Rear Wheel Access/Removal

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Trondyne

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Sep 30, 2017
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Location
Pelham, NY
Hey guys,

I need to change the rear tire... This bike has a non stock exhaust (Cobra 4-4) and a non stock wheel... Myself and a couple of friends tried to find a way to get the rear wheel off the ground, but without a center stand we've had no luck so far...

Anyone have experience doing this without a hoist? Perhaps some kind of clever work-around, a way to use a jack or other?

Also this wheel/tire is a 180/55 R18... And although it seems centered the contact area seems to be decidedly off to the left side of the tire...by at least an inch...

Could anyone shed some light on why that would be if the tire is centered or appears to be centered? Is there any way to correct this? Or is this just how the tire tracks when an over-sized wheel/tire is installed?
 
Pickup a Harbor Freight ATV lift (or borrow one) and jack up the bike via the lower frame tubes. You may need a couple of 4x4's to catch the frame. I use another aluminum floor jack to support the rear tire as I drop it. Change the tire and use the floor jack to lift the new tire/wheel up to where you can line up the axle. I have center stand, but it won't help with a tire change.

With a 20 percent coupon, you can get the 1500 pound capacity lift for $72.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-60536.html
 
I have center stand, but it won't help with a tire change.

Why wouldn't the stand work for removing the wheel?

We couldn't find anything to use the jack on... The exhaust is in the way under the bike, he had some kind of fork jack that fits on the ends of the rear axle, I guess, on some bikes but the drive shaft makes that useless...

I wanted to just use some rope and throw it over a beam or tree limb and lift it by the grab bar but we had no rope that day nor a good beam.....

I wish I had a stock exhaust and a center stand... Sheesh...
 
Why wouldn't the stand work for removing the wheel?

It does.

Quite a few folks on here have used an atv jack directly in the exhaust without issue.

If you dont like that idea you could arrange some lumber between frame and jack to make sure yoyre not lifting direct on exhaust.



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
The reason I mentioned 4x4 blocks is same thing [email protected] says - some people use blocking lumber to raise the bike via the frame tubes using an ATV lift. Some just jack the bike with the exhaust pipes sitting directly on the ATV lift rails.

There are other ways to lift the bike, but I think most here that would post suggestions, (a forklift, engine hoist, scissor jack, overhead crane, cargo ratchet straps, cement blocks, floor jack with jack stands) would only offer safe options since no one wants to see you get injured or have the bike come slamming down.

Here is pic of forum member Bill Seward's bike on a lift:
attachment.php
 
The bike was resting on the exhaust with no problems. I use the same Jack to raise the Roadstar off the floor, and can also remove both wheels from it at the same time.
 
A floor jack works. I've used a bottle jack in a pinch. Make sure to block it up secure when up in the air. I still have the H.F. jack my Danny gave me a while ago. It works very well.
 
If you have case-savers on the front of the frame you can jack under the right one w/a scissor jack & balance the bike on the sidestand & the jack. Careful w/the balance. I think the rear brake caliper is gonna need to be removed, the hose can stay connected. Wire the caliper up w/bailing wire. Cribbing under the bike may give you a more-secure balance, but still have it bearing weight on the jack.
 
I put two HD tie downs around my rafters in my garage and then used a regular floor jack for a little help. So put it on the side stand and find a place to start jacking it up near the rear of the bike. Have the tie downs already hooked up and go back and fortbetween the jack and ratcheting tie downs. The jack will want to make the bike go one way or another but the tie downs will keep it upright. Once the jack tries to push it to far one way then I just used the tie downs to lift the rest of the way. I had the same problem with the exhaust (I also have aftermarket) and I wouldn’t feel comfortable putting a jack on it! I would think it would smash it like a soda can. I hope my explanation makes sense!
 
It's not my shop....

My buddy tried to use wood but couldn't find a way he felt was safe to use his floor jacks... The pipes have some rust so he didn't want to put too much weight on those either...

Supposed to try again tomorrow....
 
I put two HD tie downs around my rafters in my garage and then used a regular floor jack for a little help. So put it on the side stand and find a place to start jacking it up near the rear of the bike. Have the tie downs already hooked up and go back and fortbetween the jack and ratcheting tie downs. The jack will want to make the bike go one way or another but the tie downs will keep it upright. Once the jack tries to push it to far one way then I just used the tie downs to lift the rest of the way. I had the same problem with the exhaust (I also have aftermarket) and I wouldn’t feel comfortable putting a jack on it! I would think it would smash it like a soda can. I hope my explanation makes sense!

Yeah he does have tie downs but he said he wants to try to get his hoist working.... Thanks for the idea....
 
Ended up using his hoist and lifted her up by the grab bar...

Nice new Bridgestone Exedra on there...

I still don't understand why the contact area is offset to the left...

I saw a custom Harley in the shop with a huge rear tire that had the same issue...

It seems to me that uneven wear and contact on the rear can't really be good for handling ....

Anyone know what causes that?
 

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