What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Where/how do you get adjustable levers to run with our stock master cylinder? My understanding was needed the busa cylinders to get adjustables?

These are the ones that I bought....BUT....I ran into a problem with the 2nd set that I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251006820844?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

First set....everything was great. Right before summer, the bike fell off the lift, and so broke the clutch lever so I ordered a 2nd pair. Shortly after that.....my clutch went out. No big deal.....changed it. Ive done it before.....not an issue. After that, after about an hour....my clutch would start slipping in the lower gears.....and get worse from there. Figured that it was a clogged return hole in the MC....but still the same issue.

So the MC started looking grungy....so changed it to a new one, and all brand new clutch fluid. Ran into the SAME issue. I started doing some investigating. The brand new MC came with a new brass swivel to fit into the stock lever. The whole in it was 7.95 mm deep. The swivel that was INPLACE on the lever had a whole of 6.5 mm deep. So the adjustable lever was compressing the pushrod into the MC, effectively making the clutch slip.

Instead of drilling the whole deeper in the adjustable lever, Sean gave me the idea just to take 2 mm off of the end of the MC pushrod.

Unfortunately ive been gone at work for a couple of weeks, so I havent had the opportunity to try it out.

I would say HOLD OFF on the levers until I get home, and do that, and make certain that it works. once I got everything figured out, I figured that I would do a PSA write-up with pics, incase someone else has the same issue.
 
These are the ones that I bought....BUT....I ran into a problem with the 2nd set that I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251006820844?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

First set....everything was great. Right before summer, the bike fell off the lift, and so broke the clutch lever so I ordered a 2nd pair. Shortly after that.....my clutch went out. No big deal.....changed it. Ive done it before.....not an issue. After that, after about an hour....my clutch would start slipping in the lower gears.....and get worse from there. Figured that it was a clogged return hole in the MC....but still the same issue.

So the MC started looking grungy....so changed it to a new one, and all brand new clutch fluid. Ran into the SAME issue. I started doing some investigating. The brand new MC came with a new brass swivel to fit into the stock lever. The whole in it was 7.95 mm deep. The swivel that was INPLACE on the lever had a whole of 6.5 mm deep. So the adjustable lever was compressing the pushrod into the MC, effectively making the clutch slip.

Instead of drilling the whole deeper in the adjustable lever, Sean gave me the idea just to take 2 mm off of the end of the MC pushrod.

Unfortunately ive been gone at work for a couple of weeks, so I havent had the opportunity to try it out.

I would say HOLD OFF on the levers until I get home, and do that, and make certain that it works. once I got everything figured out, I figured that I would do a PSA write-up with pics, incase someone else has the same issue.
As always, appreciate it Eric

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This weekend I rode to the Rockstore, around the Santa Monica Mountains, and through my neighborhood (quietly?) with my new Kerker 4-1 and progressive suspension. Also added a flat handlebar, bar-end mirrors and an adjustable sidestand (which doesn't quite go low enough!).

Yes, I had fun.

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A Short Video highlighting the results :biglaugh:: https://youtu.be/Nfik_8aeBFw
 
That's a clean-lookin' ride BorgBiker. I like the minimally-modded bikes the best, by that I refer to the external appearance. The hairy ones are entertaining, but I just like the original appearance, I think it's timeless. You can know nothing of motorcycles, but when you see this in-person, you just know what it's designed to do. Kinda like this American classic one-off, anyone know it's famous name w/o googling it? I've seen it in-person, and it's no doubt what its purpose is.

ClickHandler.ashx


The wheels set it off nicely. Sean could use it for an ad!
 
Thanks, Fire-Medic!

I agree, I didn't want to make it into something it isn't. I wanted to do my take on a modern version of the max, kinda a 20 years later update on the "Takin' It To The Nines" bike from the Cycle World article from '86 or '87. Still have some things to do, but it's all detail stuff, like rear sets (not too drastic, I'm surf-shopping right now), maybe chromed engine nuts and bolts, A Morley Muscle Seat and a set of Sean's Chromed Scoops. I somehow managed to split the front of my front fender with the front wheel chock, so I took the plunge and ordered Extraceps's carbon front fender. The tank and rear fender will be next. So looks like I'll be going from faux carbon fiber to real carbon fiber. And more money to the Mod Monkey! All hail King Mod Monkey!

Oh, and surprisingly I have no clue about that car. Can't recall ever seeing anything like it, and I've seen a few cars in my time...



That's a clean-lookin' ride BorgBiker. I like the minimally-modded bikes the best, by that I refer to the external appearance. The hairy ones are entertaining, but I just like the original appearance, I think it's timeless. You can know nothing of motorcycles, but when you see this in-person, you just know what it's designed to do. Kinda like this American classic one-off, anyone know it's famous name w/o googling it? I've seen it in-person, and it's no doubt what its purpose is.

ClickHandler.ashx


The wheels set it off nicely. Sean could use it for an ad!
 
