bboy5818
Active Member
Great advice, I will definitely check if removing that plug changes anything. Thanks for the advice.
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bboy5818
Active Member
No, I have not yet synched them. My buddy has a vacuum gauge and is letting me borrow it this week. Will reportback once I have them all synched.
bboy5818
Active Member
Okay, so I pulled the lead off that plug and I couldn't really tell a difference with it just idling. Should I ride it and see if I notice a difference with that lead off? I did check that there was spark from the lead by inserting a metal rid and holding it near the bike chassis. It was sparking. So it's got to be something further down the chain. Perhaps the plug? I can see that cylinder gets gas by running it with the air box off. I can see the spray. Maybe its just way to lean? I will check the plug itself later and see what I learn when teying to sync the carbs. Thanks
bboy5818
Active Member
Oops, i meant way to rich.
I would advise caution running an electronic ignition high tension spark plug lead w/o having it connected to a plug which is grounded. FYI. It can be off of the bike spark plug & attached to a spare plug well-grounded to the frame. A large plastic clip is useful for this.
Plugs are cheap, I have gotten one which was bad, brand-new out of the box. Replace it.
The electronic ignition boxes don't like to not be able to discharge the energy the coils provide.
Plugs are cheap, I have gotten one which was bad, brand-new out of the box. Replace it.
The electronic ignition boxes don't like to not be able to discharge the energy the coils provide.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
A good portion of the time....if you pull a plug....and there is no change in the idle...its because there is no gas getting to the cylinder. No gas...no explosion. If the plugs are suspect, just change it. Last ones I got at OReillys was about 10 bucks for a set of 4.
bboy5818
Active Member
I will change that plug for sure, thanks for the info.
bboy5818
Active Member
True, thanks
bboy5818
Active Member
Thanks, I'll let you know what I find.
Hellboy
Well-Known Member
You can't synch the carbs if one cylinder isn't firing. I agree they most likely need synched but you must get that cylinder running first, in my opinion.
Matt
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
The point that people are trying to make is that if the sync is WAY out...there wont be a lot of fuel going TO the cylinder allowing it to fire. Ive changed the jets on mine....and afterwards it sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders. A sync is VERY important to a Vmax.
Hellboy
Well-Known Member
I think you might have been correct the first time, way to lean. WAY to lean as Traumahawk said would likely keep it from firing at all. Too rich as someone else stated does make it run cooler than too lean does but not as cool as you are saying. My bike runs on the rich side rather than the lean and it will burn you badly after a couple of minutes running. I think changing the spark plug and then Synching and or whatever it takes to get it to fire. It should definitely have changed the way it ran when you disconnected the spark plug lead. Have you checked or adjusted the idle speed mixture screws as well? I'm sure you will get it figured out. We all just want to help so you'll have to read all the advise and filter through it as we are all guessing and think we know best when actually, we're guessing and someone is usually more "correct" than the others.
Matt
bboy5818
Active Member
Matt, I certainly appreciate everyone's thoughts and comments. Sorting through it all is expected. I think I am going to change the plug and then try syncing the carbs and see where that leads. I like the point you made that way too lean would prevent that cylinder from firing, all air no gas, because the temperate i am seeing on that exhaust pipe I can touch, I will also take some temp measurements to conpare each cylinder. Haven't had time to work on it much lately, but I plan to over the next week or so. Thanks for all your help.
bboy5818
Active Member
Update... So, I changed the plug on cylinder#2, which is the one that the pipe was running cool and still no change. When I pulled the plug that was in there the electrode was black and a little wet. Since I have not figured out the problem, I also decided to check all the cylinders for firing. I came to the conclusion that the engine may only be running on two cylinders, #1 and #4. The reason being that I can pull the plug wires off of cylinders #2 and #3 with no change to the engine rpm. However, if I pull off plug cable for cylinder #1 or #4, the engine rpm drops and may even stall. I have a spark to all plugs, I checked them with the plugs out and the plug grounded. The spark was not necessarily blue, more yellow/orange, but they all looked the same. I'm guessing there is still an issue with the carbs? Something must be blocked? Would it be a waste of time trying to sync the carbs if all 4 cylinders are not firing? All thoughts and suggestions are welcome and aappreciated. Thanks. Bill
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I would suggest doing a shotgun......and then sync.
Here is the link.....and its very easy to do.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
Here is the link.....and its very easy to do.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
bboy5818
Active Member
Thanks, that is exactly what I am going to do. Would you agree that I should only shotgun the suspect carburetors? Also, when doing the shotgot what happens if I cant get the oring out from behind the idle mixture screw? After doing the shotgun, I will sync them. Also, is there an advantage or disadvantage to not draining the fuel bowls before doing the shotgun? Thanks
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Well you can get a pick or something to get the O-ring out. I think the main thing is trying not to lose it when you use the air to blast everything out.
I would just go ahead and do all 4 carbs....you there anyways.
With draining the bowls....you get the chance to see of there is any sediment...etc stuff in the crabs....plus when you blast the carb with air...fuel thats in the carb with also get blasted out with the air.
Just my thoughts.
I would just go ahead and do all 4 carbs....you there anyways.
With draining the bowls....you get the chance to see of there is any sediment...etc stuff in the crabs....plus when you blast the carb with air...fuel thats in the carb with also get blasted out with the air.
Just my thoughts.
bboy5818
Active Member
Okay, thanks. Will let you know how it goes.
Shotgun all four.
Spray compressed carb cleaner ONLY into the jets shown on that link too. A person can spray too much carb cleaner down the wrong passages on these carbs and ruin diaphrams (don't ask me how I know this), and those coasting enrichener diaphrams run about $45.00 per carb nowadays.
PROTECT YOUR EYES WHILE SPRAYING ANY CLEANER AND COMPRESSED AIR, not to mention any painted or plactic parts of the bike that you want to preserve.(please don't ask me how I know this either)
Spray compressed carb cleaner ONLY into the jets shown on that link too. A person can spray too much carb cleaner down the wrong passages on these carbs and ruin diaphrams (don't ask me how I know this), and those coasting enrichener diaphrams run about $45.00 per carb nowadays.
PROTECT YOUR EYES WHILE SPRAYING ANY CLEANER AND COMPRESSED AIR, not to mention any painted or plactic parts of the bike that you want to preserve.(please don't ask me how I know this either)
