Lowering forks

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bmannon

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my max is a 86 and has air forks on it. the air valve is just under the top tree and clamps around the tube, and has a hose running to the other fork tube. i guess there is a hole w/ a seal in the fork tube under these clamps. is this correct?

if this is the case it seems impossible to lower the forks in the tree. am i missing something :confused2:
 
You're correct. I removed the air joint and then took the forks to get the holes welded closed. I did this because I went to a Racetech setup.
 
a lot of people seem to lower them this way, do they all heve the holes welded or do some maxes not have air forks?

maleko89 said:
You're correct. I removed the air joint and then took the forks to get the holes welded closed. I did this because I went to a Racetech setup.
Click to expand...
 
They all have air forks, only the early models have the air joint. The late models have an air valve on each fork....no joint.
 
I used JB Weld to seal up the air hole in my forks. I'm also running with RaceTech suspension.
 
Taking them to a welder seems a bit extreme.I tapped my holes and ran set screws in flush.
 
shawn kloker said:
Taking them to a welder seems a bit extreme.I tapped my holes and ran set screws in flush.
Click to expand...

Is there enough meat in the fork tubes to drill and tap?

I guess there is if you did it.

I've never really looked at the older forks, does the air hole end up underneath the clamp when you lower the tubes on the trees?
 
shawn kloker said:
Taking them to a welder seems a bit extreme.I tapped my holes and ran set screws in flush.
Click to expand...

Not sure if you were referring to my reply, but JB Weld comes in 2 tubes that you mix together and it hardens into a steel like "substance", for a lack of better word. But it is hard and you can grind it. Just about everyone who uses an off road motorcycle carries this as you can do on trail repairs and it hardens in about an hour.
 
the joint is actually touching the bottom of the upper tree so I am sure it would.

wfcall said:
I've never really looked at the older forks, does the air hole end up underneath the clamp when you lower the tubes on the trees?
Click to expand...
 
I thought that taking them to a weld shop was extreme.Many have JB welded them with no problems.I used set screws with loctite on them.
My forks are lowered internally with lowering blocks 2" and the stiffest race tech springs that they make for the max (1.0's).Lowering the forks with stock springs can lead to a smashed fender and radiator.
Race tech told me that new vmax stock springs are rated at .3 or .4 kgs.A third of the stiffness that I bought and supposedly they get weaker with use.I also prefer 20wt fork oil.No diving and climbing everytime I hit the front brakes or nail it leaving.
 
how much did that cost you?

shawn kloker said:
I thought that taking them to a weld shop was extreme.Many have JB welded them with no problems.I used set screws with loctite on them.
My forks are lowered internally with lowering blocks 2" and the stiffest race tech springs that they make for the max (1.0's).Lowering the forks with stock springs can lead to a smashed fender and radiator.
Race tech told me that new vmax stock springs are rated at .3 or .4 kgs.A third of the stiffness that I bought and supposedly they get weaker with use.I also prefer 20wt fork oil.No diving and climbing everytime I hit the front brakes or nail it leaving.
Click to expand...
 
$80-90,I made the lowering blocks myself from schedule 80 pvc and did all the work.I also got a vmoa discount on the springs.
 
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