More clutch issues..

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SBK15

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During the winter I replaced the slave cylinder on my '88 V-max. Before, the slave cylinder was shot and was leaking to the point where it was draining all the fluid out. Put a brand new slave cylinder back in, now the clutch feels like it slips, however instead of a usual slip where the clutch just lets go and it revs to the sky, it will rev up then "catch" back, almost as if I patted the clutch lever in. It will do it the worst on say a 4k roll on, doesn't matter if it's full throttle or half.

In the Spring of '13 I replaced the clutch friction plates with Genuine Yamaha full friction, however we re-used the steel discs as they didn't look to bad at all. Also used the PCW heavy duty clutch spring.

I'm confuzled on why the clutch would not just rev sky high and let go, but it grabs back. Could this be a slave cylinder problem or installation mistake? Last summer the bike ran great and didn't hint of slipping.
 
I'm wondering if there is still just a bit of air trapped in the line? How did you bleed the clutch?
 
Not saying its the cause but did you bead blast the steals?? Also what type of oil are u using and and are you using any additive to the oil?? My first try would be getting a new line maybe its deteriorated some inside the rubbed and not allowing the fluid to release....just a thought

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
Make sure the clutch supply line has no restrictions. Parts of the supply line is rubber and may have deteriated internally causing blockage of the return fluid.
 
Air in the clutch will not cause this. The clutch natural position is full engagement and requires the lever to disengage. If the piston is sticking in the bore of the slave or a restriction in the line that keeps it from letting fluid return to the master then that could be an issue.

Your new clutch may be showing a weakness in another part of the system too. It could either be a groved inner/outer basket causing the plates to hang up or it could be something as bad as an early transmission indication of it going out.
 
Not saying its the cause but did you bead blast the steals?? Also what type of oil are u using and and are you using any additive to the oil?? My first try would be getting a new line maybe its deteriorated some inside the rubbed and not allowing the fluid to release....just a thought

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I don't remember, whatever it was it was Yamalube 10-40 or 20-40 can't really remember.. But I use no additives and do NOT use synthetic.
 
I don't remember, whatever it was it was Yamalube 10-40 or 20-40 can't really remember.. But I use no additives and do NOT use synthetic.

First off next oil change get rid of the yamalube it sucks!! I ran it in my bike and it was making metal switched to Rotella and it went away. Neutral was hard to find and it shifted really hard switch to Rotella and smooth as glass! As for the clutch it wouldnt effect it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
My clutch was acting the exact same way but would only slip when hot. When it did slip, it would rev up then catch itself and the rpms would drop and then power. My problem was 2 fold, first the small hole in the master cylinder was clogged. This needed a small guitar string then a complete rebuild to get rid of crap in the master. Once that was done I still had the slippage and it wound up being the actual aftermarket lever I had installed. The barrel would get stuck on the pushrod of the clutch master cylinder and the pushrod would not allow the clutch to fully disengage. I was able to get a stock lever from Sean and it fixed the issue. No problems for 3 weeks now.
Hope this helps because in my frustration I replaced the frictions, the steels, the slave cylinder, rebuilt the master then finally replaced the stock lever to fix my issue.
 
You said the steels looked good, but did you check each steel for warpage? All it takes is one to be warped that would make the clutch slip, IMHO...
 
I just replaced my clutch like 2 weeks ago. I had order another OEM plate from Sean, only to find I had the Barnett kit already in my bike. Mine slipped just like you are describing. I did a steel plate swap with Sean( $20) my fiber plates had basicly nothing on them. Also I knew my steel plates going in would be good. I put a full plate in also instead of that half plate. I also changed out my oil with Rotella, when I did the starter clutch last week. I road this weekend to Rolling Thunder and my bike hooks well enough to pull the tire up under boost....Listen to their advice it works, I am proof.
 

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