Mark’s exhaust..FINALLY!! and questions..

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V-Four

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Well, it’s finally happened. Well… happening I guess.
Talked to Mark the other day and he’s whipping me up a 4 into 1 stainless exhaust, 14” can and 2.5 opening (with turndown).


Since August of 2012 when I finally bought a Vmax, I’ve wanted to get rid of these pesky Cobras and get me a real exhaust.

I’ll be rereading all the exhaust threads, even though I think I’ve read and reread most that pertain to a “marks exhaust”.

My questions are:

· Are there any particular issues I should expect replacing the exhaust? The thought of breaking a bolt scares the daylight outa me.
· What exhaust gaskets should I use? OEM?
· Is there any specific tools I should/shouldn’t use on the project? (I thought I read that somebody fashioned a special wrench to get access to the rear bolts.
· Should I replace all the bolts or reuse?

The bike is an 02 with 30,000+ on the clock, but I belive the previous owner left it out doors and uncovered for most of its life, as the cabon fiber was totally trashed when I took ownership back in 2012. (been garaged kept ever since, but MANY frozen bolts so far.- front disk bolts frozen, brake/clutch cover bolts frozen, rear “exhaust cover doohickey bolts were frozen- 1 snapped as I removed to restore.)

Well, I once again turned a simple Q&A into an essay of rambling…

Thanks so much for any and all advice..

T$
 
Use OEM gaskets

You might want to invest in new nuts for the header flanges. You need 8 total. Not a bad idea to soak them down with PB blaster or similar the day before you intend to start. That is the only hardware that will be re-used to install the new Marks exhaust.

The OEM exhaust has some small screws holding the shields on that seem to like to seize in place. Not a big deal if they break other than resale value.

Marks exhaust slips on the bike quite easily. I found no need for high temp RTV on any of the joints.

Forgot to add a note about tools. I cannibalized a 8mm hex key for exhaust install/removal. I cut a piece off about 2.5 inches long and use a small ratcheting wrench to access the nuts on the rear header flanges. On the front header flanges I was able to use a regular socket mounted 8mm hex key to remove the nuts. Other than that, nothing special needed.
 
Use factory gaskets.
Get a stubby 8mm allen wrench and cut off the short end to get it to fit in around those rear exhaust studs.
Use an 8"extension and 8mm 3/8" drive allen for the front ones.
Spray the studs down with PB Blaster or your rust-release of choice.
Post close-ups if you're really worried about it.
 
Cool..
Thanks for the tips...
I havent examined them too closely yet, and u will spray em with pb..maybe several days before the surgery. ;)
Still waitin on delivery, so i got some time.

Thanks
T $
 
I learned something incredibly useful a few winters ago working on Dodge plow trucks (the worst stuck bolts I've ever come across). Mix 1/2 acetone with 1/2 ATF in a spray bottle. Hit the hardware you are worried about a few hours before and let it soak in. Give it a try, I guarantee it will amaze you.

Maybe be careful around painted parts. I'm not sure if it is friendly with paints and coatings.
 
Thanks for the tip..ill try it. If it is bad for paint, then it should be strong stuff. ;)

Also, just wanted to point out that this DOES CONFIRM that mark is still makimg exhaust. I read some (incorrect ) post recently that some guy kept saying he 'thought' mark stopped makimg them. Mark is indeed 'still in gen 1 vmax exhaust business'- for the record. ;)

T $
 
I learned something incredibly useful a few winters ago working on Dodge plow trucks (the worst stuck bolts I've ever come across). Mix 1/2 acetone with 1/2 ATF in a spray bottle. Hit the hardware you are worried about a few hours before and let it soak in. Give it a try, I guarantee it will amaze you.

Maybe be careful around painted parts. I'm not sure if it is friendly with paints and coatings.

Done it myself-good advice-:clapping:
 
Use OEM gaskets

.....You might want to invest in new nuts for the header flanges. You need 8 total. Not a bad idea to soak them down with PB blaster or similar the day before you intend to start. .....




Do you know what size /pitch are they? (Or a p/n to order from somewhere)

Should I go stainless or no?


Thanks,
T$
 
Ordered all i need..i think.

Been soaking in pb for days waitin for delivery...

Should i NOT ride the bike before loosening nuts?
Or should i do heat cycles with the pb...run engine..pb..run..etc?..

What do u think of my nutz? Been soaking them daily ;)
I am totally competent as far as wrenching, sadly for me ..whatever can go wrong absolutely will.

(Murphy is my twin brother..sadly HE is the only one helping me on this journey. )
I 'think' i attached the correct files..?....

Thanks for tips yall.

T $
 

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Ride if you wanna ride. It won't hurt anything. Just smoke a bit.

I'd guess those are gonna come off pretty easily. When you mentioned the PO stored it outside I was expecting a bit more corrosion.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
The dousing w/PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, or whatever else you choose and coupled w/the heat-cool should give you the advantage in disassembly. Those things aren't on there w/much torque, and you're probably worrying for nothing.

Try the front nuts first as they are the most-accessible. The rears, you need that hex key shortened piece to easily engage the female of the header nut. Use a bit of torque, loosen it, and see what's happening, if it feels like it's gonna loosen, use the penetrating oil and continue to remove the nuts. If you encounter resistance, even after dousing w/the penetrating oil, do the 'back & forth' to try to get the nut to release a bit more every time you loosen it. Don't force it, use lubricant, and keep turning it a bit looser each time.

