Just got my first Vmax! Advice for me, intro for you!

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Hi happy new vmax owner, Did you get the bike from Hyattsville, MD it looks like the bike I took a look at in the middle of July. Was there some paint fading a little dusty on the bike.....
 
Yes I did. What was your opinion of it when you went to see it?

Was the second gear a problem? He has told me multiple times to my face and in written text that there are no tranny problems, so if there is one I'm going to have a word with him.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of Vmax! That slight pressure your feeling on your back is just the mod monkey, youll get used to the feeling, lol.
 
Yes I did. What was your opinion of it when you went to see it?

Was the second gear a problem? He has told me multiple times to my face and in written text that there are no tranny problems, so if there is one I'm going to have a word with him.


I could not test ride the bike, something about the battery at the time I went to see it. Could not get it to start. The bike was not clean as the pictures when I seen it. I just did not get a good feel for the guy.

Did you ride it yet,
 
Hm that's weird, he may have put a new battery in it - it fires up almost instantly when he hits the button.

And no I have not because it is not insured. Can I get insurance for it before the title is in my name?
 
Ok I'll consider doing that, then.

So guys, given the full list of mods (what I plan to do/what has been done) what would you say the 1/4 mile potential is, 0-60 is, and how would handling be compared to my cousin's fz09 or r1?

Velocity stacks
Stage 7 kit
Full exhaust w/ dual Holeshots
UFO fork brace
Radial tires front + back (new rear rim with 160 or 170 tire)
R1 brakes + calipers
Motor mounts
Frame brace
New front springs for forks + whatver else they take
440s in the back


So, will I be able to keep up in the twisties given equal rider skill?

Also, a list of fun non-pref. mods I might do:

The O-ring bracket
Underlights
HID headlight bulb
New blinkers
Heated grips
A nice polish and touch up
The bike was lowered, so given that I'm tall I may raise it
Highway pegs (attached to crash bar?)
New license plate holder
Change all of the fluids (coolant, oil, brakes)


Are there any other preformance or non-preformance mods I should consider?
 
Maybe a few things i'd do different. What's your focus? Speed, Handling, Braking or all the above? Budgetary restrictions? Comfort, Beauty or?
 
Looks good not the one i was thinking of it was laid down and i would have known the pic you got a good deal with all the mods to
 
Next time you see the bike, make sure it is stone cold and see how it starts and runs cold. Discreetly feel the engine to see if he pre-warmed it up soon before you got there. If it's warm, come back another time un-announced to see it run.
A pre-warmed engine can mask symptoms like hard starting, weak ign, carbs getting dirty, valve seal leakage, knocking ect.
 
I'm trying to focus more on handling - I feel like the thing is going to me more than fast enough for me to do whatever dumb things my 20 year old mind tells me not to do!

The braking is fairly important (not sure how good stock is) but I know slowing down is a priority when you have 800 pounds going over 100mph.

Budget is long term so pretend I'm lil wayne, elvis, and johnny cash all at once. Ok maybe not that much, I'd like to keep the total after EVERYTHING under 5k, which leaves 3k in mods, total.

TLDR:

Top: Handling, braking

Low: Speed, comfort, beauty

Also, thanks for the info 1967! And I will do that, Wayne.

Is there any way you guys can tell me if it has a full exhaust vs slip ons based on the pic I sent? I know the receipt for the exhaust was 1100 if that makes it obvious, as well (idk how much 2 holeshots are going for)
 
Talk to Sean Morley about a brake upgrade and progressive springs to start. If I had $3k to spend, I'd get a set of carrozzeria wheels from Sean with a 320mm rotor conversion and run progressive springs front and rear. That would eat your budget, but you'd be riding a completely different feeling bike.

I'm pretty sure that holeshot system is a full system, so a Morley's muscle jet kit and airbox will help you max out the power (that's in phase 2,though). You already have a Corbin seat which you may or may not like. Someone here would buy it and you could get a maxgasser (twistedmax- his name is Rick) or a modded stock seat from Sean. Then you're done... Ish
 
Id vouch for the Carrozzeria rims, but mine are still in the box waiting for rubber, lol. They are beautiful and will definately take some weight off the bike.
 
How much do you think that would run, davesax? If those three things could be done for under 2k I would seriously consider it. How would it handle vs my old 07 CBR or another sport bike after those three things? And I assume it would have a 160 or 170 tire after the rear rim conversion?

