Winter checklist: Paint prep and color.

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It would be cool if you did a little writeup on the process.

Show pics of products used and some photos of each step and the final outcome.

Good luck. I know I would need it!
 
I have the body panels, tank and fenders off, hoping to get them cleaned, sanded and primered before Monday. Pics being taken of course.

I have a couple stupid questions that will help me prep the pieces correctly.

1. I think I'm going to paint the lower portion of the side panels and leave the upper part alone. So I would like to mask the upper part and spray the lower part and then go over the entire piece with the glossy clear coat. Should I remove the Vmax emblem, spray the clear and replace the emblem or just go over it emblem and all. OR, maybe just clearcoat the painted portion only and do nothing to the upper part of said side panel.

2. There are Yamaha emblems on the sides of the faux tank. I would like to reuse these emblems to keep it as OEM looking as possible. Are you guys pitching these things or masking them off? I was thinking to remove it with heat and fishing line, paint and clear coat and then put the emblems back over the clearcoat. Is this the correct way? if so what can I use to reattach these emblems solidly. I have used trim adhesives in the past and none of them impressed me very much. Product recommendations for adhesives to make sure it never falls off in the rain or under the hot sun?

A search didn't show me anything and I'm a novice so hoping to hear how you more skilled gents dealt with this. Thank you!
 
I've used 3M double-sided tape you get in auto trim shops, I dunno if the formulation would be any different from what you get at H Depot/Lowe's. Trim it to shape w/a new Xacto blade or single-sided razor blade, for complex shapes, or just use a pair of scissors for simple shapes. I've also used the 3M super weatherstripping adhesive, never had that bond fail, but it's a bit messy.
 
I left the tank badges on mine and just taped them off when I had it painted.
I didn't paint the side covers though.
I liked the way the black on them matches my scoops and blends in well with the bike as a whole.
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Thanks guys. I'll go with that, I dont recall ever being disappointed by a 3M product.

Nice bike DMAN, I like the colors. I'll be doing my side panels that way but with the blue.
 
Ok, the tank emblems came off easy with a putty knife. I see there is a recess on the underside so using some two sided bonding tape should be ideal for this.

Here is a pic of the paints. The base color is something they put into the can so the pic might be useless for that. I believe he said it was an enamel, I'll find out so that I can present an accurate write-up.

I'll be letting the GooGone work on the sticky stuff then I'll break out the 400 grit and sand today and smooth out a couple small gouges. I have another project going on over here and I have no space to organize much less spray so tomorrow I'll spray primer and maybe paint in a friends garage.

This piece in the second pic is broken. It holds the fender into the forks, whats it called? I'll search out a replacement and hopefully have it ready to go together next week. Due to space constraints time will be a factor in getting this back together.

Thanks guys.
 

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I see it for $147 and I see the Voodoo for around $55-ish in Amazon and Ebay. There is an OEM one on Ebay for $30 shipped, feeling like that might be hard to beat.

I still have the OEM rims and bias ply tires (880s), not likely to upgrade considering the cost involved. I'm going to install the Progressive fork springs and new oil tonight if I can make some room, given these mods would it be a waste of money to buy the Voodoo and expect it to help with handling in any way? If theres no advantage on my setup I would like to stick with the OEM part but if there is something to be gained with an otherwise stock-ish bike I'll go aftermarket.
 
I put the Voodoo fork brace on about a year after I installed my Progressive fork springs and to be honest I didn't notice any difference from the stock fork brace.
But it is a lot thicker than the stock brace so I'm sure it helps a little.
 
I put the Voodoo fork brace on about a year after I installed my Progressive fork springs and to be honest I didn't notice any difference from the stock fork brace.
But it is a lot thicker than the stock brace so I'm sure it helps a little.

It sounds like OEM will work just fine. Thanks for all the input on this, much appreciated.

EDIT: He had an OBO listing so I offered $25 and got it. Others are listed for upwards of $50. Nice, and thanks again for the fast info, now I can get the part quickly and hopefully get her together sooner.
 
Question about painting the YAMAHA cast into the scoops.

I'm stripping off the old clear coat and would like to use the base color but not sure if it's better to dance it in with a small brush or mask it off and spray it, following up with the 400 grit to remove over spray before applying the clear coat. I plan to use the same two part clear coat on the scoops that I have ready to go over the paint.

I'm waiting to wet sand the primer then I'll be ready to spray the base coat.
 
I'd mask off and spry the letters.
That just seems like the easiest way to do it to me.
But if you have a really steady hand maybe brushing would be easier for you.
 
Question about painting the YAMAHA cast into the scoops.

I'm stripping off the old clear coat and would like to use the base color but not sure if it's better to dance it in with a small brush or mask it off and spray it, following up with the 400 grit to remove over spray before applying the clear coat. I plan to use the same two part clear coat on the scoops that I have ready to go over the paint.

