clean my heads after I ported and the resurfaced but they were clean as a new whistle when I got them back.
 
Just a update on what has been happening to the engine. Thanks to Sean I now have a good crank and rods with brg's. I have cleaned and inspected everything = found cracked starter clutch. Sean is sending a replacement as well. :clapping: Installing ARP studs, Sean's HD oiling kit. One question, is it normal for the oil pan to sit up just by a hair with the oiling kit installed? It will tighten down with bolts, but wanted to be sure I'm not crushing the oil pump or something.

Here are some pics....
Check out how deformed the old oil tube spacer is, next to a new one.
 

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Yes, you will preload the pan a little with the HD oiling kit when tightening up the bolts.
 
Looks great!! Glad to see it going back together :)

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
 
UPDATE!

The motor is coming back in one piece finally:eusa_dance: I just have to make a trip to the Yami dealer to get some shims to finish the valves. I found all the intake valves to be at .003" Was able to move shims around to get .005", but still need 4 shims to complete the job.

Can't wait to hear her come to life! But not looking forward to putting that heavy prick back into the frame. LOL
 

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Congrats.
You already did the hard part. Stuffing it back in the frame will be easy. A floor jack and a couple alignment punches make it a 10 minute job for 1 man.

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