V-Max overheating?

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roadtoruin

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Is my v-max the norm here or is something wrong. I do a lot of heavy downtown riding, stop and go, in the heat (plus 30s lately) and my temp guage is always on the verge of red zone. I even have a fan over ride switch which I throw on when it really gets up there and basically just keeps it there.

The bike comes back down to reasonable levels while riding but when I come to a stop its right back up again. I just changed the oil to a 20-40 mix the other day and it hasn't seemed to help either.

Does the max just run hot as hell or what?
 
Is my v-max the norm here or is something wrong. I do a lot of heavy downtown riding, stop and go, in the heat (plus 30s lately) and my temp guage is always on the verge of red zone. I even have a fan over ride switch which I throw on when it really gets up there and basically just keeps it there.

The bike comes back down to reasonable levels while riding but when I come to a stop its right back up again. I just changed the oil to a 20-40 mix the other day and it hasn't seemed to help either.

Does the max just run hot as hell or what?


I was out riding the other night when it was 80s F and humid.....

Going slow through the construction it would heat up to almost the red zone....

Get moving it would come back down.....I think it's normal:confused2:
 
The Max does run pretty hot in hot weather/traffic. Here in FL (90+F every day) , mine stays at about 2/3 of the way up the gauge with the fan on. I have a lower temp fan switch fitted (it comes on just under half-way up the gauge) and an override to switch it off when needed. I also have an aftermarket metal blades fan - not sure what it is but I think it helps.

If it stays too high, I would first make sure that you have a lot of water (or even water only) in your coolant mix, as water dissipates heats better than anything else. You only need the coolant to protect against corrosion and freezing at low temperatures. Some people use (and swear by) alternatives such as Engine Ice and Toyota Red stuff, but I still believe water is best. To avoid corrosion and deposits, use distilled water.

Next I would give the system a good flush, using a garden hose and keeping going until it runs clear. If you find a lot of gunk in there, you can always use a auto radiator flushing agent for a few days before water flushing.

Also check your coolant purge valve - it's quite hidden and hard to decipher which is the right way, but one position is for flushing and the other for riding so make sure that it's set the right way.

I believe Dannymax had a picture thread about this one somewhere..
 
It's been high 80's and into the 90's a little in the northeast this week. I put in the Auto Zone crossover for this swith, 88 Nissan Sentra-MT0540. Haven't gone over halfway on the gauge yet, including idling in traffic. The fan runs alot, but I don't care. I noticed my bike and guys I ride with going up close to the red line with the stock switch.
 
I have heard people having good result with "engine ice" as well...
I think there was a thread about it...

Engine Ice doesnt do SHIT. Just my humble opinion but it did not lower my temps one little bit.
One to water wetter to see if it helps.
 
If you're gonna flush it out remove the 4 rectangle covers on the cylinder walls with an allen, then use an old spark plug with threaded ends and screw it into the rubber plug, pull and they will come out. this will help drain the cylinder water as you flush with a hose. Assemble in reverse order.
 
Mine runs very cool. The P/O said that with the stage 1 kit dramatically reduced engine temperature across the board. I also have the aluminum fan blade, and a manual on switch in addition to the standard thermostat. 85 degree weather idling in stop-and-go traffic with the fan set to on, and it never goes above 1/2 way up the scale. One time I let it hit the red zone, the fan came on, and within about 2 minutes it dropped enough to turn off again. Manually setting the fan on drops the temp from near red zone to 1/2 way again. Riding it hovers around 1/3, and barely above the lower line if it's a cool morning or I'm riding very easy. Just running a 50/50 coolant mix....no magic potions or anything.
 
Yeah, your readings are normal as my cooling system is completely stock and no special additives to the coolant, and I get the same gauge readings as you in stop and go conditions. Have ridden it hard in the hot humid weather but haven't overheated. I'll be slapping on a fan switch just to help out a bit in the stop and go traffic.
 
How about the Napa thermostat replacement? I have not done this myself, but if you do some searches many have had good luck keeping temps in the check. Can anyone else chime in on this?
 
I have heard people having good result with "engine ice" as well...
I think there was a thread about it...

