OE Style 18" wheel options - Experience?

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scottybaccus

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I am inching closer to pulling the trigger on a rear wheel for my 2003 Vmax. I currently have the OE machine finish/clear coated wheels. I am looking at the rear, alone, because I just don't have a budget of $2k+. I can swing something south of $1500, though, so this leaves me sorting out a set of used sportbike wheels (it's looking like a bigger pain than it probably is), or I can just buy a wheel that matches my OE front wheel.

My question is this: What are the advantages or disadvantages of the three main options for a matching wheel? What are your first hand experiences?
The three in question are the UFO MaxDaddy, Blue Ridge Mountain MaxSport, and the Mad Max wheel (claimed to be 12 lbs?)

So fire away, Thx!

I have noted that the MaxSport is a two piece wheel, while the UFO and Mad Max wheels appear to be one piece. Unsure if this matters to me.
 
I have the RC wheel, which is who Ive heard makes the Max Daddy wheel. GREAT wheel, although its a little bit heavy at 40 lbs shipped.
 

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Not sure about the 18" wheel from UFO but I had the 17" rear wheel and had no problems what so ever , a little heavy as Traumahawk mentioned but no problems , I loved it left the stock front wheel with the 17" rear and the bike felt like it was on rails!!! I had my suspension set up for my size and weight also but no other mods done to the bike and stuck in the curves like a slot car , biggest improvement for the money was getting Radials for the bike imop.
 
I have a set of magnesium dymags if that interests you.
 

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I dunno how important it is that the wheels match. If you just get a Kosman rear and run a narrow radial on the stock 18" wheel, you should be able to have a modded rear wheel in 17 or 18" X 5.5" and re-use your stock front, and be able to only spend $600 or thereabouts for the wheel. Tires? Well, when you have to replace 'em, that's a wash. You should be able to get 'em mounted to your wheels, balanced, on sale for about $225 if you shop a bit, and reinstall them yourself. just don't go too-wide and you should be good for swingarm clearance. I would call 190 'too-wide,' for the rear. If you run a 170, there should be no issues, maybe a washer swap for the 180, but why make things difficult? Are you gonna notice the difference between a 170 and a 180? Aesthetically, maybe, but in function, I would bet, no.

You don't have to spend $1500+ for wheels, just do the rear and use the $1000 you save on a complete set on getting something else for your bike, or leave the $ in your bank account, for something to do at the house which needs it, to keep the peace. That always helps.
 
Thanks guys. Everything you've said is consistent with what I've learned so far.
Additional input welcome!

Fred, pm me details. I might be interested.
 

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