Starting problem and wet exhaust

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Simior

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Nov 6, 2017
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Kaunas
Hello,

I am new here since I got the bike only a week ago (my dream bike!).

And I got it for a fairly good price (even though had to drive 9 hours to get it).

1996's model, 143HP V-boost included. (28k miles)

Maybe anyone could help me with these issues:

1. Sometimes it starts up with a cranky sound comming out from the engine (https://youtu.be/O4fWkh5Kb60) (https://youtu.be/WDphKEanofg). Last time it didn't start at all though and I don't want to try my luck further without knowing what exactly is the cause. The previous owner said that his mechanic told him that it's not a big deal and not worth fixing but I have a long trip planned for summer and I want to get it to a mint condition till that.

2. Second thing that I've noticed is that some moisture keeps gathering from the right exhaust pipe and it keeps on smoking even after when I turn off the engine.
(https://youtu.be/BIa_09XcG9w)

Tomorrow a mechanic is coming to inspect the bike, so I pray that everything is gonna be alright!

Please, if anyone has any ideas on these two cases, let me know, I will much appreciate that!

Bonus question: what's the best way to prepare it for ''winter's sleep''? Want must be done? (I've had some other bikes, but this one's not an ordinary one!)

Thank YOU!!!
 
Welcome to the forum.
That 1st set of videos sounds like the good old, "rocks in a box" starter clutch issue. There are 3 screws that lock the starter clutch dog to the flywheel. I just completed this task about 3 weeks ago. When I dove into mine, I found that the previous owner, not only did he not use thread locker, but the bolts were never peened to prevent them from backing out. So when I replaced the starter clutch, I cleaned the bolts and holes with acetone, used red locktite, and gave it an hour to cure-up before peening them into the flywheel, then re-assembly.

This is one of many videos that Sean Morely (on this forum), aka, "V-Max Master Guru" aka One2dMax :biglaugh:, posted on that issue. Please note: he has quite a few videos on the Max.. Check them out,, you wont regret it..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kw2uqNnRwCw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePW96hG2Ojw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zf33AGRTZ6s
 
Here's mine warming up around this time of year. The air was a bit cool and moist that morning.
Vmax warmning up.jpg


I have seen this cause water to form, but it only lasts until the pipes are warmed up.
You might want to do a temp check on each cylinder, just to make sure all are firing.


When I prep my max for winter, I fill up my tank till it cannot take any more fuel.
I do this to reduce the amount of free-air volume in the tank that can allow ethanol laced fuel to grab water molecules from the air.
(Note: I coated my tank to eliminate any rust buildup because of ethanol+air=water also).
I remove each spark plug, and put about 20 drops of oil into the cylinders. I use a syringe with some fuel tubing to get it in there.
I then crank the engine (no spark plugs installed) for about 3 - 4 seconds, to allow the oil to coat the inside of the pistons.
Then I re-install the spark plugs.
At this point, I remove the battery, and cover the exhaust with plastic bags, held on with rubber bands to reduce any moisture from entering.
Since I don't have a garage of my own yet, I put her into position and cover her up.

4 years doing it this way and no issues so far.
 
Mine has steamed out of the pipes like that since 1985. Box of rocks noise will need attention.
 
Thank You all for the replies!

For the 1st issue - I guess I'll find out tomorrow and post whatever I get to know.

For the 2nd - I think it's just condensate. Everything just kinda freaks me out a bit since I haven't had much time to get to know well to this beast.

One more question if I may - Are there anything I should take care of, modify, in order to avoid future malfunctions? (I've heard there might be trouble with this O ring at the bottom of the bike, where the oil line goes?)

P.S. Sorry if my terms of some words are not correct, english isn't my 1st langue. :)
 
I've heard there might be trouble with this O ring at the bottom of the bike, where the oil line goes?
Not sure of your meaning.. Post a picture.. it would help..
 