BB, the car was purpose-built for racing by a wealthy American in the early 1950's & has an iconic American powerplant. It & he (his family) came from the Midwest USA, though his road cars were built in FL. A 'gentleman/sportsman,' I believe he would have been called, like Peter Revson (of Scarab racing automobile fame, the Scarab was designed by the same guy who designed the Shelby Cobra coupe, Phil Remington), but more successful. He also built road cars besides this one-off racer. Here's one of his road cars, see any resemblances to a certain TX failed chicken farmer/auto racer/car builder's later product? This car is as-old as I am, and was the first road-going sports car built by the person in-question's company.

ClickHandler.ashx


Notice the super-clean lines, not even any outer door handles. Chunky tires perfectly filling the wheelwells, beautiful spoke wheels, and the trademark eggcrate grille which personifies this particular manufacturer's cars on road or track.

Here's a period pic of the Scarab getting ready to do battle. Dig those trick magnesium Halibrand wheels! And, the Bell RT (or its more-expensive brother, the Magnum) open-face helmet. Back then, it was customary to wear goggles and a bandana across your nose & mouth w/those open face helmets.

ClickHandler.ashx
 
Fitted my Kolpin bar mitts today to prep for cold weather riding. I also hooked up the wire for my heated jacket liner. I'm staying warm.

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Parked bikes for winter. Need to go thru my parts on hand and make a list and see what all needs to be ordered for the spring. Planning on extending my shed another 6 foot wide so I will have enough room to park and work on both bikes...asked Santa for a new back tire for the 95. Found the issue with my rear foot brake light, just adjusted it out and that fixed it. Front market will have to wait for a while, no power to bulb. Ran fuel out of both bikes, will hook up battery tenders this week... Oh and Happy Thanksgiving to everyone... Day late but now I said it...


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Ordered a Koso Rx2N and picked up a fiberglass repair kit to get moving on some off season changes.
 
I have the fzr 1000/yzf 750 6 pot calipers. I currently run them with the stock master cylinder, wavey rotors, steel braided lines stock length. They stop amazingly well. I also have adjustable levers.

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Are your front rotors stock 1993+ diameter?

I just got some 6-pot Sumitomos from a 1997 YZF750R. They are being shipped. Hopefully it is direct bolt-up because my rotors are new stock diameter and weren't exactly cheap.

Thanks.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448780577.441464.jpg


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Are your front rotors stock 1993+ diameter?

I just got some 6-pot Sumitomos from a 1997 YZF750R. They are being shipped. Hopefully it is direct bolt-up because my rotors are new stock diameter and weren't exactly cheap.

Thanks.

View attachment 51419


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Yep, originally I ran the 6 pot calipers with the stock rotors, and then about 4 months later swapped to the wavy rotors that I have now. As long as the rotors are the same size as the stock 298 mm, they will work.

I will say this, the rotors that I got were NOT countersunk (rotor holes beveled) like the stock rotors. I put the rotors on, and was amazed at the lack of space between the bolt head, and the lower end of the fork. I grabbed some feeler gauges and got with Sean. I had .005 clearance on one side and .008 clearance on the other. Sean said that as long as my front wheel bearings were in good shape...that clearance wouldnt be an issue....and he was right. Ive been running the rotors like that for about 2 years now.

Something else for the Mod monkey to consider....Sean sells an adapter to allow you to run a bigger (298) rotor on the rear.....which you can do with the stock caliper and stock rear wheel (its snug, but can be done). I did it with the stock rear wheel, but the only pic that I could find was with the RC wheel.
 

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Thanks Traumahawk. I am actually doing a slightly different rear upgrade. I am going to a 298mm rear (to match the front) and an R1 caliper. I am currently waiting on the new brake stay to be machined but have everything else (attached photo). Hopefully, this makes the rear brake a little less wooden. Thanks again.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448808233.418045.jpg


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Thanks Traumahawk. I am actually doing a slightly different rear upgrade. I am going to a 298mm rear (to match the front) and an R1 caliper. I am currently waiting on the new brake stay to be machined but have everything else (attached photo). Hopefully, this makes the rear brake a little less wooden. Thanks again.
View attachment 51423


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That will be a good looking set up. Let me know how it works out. Ive thought about getting rid of the stock rear caliper, and putting a 6 pot caliper to the rear (to match the front)....but I dont know if that will be "too much"....you know?
 
That will be a good looking set up. Let me know how it works out. Ive thought about getting rid of the stock rear caliper, and putting a 6 pot caliper to the rear (to match the front)....but I dont know if that will be "too much"....you know?


I know....I thought the same thing. Those 6-pots are hard to find though. I've never run into a brake that is too powerful. The more power, the easier it is to control, in my experience. I had a Beringer 310mm/6 piston super moto kit on my KTM. Everyone said: too much braking for dirt. I found that I could modulate with 1 finger and have total control. Same thing with Ducatis I've ridden. Too powerful is just enough.


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