Also, glad to hear about the full exhaust thing! Do you think that it already has a stage 7 or Morley's muscle by chance? I mean the guy spent a poop ton of money on it. Is there a way to check? And with velocity stacks I don't believe an air box is necessary (not 100% sure tho?)

I have not ridden it yet, how am I to access the gas tank with that seat though?! Doesn't look like it flips up. And I really like the look of some other seats. It felt alright when I sat on it, though.

Another thing - with the o-ring problem, is it good or bad to see the oil being sucked out of the view finder fastly? Also, fast is reletive, how fast are we talking?
 
I'm Sean by the way. Email me at [email protected].

$2300 Carrozzeria Wheels (Single largest handling upgrade you can make).

Brakes:
Your options:
Front:
Option 1 - DUAL Hayabusa Conversion
$60 - Adapters
$150 - Used 298 mm Rotors (I have some new available as well for varying pricing)
$150 - Pair Used Hayabusa Calipers
$80 ($40 set) - New Pads
*Optional - $110-150 - Pair Brake Lines (or 3 line kit - price varies depending on the option chosen)

Option 2 - SINGLE Hayabusa Conversion:
$40 - Adapter
$175 - 320mm Aftermarket Rotor
$100 - Used Single Hayabusa Caliper
$40 - New Pads
*Optional - $50-$80 - Single Brake Line
The advantage is cheaper cost then doing as a pair and less reciprocating mass for even better handling.

Option 3 - Dual Nissin 4 Piston:
This setup doesn't work as well as the other options but is less expensive and still better then the 2 piston brakes.
$60 - Adapters
Reuse your 280mm Rotors (or get vented aftermarkets we have available)
$50-$150 Used Calipers
$70 ($35 ea) - New Pads
$110-150 - Pair Brake Lines (or 3 line kit - price varies depending on the option chosen)
Some of the listed calipers require longer brake lines depending on if you have a lowered or stock height bike.



Rear:
Option 1 - Relocation Bracket
$45 - Single Relocation Bracket to use OEM caliper with 298mm rotor size.
$100 - Good used OEM 298mm rotor (Other new ones available too).
*Optional - $50-$60 - Braided Brake Line

Option 2 - Hayabusa Conversion
$40 - Single Bracket - You must Modify (I have pics of what to grind for these to fit)
$100 - Good used OEM 298mm rotor (Other new ones available too).
$100 - Single Hayabusa Caliper
$40 - New Pad Set
*Optional - $50-$60 - Braided Brake Line

Option 3 - R1 Conversion
$150 - Custom Rear Brake Mount
$50-$150 - Used R1 Caliper (price depends on year/condition)
$100 - Good used OEM 298mm rotor (Other new ones available too).
$40 - New Pads
*Optional - $50-$60 - Braided Brake Line

I also have good pricing on Shocks/Springs and other chassis parts. Of course I sell about anything you'd ever want for a Vmax.
 
Do you think that it already has a stage 7 or Morley's muscle by chance? I mean the guy spent a poop ton of money on it. Is there a way to check? And with velocity stacks I don't believe an air box is necessary (not 100% sure tho?)

I have not ridden it yet, how am I to access the gas tank with that seat though?! Doesn't look like it flips up. And I really like the look of some other seats. It felt alright when I sat on it, though.

You wont need to worry about a stage 7 or Morleys muscle kit since your bike has been switched over to flatslide carbs judging by the pics. Both of those options are for the stock carbs. One thing to remember with the flatslide carbs, you cant just wack the throttle wide open, youll bog the motor down. You have to learn how to roll the throttle right.

As for gassing it up, the cover thats in the middle of the seat flips up to give you access to the gas tank.
 
Awesome! Is there a jet kit or way to tell which flatside carbs they are?

And that's interesting.. never thought of such an effect, good to know!

Also, thanks for that - I hear being able to purchase gas helps for the long hauls.
 
Since the velocity stacks are facing out, its a good bet that its UFO's vgas setup. Most other flatslide setups face up at the top cover like the stock carbs. Its probably a safe bet that the carbs are already setup well for the bike. I know a fair number of guys here have issues with UFO, and thats a topic for another time and place, but from what ive heard from others with the vgas setup, they come jetted close to ideal with only minor tweaking required. Start running searches for info on those carbs so can get familiar with them. Theres plenty of guys on here that run them that can help you out with questions you may have.
 

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