Cool air airbox

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steamer97

steamer97

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I have been thinking that since the "Y" on top of My bike's air-box is not there (P.O. took it off). It would have made a great place to attach/fabricate cold air ducting to connect the intake system to the sides of the bike for cooler air. I remember in the distant past a Kawasaki that came out with commercial looking (outrageous) flex pipes coming out of the tank area of the bike for cold air. Turbulence would probably be nullified in the V-max air-box and filter assembly is my thinking. What do you, members, think of this Idea, and should I just fabricate an attachment to the airbox or find another "Y"?
 
I personally like the idea. I would fabricate it the easiest way possible. If you do take on the challenge keep us posted. I believe it should make a difference with deliverance of cooler air to the carbs. It probably won't have any ram air effect, but the air will be denser to the carbs.
 
Any advantage would probably be so insignificant it would not be worth the time, expense, thought etc.
There is a ram air side scoop set up that is all pre engineered and looks good too. Supercharged bikes have the air filter sticking up through our air box cover not for any ram air effect but just the physical necessity. The airbox question has been tackled many times before you. Maybe take a lesson from them.
 
I believe it made a difference on my fj1200 custom in the uk but on those motors the k&n's breathe air that has passed over the aircooled motor...so super heated air.
Not sure if it would help on the max as the intake is up away from the heat.
 
Starts working at around 100mph but still no difference that really matters.
 
Making cooler air available to the engine can never hurt. Of course it will never be cooler than ambient, so it would be a wasted exercise unless there evidence of trapped hot air in and around the air box.

There is a big difference between a cold air intake and ram air.....it sounds like we are mixing the 2 in this thread. As Sean said there is no benefit to ram air until real high speeds because that is the only condition that will create increased pressure in the air box.

The Gen 2 actually benefits a lot from just allowing more air into the motor. Early dyno testing showed that removing the air box netted almost 10 HP!

That led to the development of the Monster Big Air kit that is similar to a stage 7 in that there is an individual filter for each intake. That adds about 7HP. It also requires the removal the YCCI system though (the ECU controlled variable velocity stacks) which in turn decreases TQ and HP below 6K rpm.

I never liked that trade off so I came up with a 3 filter solution that doubles the filter area on the Gen 2 box. It produces gains in a very broad area with no losses as seen with removal of the YCCI.......and the peak gains are very close to Monster Air.

Some real cheap HP!

complete.jpg BastAir.jpg
 
Hi It,

Here is my 2cents,

Get a "Y" and raise it up 3/8 to 1/2". Keeps the low end you loose when the Y is removed and the top end is still strong. Trim the opening of the air box to match your K&N filter ( I enlarged it also) I also insulated the bottom of the air box with 1'2" foil faced insulation.

Every little bit helps. My ZX-11 had true ram air. NO flex tubing and the angles on the inlet to the air box were under 10 degrees( loss in pressure otherwise) from the factory. I modded that air box also. Made sure it was truly sealed, fabbed a Kouchman defuser for the inlet, and insulated where I could.

Intake tuning works----a little.
Lew
 
When researching just a bit one site had this comment which seems to make sense.

"The cold air intake increases the amount of “cold” oxygen that is made available to your engine system. The intake is usually installed on a location where colder air can flow into the engine system—usually on the bumper or even hood of the car.

Cold air is usually preferable when it comes to fuel combustion since cold air tends to expand more once heated. It’s also a bit denser compared to warm air, thereby encouraging better fuel combustion"

If this theory is true and the installation of the duct work has smooth non restricting flows and cooler air is taken in, I can see where cold air would be beneficial. Under the faux tank lid , the air filtering system has no choice but to take in hot air from around the engine.
 
I would leave the Y off....and trim the filter to match the opening in the airbox....I picked up over 2 hp that way.
 
You could mod the airbox lid to hold a flat panel k&n filter or just get Seans muscle kit. switch to a louvered top cover and insulate the airbox as has been suggested and presto, plenty of cold air.
 
Cold air is good, more air is better

My bike with K&N and modified airbox
IMAG1481.jpg


KJ's bike with the morley air kit
morleykit.jpg
 
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