I'm waiting to wet sand the primer then I'll be ready to spray the base coat.

I did mine using an artist's brush, using black enamel paint from a can.
Masking off the letters would tend to test my patience.
Paint from a can drys much more slowly than spray paint, giving you the time to wipe away any paint which touches the raised section of the scoop body. A very gentle wipe with a cleaning rag does a good job. Not pressing too hard assures that the rag doesn't go into the recessed lettering.
Small spots of paint remaining on the raised surface are best left to dry, then scraped off using a thin piece of plastic.
If you do the scoops this way, make certain the paint used is compatible with the two-part clearcoat.
Cheers!
 


I did mine using an artist's brush, using black enamel paint from a can.
Masking off the letters would tend to test my patience.
Paint from a can drys much more slowly than spray paint, giving you the time to wipe away any paint which touches the raised section of the scoop body. A very gentle wipe with a cleaning rag does a good job. Not pressing too hard assures that the rag doesn't go into the recessed lettering.
Small spots of paint remaining on the raised surface are best left to dry, then scraped off using a thin piece of plastic.
If you do the scoops this way, make certain the paint used is compatible with the two-part clearcoat.
Cheers!

I bought it all from the same place and same sales rep who seems to posses extensive knowledge, so I hope it goes well. I'm spraying right now, I masked the outside of the word YAMAHA instead of each letter, and will let it dry really well and go back over it with 400 grit or scrape it off with a single edge.

My paint booth fell through today, I'm having to take a stab at it in my sunroom and its FAR less than ideal with dog hair, dust and dirt. Pics later for sure and hopefully they will all be happy pics. This is a roll of the dice today.
 
Here it is. I started by sanding it rough with 400 grit, I used some Bondo Spot Putty & Glaze stuff, one part stuff in a tube. Tough but not to difficult to work with, I was able to fill in a couple chips and a gouge on the rear fender. I rinsed it well in the sink and once dry I gave it a quick wipe with a clean rag dampened with alcohol.

I shot with the primer, I had only one can and it was barely enough for a mist coat and 3 heavier coats. I let it dry overnight and hit it with 600 in the sink until it was smooth as glass. I overworked a couple small areas along the creases/corners and started to see the black pop through in a couple places. So yea, if your a novice like me dont overwork it. Primer smoothes up quickly without much effort but I carefully went over every part of each surface to make sure I missed nothing. I found a few spots on the 2nd check.

Dried again overnight, quick wipe down with damp cloth (water, not alcohol) and after a few minutes I sprayed the color, first in a fine mist then three more normal coats 10-15 minutes apart. I had two cans of paint and both are almost gone, one can would have been well short of enough so count on at least two paints and one primer for coverage. I have yet to spray the clearcoat so I'll post what I have so far. I was afraid the color was lighter than I wanted but I'm warming up to it quickly, if it looks as good on the bike as it does on the bench I'll be happy! I will likely spray the clear tomorrow.
 

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Coming along really nicely, Mr. Jones. Looks and sounds like you got some great advice from the vendor/painters. ALWAYS best to pick the brains of those with the hands-on experience.
Betcha know now why they say that painting is 90% preparation.
Looking forward to seeing the finished results.
Cheers!
 
Here it is. I started by sanding it rough with 400 grit, I used some Bondo Spot Putty & Glaze stuff, one part stuff in a tube. Tough but not to difficult to work with, I was able to fill in a couple chips and a gouge on the rear fender. I rinsed it well in the sink and once dry I gave it a quick wipe with a clean rag dampened with alcohol.

I shot with the primer, I had only one can and it was barely enough for a mist coat and 3 heavier coats. I let it dry overnight and hit it with 600 in the sink until it was smooth as glass. I overworked a couple small areas along the creases/corners and started to see the black pop through in a couple places. So yea, if your a novice like me dont overwork it. Primer smoothes up quickly without much effort but I carefully went over every part of each surface to make sure I missed nothing. I found a few spots on the 2nd check.

Dried again overnight, quick wipe down with damp cloth (water, not alcohol) and after a few minutes I sprayed the color, first in a fine mist then three more normal coats 10-15 minutes apart. I had two cans of paint and both are almost gone, one can would have been well short of enough so count on at least two paints and one primer for coverage. I have yet to spray the clearcoat so I'll post what I have so far. I was afraid the color was lighter than I wanted but I'm warming up to it quickly, if it looks as good on the bike as it does on the bench I'll be happy! I will likely spray the clear tomorrow.
Looking nice!!!! I did mine like Miles says with a fine brush and I agree with the 400 grit- NO SCRAPING.
 
Thanks. I cant see any flaws in the paint and it seems uniform. I cant spray the clearcoat today, my state of the art ventilation system (cracking the door) may not work well with the cold wind and snow flying. The anticipation is killing me though.
 
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