I've been lucky w/them. Once off, you might want to try chasing the threads w/a die for the studs. A tap is for female threaded holes, a die is for male bolts or studs. Remember to use a bit of lubrication, and ensure that you start the die properly so it follows the threads, and doesn't cross-thread because of inaccurate placement. Again, the 'back & forth' method, which allows any rust or whatever to release, is how to approach it. A home enthusiast should have a good set of tap & die pieces. In narrow confines, to use the die, instead of the double-handed die holder, use a socket, probably a deep socket, to allow you to work the die where space is limited, and you have a fastener w/some length to clean-up w/the die.
 
...

I'd guess those are gonna come off pretty easily. When you mentioned the PO stored it outside I was expecting a bit more corrosion.

.....
Cool thanks.
I actually expected a lil more rust myself, based on how quickly one of the "rear exhaust cover" bolts snapped a couple years back.



The dousing w/PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, or whatever else you choose and coupled w/the heat-cool should give you the advantage in disassembly. Those things aren't on there w/much torque, and you're probably worrying for nothing.

Try the front nuts first as they are the most-accessible. The rears, you need that hex key shortened piece to easily engage the female of the header nut. Use a bit of torque, loosen it, and see what's happening, if it feels like it's gonna loosen, use the penetrating oil and continue to remove the nuts. If you encounter resistance, even after dousing w/the penetrating oil, do the 'back & forth' to try to get the nut to release a bit more every time you loosen it. Don't force it, use lubricant, and keep turning it a bit looser each time.

I've been lucky w/them. Once off, you might want to try chasing the threads w/a die for the studs. A tap is for female threaded holes, a die is for male bolts or studs. Remember to use a bit of lubrication, and ensure that you start the die properly so it follows the threads, and doesn't cross-thread because of inaccurate placement. Again, the 'back & forth' method, which allows any rust or whatever to release, is how to approach it. A home enthusiast should have a good set of tap & die pieces. In narrow confines, to use the die, instead of the double-handed die holder, use a socket, probably a deep socket, to allow you to work the die where space is limited, and you have a fastener w/some length to clean-up w/the die.

Thanks for the tips.. I actually had a tap n die set in my hand at the store last week..then I put it back down thinking how often I used the last one I had.. :bang head: Maybe I'll go back and get it.. ;)
 
'Chasing the threads' male and female makes for a better job of assembly. Get some Permatex never-seize and use a light coat on rusty threads after you chased them. Some threads are supposed to be dry (& clean) on assembly, check factory manuals for that.
 
I actually had a tap n die set in my hand at the store last week..then I put it back down thinking how often I used the last one I had.. :bang head: Maybe I'll go back and get it.. ;)

I wouldn't bother messing around with those studs unless they are actually damaged. Sometimes you do more harm than good when you try to fix shit that ain't broke :biglaugh:
 
I wouldn't bother messing around with those studs unless they are actually damaged. Sometimes you do more harm than good when you try to fix shit that ain't broke :biglaugh:

I'll evaluate when I get em off. I do have new nuts coming anyway, that should be here Wednesday.
In the meantime, just waiting for delivery of the exhaust, and new gaskets from Morley (along with my new progressive front springs and well needed seals).. :eusa_dance:.. Just gotta watch the morley fork video about 30 more times..

The waiting almost hurts somehow.. :bang head:
 
I think this is the same Mark that makes a high flow collector for the 1st gen Ventures. I must contact him and see if he can do a 4-1 for those too. I thought he was out of the exhaust game anymore, glad to hear otherwise. His stuff is pretty well regarded.
 
I think this is the same Mark that makes a high flow collector for the 1st gen Ventures. I must contact him and see if he can do a 4-1 for those too. I thought he was out of the exhaust game anymore, glad to hear otherwise. His stuff is pretty well regarded.

Yea, I was nervous when I heard rumor that he stopped making them..until I contacted him the other week. (still waitin for delivery though.. ok, its only been like a week or so..but its killin me).

Kinda funny when I think back on my old view of Kerker being the ONLY exhaust for a max. It was the 1st exhaust I heard back in the 90's I think.
But once I started hearing this "so called" Mark's performance..man I was Hooked :worthy: . I do plan on getting a good recording of these pipes eventually (not just a Cell), I happen to have some decent recording gear, so..well see how that goes. I really don't want to jinx it by recording my cobras just yet.
;)
Holy crap I'm rambling again.. sorry.


In the meantime, my gaskets arrived from Santa Morley a few minutes ago.. (along with a couple other items :eusa_dance: ) but Ill try to keep this exhaust related... so Ill just show the pics of my.. gaskets.. (they're in the pics somewhere):clapping:

Stay Tuned..



T$
 

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I have the Kerker and I love the hell out of it, but thats all I've ever had. IMHO the 4-2-1, 4-1 systems sound way better than 4-2 setups. I've been looking around the Venture frame and it looks like there is no way I'm going to get a Vmax exhaust on it but I really want a 4-1 setup to install with the Vmax heads/cams/intakes.

Make sure you get some good sound files and pics of the Marks setup, cant wait to see it!!
 

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