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TB99Max

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What brand clutch are you guys using? Mines not gone yet but I'm sure there isn't to much life left. What's your opinion on how many hours labor a shop would charge to do one.
 
I'm using the DD clutch mod. Stock steels, stock discs, 2 stock springs.

I dont know, but I would say probably 2 hrs. Here is the link for the DD mod, and even if you go for a barnet clutch....etc, there is still good info in this link.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm
 
Stock Frictions and blasted steels. Stock, Heavy Duty, Barnett, or Double D mod's are all good clutch spring options.
 
Oh wow! That's it?! Thanks man, I appreciate it! I actually have a house now so it would be a little easier. Or I could come to you this time. I'll let you know when I'm ready!
 
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So about a month ago I was out for a ride during a warm spell here and I felt a slip when I went from 3rd to fourth gear, the next day I had forgotten about it, got on the throttle in second and it slipped again. I ordered a set of friction plates from an outfit called Caltric, 50 bucks shipped, with a gasket too.
So far so good, any body heard of Caltric? Oh and I would say it takes longer to drain and refill the oil than it does to do the open clutch surgery. I edited to add the fact that my steel plates were
really smooth and the one at the bottom of the stack had burned, so with the added time of a good scuffing with 36 grit still kept it at about an hour start to finish
Also the plates were ordered on monday evening and got here Friday,USPS !
 

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If you want a stiffer spring i would go with the pcw it is inbetween stock and double d and works great. Imo it is the best bang for the buck and as other people have said stock frictions are the best.
 
Oh wow! That's it?! Thanks man, I appreciate it! I actually have a house now so it would be a little easier. Or I could come to you this time. I'll let you know when I'm ready!

Yep, in reality, doesnt take long at all. What the dealership would CHARGE you, is something else entirely.
 
Yep, I vote for the PCW 'extra-plate' kit w/their heavy-duty diaphragm spring, it ships w/a clutch cover gasket. All you need to do is scuff the 'steelies' and reassemble. They recommend and sell the OEM Yamaha friction discs, and that's what they include in their kits.
 
I have test the dd and pcw and i stuck with the dd because it has a greater punch when going through the gears. I'm not saying the pcw is a bad way to go but i am saying the dd seat of the pants feel is way stronger and more fun. Just know the clutch lever will be stiffer with the dd. If you install the dd i believe rick rash has a support ring to help support the double stacked spring. Some will say don't worry about it but i did it anyhow and my clutch worked great. PCW is a great way to go if you want a good strong clutch without a stiff lever but trust me it is a night and day difference in seat of the pants feel.
 
16mm to take the right footpeg bolts out (2) no need to take the brake pedal of just the spring
19mm to drain the oil and get a gallon of rotella 15w40 and soak the clutches
5mm allen to take the (9) bolts out of the clutch cover-2 longer one go at 9:00 and 2:00 o'clock
10 mm to take the clutch bolts (6)off the pressure plate- and torque back to 5.6 pounds
Simple as pie
If you want me to do it it's (2) beers of your choice, a piece of pie and a franklin-You get the gasket for free.
Get some gascacinch and PM me. Happy to do it Tim.
 

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