I drained and flushed my system and replaced it with Engine Ice. Works great for me. :)

Now, for the record, I did not go with Engine Ice for any other reason than it was a recognizable name when I was looking over the shelves at the stealership. I also recommend that you flush with a garden hose, then let it drain well. I let mine site for about 30 minutes after flushing, then I stood it up and shook it back and forth, then let it sit for about another 30 minutes before closing and refilling the system.

As for the drain and ride settings for the coolant, take a look in the service manual, once you wrap your head around it, it's a piece of cake!
 
Engine Ice is easy because it's pre-mixed and is silicate free. I use it in both of my W/C bikes. I didn't put it in to drop temps. I have no issues in the 90?+ temps. I have a fan switch over ride that I use religiously though in traffic.

Chris
 
How about the Napa thermostat replacement? I have not done this myself, but if you do some searches many have had good luck keeping temps in the check. Can anyone else chime in on this?


At least by reading the manual the OEM thermastat starts to open between 176-183 and should be full open by 203. Dont think that is much different than any aftermarket Tstat. I replaced mine and it didnt do any good. The fan is supposed to kick on at 221* +/- 37* That means by factory specs it can get all the way up to 258* before the fan kicks on.
The radiator cap is supposed to hold pressure of 10.7-14.9 psig and that corresponds to temps of 240-250 before boiling occurs.
Now by no means do I allow that with my bike but it is allowed.
 
The Max does run pretty hot in hot weather/traffic. Here in FL (90+F every day) , mine stays at about 2/3 of the way up the gauge with the fan on. I have a lower temp fan switch fitted (it comes on just under half-way up the gauge) and an override to switch it off when needed. I also have an aftermarket metal blades fan - not sure what it is but I think it helps.

If it stays too high, I would first make sure that you have a lot of water (or even water only) in your coolant mix, as water dissipates heats better than anything else. You only need the coolant to protect against corrosion and freezing at low temperatures. Some people use (and swear by) alternatives such as Engine Ice and Toyota Red stuff, but I still believe water is best. To avoid corrosion and deposits, use distilled water.

Next I would give the system a good flush, using a garden hose and keeping going until it runs clear. If you find a lot of gunk in there, you can always use a auto radiator flushing agent for a few days before water flushing.

Also check your coolant purge valve - it's quite hidden and hard to decipher which is the right way, but one position is for flushing and the other for riding so make sure that it's set the right way.

I believe Dannymax had a picture thread about this one somewhere..

Water will boil out of the bike at 212 degrees, coolant/anti freeze will boil at a much higher temp. So straight water will only be temporary until it boils out., and IT WILL. 50/50 coolant is much better than just H2o. :punk:
 
Water will boil out of the bike at 212 degrees, coolant/anti freeze will boil at a much higher temp. So straight water will only be temporary until it boils out., and IT WILL. 50/50 coolant is much better than just H2o. :punk:

If something is wrong with your cap then water will boil at 212. The cap is supposed to hold the pressure in and not relieve any until 10-15 psig, that corresponds to a temp of 240-250 before it will boil out.

Water is by far the best cooling agent around, that we can get our hands on. Problem is distilled water will eat you aluminium and not provide any lubrication for the water pump. Also it will freeze at 32*, not good if you are in a cold area. "Coolant" is not really coolant at all, it is "Antifreeze". It doesnt do much of anything to help cool the bike. Water has a very high specific heat capacity allowing it actually absorb more heat per pound mass than "Coolant"
Would I run straight water in my bike, Heck NO. Not good for the metal and pump. But it is by far the best cooling medium we can use to remove heat.
Cheers
 
Water will boil out of the bike at 212 degrees, coolant/anti freeze will boil at a much higher temp. So straight water will only be temporary until it boils out., and IT WILL. 50/50 coolant is much better than just H2o. :punk:

wow that's pretty wrong... water cools the best but it doesn't lubricate the water pump and cause for premature pump failure. If water wasn't the best then why top fuel cars only use water? the coolant is designed to not freeze and to lubricate the system. And water will not boil at 212 since the system is pressurized. That is why the radiator cap pressurizes the coolant system. The added pressure is designed to raise the boil point. If you live in the colder climates the most you should run is 50%. I run closer to 75% water if not 80% if i can get away with it. If you can keep the coolant system cooled, boiling over wouldn't be a problem.
 

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