Cam Heel Grinding?

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speedcostsmoney

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something from the 50's also called BELLY GRIND, consists of grinding the heel of the camshaft , which gives you more lift of course you have to put a thicker shim in the bucket , polish after grinding but of course , duration will stay the same, just putting this post up to get some feed back, OLD SCHOOL TRICKS
 
That would work but the grinding will cut through the "crust" of the lobe and expose a softer metal inside. This means accelerated wear. It can still be done though.
 
My own cams have been re-ground and re-profiled to some extent and I made new
shims to suit. The cost was around $200 from memory. All is working well.

As far as I'm aware and I'm 99% convinced is that the Vmax cams are Chill cast.
The hardening should be deep, deep enough in fact to take considerable grinding to have any effect on hardness.
The attached picture shows a typical cross section of a chill cast lobe, you can see visually how deep/dense the hardened area is.

The camshaft specialist shop here has been run by the same guy for 27 years, I would have thought that if any red flags arose in the procedure or outcome then he might have mentioned it.

I'm due to have a conversation with them in the next couple of weeks and I'll pose some questions surrounding it all.
 

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Well that's a lot less than new cams & springs for sure. Tks Jedi. Any more info much appreciated.
Steve-o

I'll dig up the info when I get home, The grind was middle of the road from memory as in streetable without having to mill pistons or change springs, just more lift and slight profile shift. The shims I made were either .5 or 1mm thicker ( can't remember until I find the sheet).

It definitely affected the mid range like the info proposes. When the bike hits 3k that's when I feel it.

If anyone's got an old or busted cam and wants to send it I'll do a cross sectional analysis and find out exactly how hard and how deep it is.
 
You wonder if anyone has any old cams to sacrifice lol! That's a good one!
 

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