A/f screw extraction results

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eVMAX

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Has anyone successfully extracted a frozen air/fuel mixture screw out of the carburetor? I have seen a lot of people post about their future attempts but I have not seen any results or follow up on the technique used with exception to Sean's. I currently have one stripped and frozen screw. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
For the frozen screw, get some PB blaster, spray it into the hole, and WALK AWAY for a couple of hours. You have to give it time to work. Then, get a proper size screw driver, and remember to turn to the left.

Ive had screws that were tight to the point where it felt like they could start stripping, and they loosened up amazingly well.
 
Thanks for the response. This one is stripped by PO but not completely, just a small bit of screw head to grab. I have a proper fitting screwdriver and have soaked in PB for 24 hrs. It still isn't budging. I will have to extract with screw extractor as a last resort. Any success with extraction?
 
If you have a dremel cut with a sharp diamond head bit --a standard head left to right motion deeper into the slot. You have about 1/2 inch of depth on an a/f screw head. As Eric stated WD_40 or PB blaster first. Clean the excess with a q-tip and wd-40 before extracting. Also clean that o-ring from the lubricant asap.
 
Something like this but diamond tipped Blaxmax?
 

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I would be happy to ship the dremel and a few bits if you need- It would cost a around $10 shipping for both ways---let me know.
 
Thanks for the offer! I have the Dremel just need the bit, could you direct me to where/what bit to purchase With a link?
 
What I do is get a drill bit that fits the tunnel tight. 1/4" I believe will do it. This will give you a perfect center. Then I use a smaller than the mixture thread drill and drill through leaving just a shell. Tap an easy out in. I like the tapered type for this. I like to put the easy out in a vice and turn the Carb body.
The pointed part of the needle will separate from the threaded part after drilling. It will come out with a couple of taps. The threads are the part that seize. Run a thread chaser through the threads for good luck. 100% success rate doing it this way,so far.
Steve-o
 
I appreciate all of the feedback. I'll be pulling every trick in the book this weekend and report on results.
 
And because the alloy of the carb body is what I think is called, "german silver," it doesn't take heat very well. This might be a time when you use either a heat gun, or a short time in the oven.

I wonder if a pot of boiling water might help get things moving? Perhaps w/some type of insulator on the bottom so the carb isn't in direct contact w/the pot bottom? That could even be some 12 AWG solid CU wire, bent to make a thick lattice where the carb was 1/2" or more off the floor of the pot? A "Wifely Survival Tip" is to NOT use one of her kitchen utensils! Visit your local thrift store, they have a great selection of pots, probably for a buck or two, and a pair of tongs too.
 
Use Steve's method to centre and securely fix the carb body then use a smaller left hand drill, i.e. turns anti-clockwise, which will hopefully pull the remaining thread out with it.
 
What I do is get a drill bit that fits the tunnel tight. 1/4" I believe will do it. This will give you a perfect center. Then I use a smaller than the mixture thread drill and drill through leaving just a shell. Tap an easy out in. I like the tapered type for this. I like to put the easy out in a vice and turn the Carb body.
The pointed part of the needle will separate from the threaded part after drilling. It will come out with a couple of taps. The threads are the part that seize. Run a thread chaser through the threads for good luck. 100% success rate doing it this way,so far.
Steve-o

A center drill is best for starting out, to get that good center with a steep angle to guide your next larger drill bit. I've used my small mill for it since I bought it, but have done it by hand carefully. There is quite a bit of room before you hit the needle seat, but careful is the way to go. A drill stop or even tape on the drill will help you. Also, drilling it in steps is safest. A counter sink on backwards makes a nice drill stop.
 

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