More Bling Polishing

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OK- On the HF polishing motor you have two spacers. These go in the shaft FIRST, then the inside backing plate for the wheels. The wheels have too big holes but dome with a couple of cheap stamped adapters. You have to use those adapters and the small one will nest inside the big one. Look at the triangle indents on the bigger one to see how they go together. Remember the rased side of the adapters go INSIDE the wheels.


Craig


Thanks. So maybe I'm missing something. I have the 2 per side "cups" and a nut. Backing plates? don't think I have. With the pads, I got the large and small adapters, but there's no way the small ones are going on the 5/8 shaft. I've tried using the 2 bigger ones. I put the cup on, with taper towards the machine, then the larger adapter, then the pad, which the hole is still too bog for this adapter, then the other adapter (indent facing in). I hold the pad as centered as I can and add the last cup with taper out and then the nut. I hand tighten only as it's not possible to get it any tighter (you can't put a wrench on the other side's nut as I've seen on grinders, because on this machine both nuts tighten/loosen in the same direction). I turn the machine on and as soon as the RPMs build the pad goes way off center and it shakes the whole table. I turn off the machine, call it a MF POS and go back in the house....

Nope, not even gonna try the scoops. That's sure to be out of my league. will be getting chrome ones.
 
I have a chrome like powder coat I am going to go my scoops in this year. Chrome is nice, but expensive and requires alot of attention for "show" purposes.

I ll see if I can dig up a picture of what Craig is talking about. But either way, once you get the buffing wheel finger tight, hold the buff and give the nut a slight twist with a wrench, thats all you need. No 80 ft lbs of torque necessary.

Todd

PS thanks for the kind words.
 
OK lets try this again. When you took the motor out of the box, it had four big washers and two nuts. Unless your is different then mine, you also had two spacers (sorta short tubes) Those are spacers. You put one spacer on each side. Then you put one of the big washers on each side.

Now the part that I think is screwing you up. On a 5/8 shaft you don't need the small adapter (mine has 1/2" shaft) so take a polishing wheel take one of the cheap adapters into the polishing wheel WITH THE TAPER FACING IN. Do the same on the other side again with the taper going into the wheel. this means the adapters will be real close together on the inside. Slip that on the shaft and then the big washer and the nut. I don't even use a wrench to tighten the nuts.

The spacers you put on the inside of the washers is so you can take it off and use 2 wheels on one side.

If you still can't get it, send me your address and I send you a couple of adapters to go inside the wheels - but you shouldn't need this.

BTW I use a perment marker to label each wheel so I know what compound is on it. I do not recommend using the same wheel with different compounds.

Hope this helps!

Craig
 
OK lets try this again. When you took the motor out of the box, it had four big washers and two nuts. Unless your is different then mine, you also had two spacers (sorta short tubes) Those are spacers. You put one spacer on each side. Then you put one of the big washers on each side.

Craig

No got. Like you said, yours might be different, but I'd think if I had those, I'd be good to go. I'll give them a call and see if mine is missing hardware.

Thanks again guys.
 
OK, don't worry about the spacers- you don't need them. You ha 2 "cups" per side. Put one on the shaft the the dome toward the motor. Now take the bigger of the adapters that came with the wheel and put that into the wheel- the dome gos INSIDE the pad. Now the other large adapter This is the reverse of the first- put it inside the wheel the hight points from each of the large adapters should almost touch inside the wheel. now the other cup with the dome to the outside and of course the nut.

==== ( >II < ) == H
 
OK, don't worry about the spacers- you don't need them. You ha 2 "cups" per side. Put one on the shaft the the dome toward the motor. Now take the bigger of the adapters that came with the wheel and put that into the wheel- the dome gos INSIDE the pad. Now the other large adapter This is the reverse of the first- put it inside the wheel the hight points from each of the large adapters should almost touch inside the wheel. now the other cup with the dome to the outside and of course the nut.

==== ( >II < ) == H

Yep, that's what I've been trying to do from the beginning. But the adapters just barely go over the threads and won't go onto the shaft...so I can't get it to tighten up. I'm going to try different pads that are already 5/8 diameter. Thanks.
 
Why don't you PM me your mailing address. I send you something so you don't have to throw out those wheels you have.
 
Got the foot peg brackets done today.. The water pump cover was some thing I wanted to show that anyone that owns a max can do with the right compounds and wheels and a cheap buffer $90.00 from Harbor fright tools.. I spent less than 10 minutes on the pump cover and it was very very oxidized. no sanding was done.. heck I didnt do nothing but grab and put it to the wheel.. just wanted to show you how you can make it shine easy.. To do it right ..yeah you should clean it and keep all the harsh trash out of your buffing wheel use all 3 stages of compounds the first stage does the hard work the next 2 stages just makes it really shine and takes all the scratches and haze out.. you can not do this stuff good with a DRILL or bench grinder.

Nice work, I did the polishing on my old kz1000... I had to clear coat them to keep from polishing them up all the time.

good job.
 

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