Started my swingarm project...

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srk468

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Just getting going on it, the new wheel & tire combo is 6lbs heavier than my stock wheel and burnt up Shinko but I expected it to be heavier.. everything is going good so far and I'll keep you guys posted about my progress..
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Rim I sent to Kosman and now it's 18"x6" and the tire is a gen 2 vmax tire 200/50-18 so it's the same height as my old 170 Shinko. Definitely gonna take some work to make fit but it's going to look so badass! Kinda sucks I'm adding 6lbs of rotating weight though :bang head:
 
Kinda sucks I'm adding 6lbs of rotating weight though :bang head:

It'll add some straight line/highway stability. Depending on the kind of ridding you usually do, it may not be a bad thing.
 
It'll add some straight line/highway stability. Depending on the kind of ridding you usually do, it may not be a bad thing.

I really can't ride too aggressively because I have a CDL so my licence is my living so mainly I go to the drag strip on Friday nights. I do have an 85 front wheel I'm putting on and I'm ditching one of my rotors so that should help.
 
It looks to me that you gonna need a thick washer on the drive side...

You are right, had a machinist friend of mine make these for me and it will work perfect. Going to put the big one under the cush drive on the wheel and the smaller one will go to keep the space right on the axle shaft between the cush drive and differential.
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Nice coil conversion harness you have there!!

I've had great luck with it, very smart purchase for me! Now I have extra room there for my nitrous solinoids :)

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You are right, had a machinist friend of mine make these for me and it will work perfect. Going to put the big one under the cush drive on the wheel and the smaller one will go to keep the space right on the axle shaft between the cush drive and differential.

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My dear friend

You shouldn't use a spacer in between the "6 feet aracnoid/sprocket" and the wheel, if you notice on the tube that protrudes from the wheel center theres a groove on the tip that lodges the circlip that holds teh aracnoid in place... if you use a spacer the aracnoid will be covering the groove not allowing you to lock it in place and theres also a oring where the aracnoid sits into. I assume you can run it like that after everything is tighten up but i don't think its a good deal because the 6 rods sprocket will be loose. You should have asked Kosman to make the rim even wider on the right and less on the left so you can get tire clearance on the swingarm... Theres also a limit for the washer between the diff and the aracnoid cog... otherwise you may have some teeth snapping off or grinding down if grasping on the tips under accel...
 
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I personally think it will work just fine. The pins are very long and there is a lot of engagement of the inner surface. When the assembly is tightened up all the parts will be locked in place.

Sean
 
I personally think it will work just fine. The pins are very long and there is a lot of engagement of the inner surface. When the assembly is tightened up all the parts will be locked in place.

Sean

That's my assessment as well Sean, I've measured carefully and it will work. Yes I should have had Kosman offset the wheel when I did this but I wasn't willing to remove the rear rim and jig the bike up like I have now to take the proper measurements during the riding season because I was too busy at work and riding. In the meantime I don't have another $700 to do another wheel so it is what it is. The snap ring is irrelevant because when its all bolted together there is no place for it to go just as Sean said, as for the o ring it just covers the aluminum hub of the wheel and there is nothing there to contaminate anyway, all the same I will probably apply some sealant back there just to be sure.


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I forgot to mention the reason I went behind the cush drive was because I was afraid of exactly what you were talking about, hell even the washer swap idea made me nervous so I'm glad I didnt need to when I put the 170 back there. You can space it .250" how I'm doing it but I wouldn't want to go much further for the reasons specified earlier but with where its at now its rock solid and not going anywhere.

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It seems you had everything planned out from the beggining. Disregard my last post then...
 
More progress, its all extended and tacked and off the bike now so now I have to reassemble the whole wheel & hub setup so I can finish weld, then its on to the bracing :)
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A bit of advice... remove the extension tubes you tacked and chanfer them. That prevents for the weld to be superficial and if chanfered the weld will penetrate inbetween the walls for a proper job... Another thing when welding at least get the diff on with the axle tighten to prevent some warping due to thermal expansion and such. Recently on vmaxtech Sean laid some words regarding welding that kind of parts...
 
The material is thin enough that a tight fitting butt weld will be fine. When you get thicker material then a beveled edge allows for multiple passes to get full penetration. For most of the work we do we don't feel a higher level of welding is needed.

That level is a "purge" weld with gas actually run inside the tubes as well. Doing that helps make the internal push through of the penetration actually look like a perfect bead weld too.

Sean
 
If your heat is right with this thickness of material the weld will fully penetrate so a beveled edge isn't really needed. I would have liked the chunks a little tighter but its not bad, I'll make a weld around to fill the small gaps then grind flush then reweld it so with 2 passes it will be stronger than the material itself. I fully planned on jigging the whole thing up, I've done a bunch of chassis work on cars (my 68 Cutlass I backhalved myself and built a 14 point cage and mounted a pinto rack & pinion on it) so I know how much it can move but as always I appreciate the advice :)

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Yes it is kinda thin walled... I was thinking of my custom swingarm when i posted that. Stock is much more flimsy...
 

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