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gamorg02

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I have a (non-vmax) front caliper bracket i need 2mm shaved down on the mounting surface. It may possibly also need some material removed from between those spots if its higher than the mounting points.

IMAG1246.jpg


I may have a local shop that can do it but they get backed up, but was curious if anyone on the forum has experience/access with a mill and see what you think you'd want to do it.

Thanks!
 
Garrett, Im not a machinest, but if you want to use my bridgeport your more then welcome to it.
 
Garrett, Im not a machinest, but if you want to use my bridgeport your more then welcome to it.

mighty fine offer from you rick, but i wouldn't even know where to begin on how to use it! i wouldn't want to waste too much of your time, but is it something we could walk thru together?

Time right now is at a minimum unfortunately, so i'm definitely going to talk with the local shop(s) to see if they can bang it out quick, so i'll let you know as well.
 
That's really soft material Garrett, you could chuck an end mill up in your drill press and shave 2mm off pretty easily, I would think.

i agree danny.

problem being is its for a caliper so keeping it equal is key, if it gets off at all its my braking ability thats at risk ya know?

I'm hoping the local motorcycle machine shop (rick stetson) or maybe one other shop can just blast it out quick and inexpensively.
 
i agree danny.

problem being is its for a caliper so keeping it equal is key, if it gets off at all its my braking ability thats at risk ya know?

I'm hoping the local motorcycle machine shop (rick stetson) or maybe one other shop can just blast it out quick and inexpensively.

Yeah, precision is critical....a dial indicator would take care of that but it is some dicking around....and it's something Rick Stetson does every day....peice of cake for him.
 
The pads will compensate with wear fairly quickly for any mismatch. You just don't want to have it where the caliper is off center far enough to grind on the inside surfaces (there are very small protrusions that allow for a visual alignment).

Sean
 
Yeah, precision is critical....a dial indicator would take care of that but it is some dicking around....and it's something Rick Stetson does every day....peice of cake for him.

Dial indicator? Probably be eaiser to mic the height all the way around vs what it was yea?




The pads will compensate with wear fairly quickly for any mismatch. You just don't want to have it where the caliper is off center far enough to grind on the inside surfaces (there are very small protrusions that allow for a visual alignment).

Sean

Hmmm good to know. Thanks sean.
 
Garrett, Im not a machinest, but if you want to use my bridgeport your more then welcome to it.

Oh my... Theres a portuguese saying that translated says the following: God gives nuts to those who are toothless
Thats a machine i'd love to have at home... I already have a lathe but that would just be the cherry on top... :biglaugh:
 
Oh my... Theres a portuguese saying that translated says the following: God gives nuts to those who are toothless
Thats a machine i'd love to have at home... I already have a lathe but that would just be the cherry on top... :biglaugh:


I use it just not to its potential, but for $400 I couldn't pass it up!
 
If it were me, I have no problem setting up along the disc sander and taking that sucker down. Guess all those years of building airplanes made me bold or stupid. As they said, material is soft and will go quick.
 
I have nothing to do with this :)

Thus good advice :)

if i had more confidence in my drill press maybe. the chock fell off it not long ago as well. its my grandfathers so i put it back on but not 100% on its ability to hold still.
 
Be careful as you may brake the end mill and injure yourself. I avoid using end mills on standard chucks. Better to use a proper collet, in that case you also prevent the end mill binding on cutting material and sliding on chuck causing a hazardous situation.
 
haha still not planning on doing this myself gents. just feel better having the shop do it is all.
 
Be careful as you may brake the end mill and injure yourself. I avoid using end mills on standard chucks. Better to use a proper collet, in that case you also prevent the end mill binding on cutting material and sliding on chuck causing a hazardous situation.

Sorry but every machinist I know including me would be laughind hearing your
comment...Im in this buisness since middle school so...almost 15 yeras...


if i had more confidence in my drill press maybe. the chock fell off it not long ago as well. its my grandfathers so i put it back on but not 100% on its ability to hold still.
I would recommend giving this to a machine shop :)
 

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