Sticking starter button
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Diablotin
Well-Known Member
Ur totally right. That's how are behaving my projectors. Same bulbs but different projectors and so different range and pattern.
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Diablotin
Well-Known Member
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
The gauge lights are on the same circuit as the taillight, and the front running lights. Are they still working? If so......
post a diagram of your HID installation modification. Might clue someone in as to what the problem(s) is.
Cheers!
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
That pesky starter button has been the source of lots of electrical problems lately, for different forum members.
Think I'm gonna go lubricate mine, right now.
Glad you found your problem. Just another example of looking for the simple things first!
Cheers
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
That's what I did, except with dual H7 bulbs.
I was lucky the scoops I have had plenty of room for the relays and ballasts.
fmcandrew
Well-Known Member
Can the 55W kit be used on the Max?
My HID light. And some noise just because. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyJThsIqWsw&feature=youtu.be http://youtu.be/5XFQtjQUyQ4
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Yes it can, a couple members here have it installed. I have the 55w kit waiting until I can get my bike where I can work on it easily.
Diablotin
Well-Known Member
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
:rofl_200::clapping::rofl_200:
speedcostsmoney
Well-Known Member
starter button when pressed cancels the 12 volts going to the headlight to maximize the voltage going to the starter , to make sure your engine starts without putting a strain on your electrical wiring
maxrom
Well-Known Member
In fact the thing is;
Never ad amp to the original wiring, as much in automotive as on motorcycle.
On our Max the starter button as a tiny brass connector that goes off mecanicaly when starting, then goes back on.
This connector spark at every move when it`s over loaded from stock amp equipement.
Ans as so long for the hight/low switch
So, if you want to be safe from wiring fire and handle bar switch problems;
You should bring 12vlt fused line from battery, then two bosch light relays, one for starter light/cancel switch and one for .hight/low
You can ad a micro switch to cancel power to head light, to maximise power for cranking.
Ps.; check friend running double HID light, it was pulling 10,4 amp. three times stock head light consumption.
Never ad amp to the original wiring, as much in automotive as on motorcycle.
On our Max the starter button as a tiny brass connector that goes off mecanicaly when starting, then goes back on.
This connector spark at every move when it`s over loaded from stock amp equipement.
Ans as so long for the hight/low switch
So, if you want to be safe from wiring fire and handle bar switch problems;
You should bring 12vlt fused line from battery, then two bosch light relays, one for starter light/cancel switch and one for .hight/low
You can ad a micro switch to cancel power to head light, to maximise power for cranking.
Ps.; check friend running double HID light, it was pulling 10,4 amp. three times stock head light consumption.
Last edited:
PDWeyand
Well-Known Member
Well I got my DDM Motorcycle HID Kit, 55W, H4 High / Low, 8000K kit today, I been waiting for it. I took the max apart to cram the extra wiring that is not needed. I took the headlight bucket off and opened the back of it up to allow the bigger HID bulb install. I also change front turns again, bigger same style 3 1/2 inches from 3/4 inch. I pulled all the wiring out of the headlight bucket that was not needed and tucked them up. I must say that the light even in the day time was much brighter. I did not take any photo of any of the install but it is plug and play for the most part. Other that cutting the back of the headlight bucket, under 2 hours to get it all in and button back up. I will edit this with a photo at night.
vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
I have been ending out numerous emails to find a good replacement bulb that matches the non-modification bulb that I have. I found a few, but waiting for final details before I make some purchases. I want to have a spare on hand for the day this bulb goes bad for swapout. I myself, do not care to do this cutout modification everyone else seems to be doing. I will eventually disclose my findings once my research is done.
Mike
Any issues with this kit cutting out? I was riding at night the other night and it would intermittently cut out. The light would flicker? I haven't tore into the housing yet but am thinking it may be a short somewhere. Just curious if it has happened to anyone else.
CrackerRican
Well-Known Member
Yes I've went through 2 of them & they both started flickering & then just stay off. I'm starting to have voltage problem & I'm installing R1 r/r & checking my electrical system very soon.
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
I put in a set of relays from Eastern Beaver, and have all the light I need. The full 12v getting to the stock wattage bulb seems bright enough for me.. If I really want more light, I'd run a 80/100 watt bulb with the relays. I've used these bulbs before I did the relay mod, never had a problem with heat due to the higher wattage, but relaying the system might make things a bit hotter. Just a thought..
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I run one of Seans 90/130 bulbs. You also have to install the ceramic pigtail...easy to install and did it in the parking lot at Eureka springs.
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