Exhaust without re-tuning?

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Bushwacker

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Hey Fella's,

So I was hoping someone could tell me if I can get some good slipons without having to re-tune my bike. 01 Vmax. Really all Im looking for is a better sound than the stock whisper. Not too loud, kinda like running all ninja around the streets without bringing too much attention to myself. But as this is my first Max and I cant get away from re-tuning. What would you recommend for upgrades. Meaning where to start first and then where to finish. Totally want to do it right though, don't want to half a** it.

Thanks much.

Bush
 
Hey Fella's,

So I was hoping someone could tell me if I can get some good slipons without having to re-tune my bike. 01 Vmax. Really all Im looking for is a better sound than the stock whisper. Not too loud, kinda like running all ninja around the streets without bringing too much attention to myself. But as this is my first Max and I cant get away from re-tuning. What would you recommend for upgrades. Meaning where to start first and then where to finish. Totally want to do it right though, don't want to half a** it.

Thanks much.

Bush

Generally slip-ons don't require any carb carb changes at all....except maybe Super Trapps, but not sure on that.

You can get a full system Marks Performance that has great sound and requires only a needle shim.....very simple, 20 minute job to do all 4 carbs.
 
I know that with my Delkevics I didn't have to change a thing and I replaced the headers as well.

From their site : No rejetting or remapping is required after fitment however we always recommend a dyno test after fitting replacement exhaust parts to your motorcycle

And here's how they sound (I still have the baffles in)

https://youtu.be/7WpUWQgOSLQ
 
Nevermind I found them. :)

The slip-ons are a lot cheaper than the full exhaust. I like the way they sound but if I want to go louder I can always take the baffles out, real easy to do. They are made very well and I think they look great on my max.
 
Yes for slip ons, you will not need to rejet.......now that being said, The Vmax actually benefits from going 1 jet size leaner, even with stock exhaust.
 
Yes for slip ons, you will not need to rejet.......now that being said, The Vmax actually benefits from going 1 jet size leaner, even with stock exhaust.

Good to know, what about plugs or anything else? Oh and I have been reading that people are getting a solid performance gain by changing out the stock fork springs for the Progressive Suspension like THESE I weigh between 155 and 165 never go under or over that weight, so I was thinking the stock springs would be okay. However if there is a significant benefit to changing them out then I would probably be all in, this beast as you all know does not handle very well in the corners.

Any other upgrades or suggestions you guys have please let me know and thank you all.

BTW it's :th_fridaay:
 
The Progressives made quite a difference for me, for both comfort and handling. I kept stock height. Theres aftermarket fork braces and frame braces, none of which I have. Radials make a huge difference I hear, I dont have those either. It does fairly well as it sits.
 
Good to know, what about plugs or anything else? Oh and I have been reading that people are getting a solid performance gain by changing out the stock fork springs for the Progressive Suspension like THESE I weigh between 155 and 165 never go under or over that weight, so I was thinking the stock springs would be okay. However if there is a significant benefit to changing them out then I would probably be all in, this beast as you all know does not handle very well in the corners.

Any other upgrades or suggestions you guys have please let me know and thank you all.

BTW it's :th_fridaay:

There are quite a few things that can be done, to make the Vmax handle better, and the FIRST thing to be done is the springs.

Here is the ratings of the stock springs, from Racetechs website. Stock Fork Spring Rate: 0.382 kg/mm

The progressive springs are rated at (from the progressive website) .71/1.16 kg/mm.

Now off of racetech website, (for your weight @ 165) they recommend 0.892 kg/mm

So, yes, at bare minimum, go with the progressive springs (and then set the sag as well)
 
I just un-did what you're trying to do.. Changed out my rusted out stock muffler and headers for a better stock replacement. I just re-seated modified stock baffles back to original design. The previous owner modded them to be louder by taking out the stock rivets, adding a 3 stand-off nuts to each, (about 5mm out), and re-fastening them with threaded posts. It gave me a headache after about 4 hours of riding.

Just something to consider before spending extra cash.
 
I just un-did what you're trying to do.. Changed out my rusted out stock muffler and headers for a better stock replacement. I just re-seated modified stock baffles back to original design. The previous owner modded them to be louder by taking out the stock rivets, adding a 3 stand-off nuts to each, (about 5mm out), and re-fastening them with threaded posts. It gave me a headache after about 4 hours of riding.

Just something to consider before spending extra cash.
Sorry it didn't work out for you D-Max and believe me I am keep the noise thing in mind at all times. My buddy has a 2017 FZ-10 with full custom setup and has been letting me ride it quite a bit. In fact I'm going to be taking it on a 250-mile Tripp one way so I think that will give me a pretty fair idea of what I have to look forward to plus my GSXR was loud as hell as was my old 1340 sporty w/straight pipes. I appreciate you lookin out though. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
No problem at all. Some folks like the noise.. I did find that it got people attention as I got closer to them, so it does have a purpose. I found that it caused extra vibrations, which resulted in my long stem mirrors to blur the cars behind me.. Now, I can read plates at the same RPM, gear and speed. Ride safe..
 
So Ive made up my mind to go with the Delkevic Mini 8" Carbon Fiber Round Mufflers, but first Im going over to EDR Performance and get a few pulls done on the dyno to see where it's at now. Then after the install go back to EDR and see where it's at to see if any tuning needs to be done or not. Talked with Matt at Delkevic and he had some real good info to share, said if anything I may have to fatten it up a bit is all which makes sense.
 
Wrong as in there will more tuning to do than what he say's or the adjustment. Please explain what surprises you. My goal isn't to make a race bike here, but a muscle bike should sound like one and these stock pipes just don't do it justice. So Im wide open to idea's.
 
I think leaning it out is what you need to do after replacing an entire exhaust. Stock main jets are 152.5 Mikunis, for cylinders 1 & 3, and 150 for numbers 2 & 4, info from the USA model VMax factory manual.

Left rear=cyl 1
Left front=cyl 2
Right rear=cyl 3
Right front=cyl 4

Left and right are as you sit on the bike.

I run leaner than stock for a UFO 4/1 full exhaust, Dynojet Stage 7 carb kit, Dyna ignition, COP's, and I kept the VBoost instead of removing it as the Stage 7 says to do.

Jets are cheap, leaning it down would probably help even if you just added non-stock cans and kept the stock header pipes. The factory likes to run a bit rich or 'fat,' because it helps to cool the engine, more-than running lean, which makes it run hotter.

I wouldn't be surprised if Matt is wrong

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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