Welcome to the club. One of the pieces of advice I've taken to heart is to let the bike warm up before riding. I make the temp gauge has started moving before I get on it. The starter clutch is a pain to remove but with the support of the other brothers here I was able to do it myself.

Doug
 
I did the O-ring "fix" even though there was nothing wrong with mine.
The parts to do it are cheap insurance/cheap for peace of mind.

I would buy the parts and do it whenever its convenient. Its not something that I think needs done right away. Just make sure you are letting the engine warm up before you start cracking the throttle!
 
Haven't had an issue with my 91 (knock on wood),, But I always let my bike warm up before pushing on it. Just a force of habit i guess. Also,, I only put the recommended amount of oil in there (Checking the sight glass on a level surface, when cold, and warmed up). I don't want to put too much.
 
One more question if I may - Are there anything I should take care of, modify, in order to avoid future malfunctions? (I've heard there might be trouble with this O ring at the bottom of the bike, where the oil line goes?)

First job would be to download a copy of the Service Manual or similar

As the bike is new to you the first thing I would do is a full service (check sheet here) regardless of what the PO say they have done.
Not only does this give you peace of mind but also helps familiarise yourself with the machine.

Additionally I would clean all earth points and examine plug caps and leads. If they are on the wrong side of ancient then replace them.

A can of fuel system cleaner in the tank wouldn't go amiss either.

Now to the O ring.

This is something that crops up from time to time and, IMHO, and the biggest issue it causes is the paranoia in the owners mind. I know this to be true as I once was a sufferer.

BUT...in the fourteen years that I have been lurking around sites such as this it is incredibly rare for an engine to fail due to lubrication failure.

If the displacement actually caused problems then I would have expected a) this to be reported here and on other sites b) the press to jump on it (Honda camshafts anyone?) c) it was over ten years before Yameringha modified the pick-up tube.

Given that the your bike is twenty one years old and the engine is still intact then I think that regardless of where the O ring sits it is most unlikely to suffer lubrication failure.
This assumes you take the good advice offered previously to let the motor warm up before giving it some welly and that the oil quality and quantity are maintained.
 
Start your engine and observe the oil level window. The oil should empty quickly if the o-ring is in place correctly. If the oil lingers in the window,there's a problem. Securing the plumbing with safety wire,per Sean, is the best fix I've seen. A new o-ring, puck and gasket get you back on the road.
 
So after a good inspection I found out the following things:

1. The starter clutch will probably need a replacement (any tips for parts ordering to Europe? Is Ebay a legit source? Because I find the whole package there for around 180$. Is that a normal price?

2. One cylinder seems to not be working. After getting the bike warm and reving up, it seems to start working. My guess is that the carbs should be cleaned, I found some old rust in the gas tank, and the bike wasn't ridden much.

3. Front break pads needs replacement. I'm not sure about the discs though, I'd like to save them for one more season since I have a lot expenses so far.

Question: What about valve clearances? I found out in the service interval sheet (posted above) that it should be checked and modified every 25k Mi, and mine has 28k and I highly doubt that it was done.
 
Sean Morley (Morley's Muscle, see the banner ad on the website) has a better starter clutch kit available. email him [email protected]

The best way to take care of the tank rust is to use a coating inside after you remove and clean it. There are recent threads about how to do it, and a choice of products. Make sure you change your filter, and poke a small wire through the tank vent 90 degree fitting on-top of the tank after you've coated it, or the tank won't properly-flow gas. I suggest adding a sintered-bronze gas filter inline, between the carbs and the fuel pump, plenty of space there to add it. The emgo rebuildable one is inexpensive and does a good job.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=45385&highlight=tank+coating

https://www.denniskirk.com/180650.s...TaBCh35hgwbEAQYCCABEgJhCfD_BwE&ad=45713337637

Your rotors should last for more mileage than you have on it, easily. Check them for excessive wear or warpage, both are probably not issues unless someone wore-out the pads and the brake pad steel backing plate grooved the rotors. OEM rotors are expensive, most people who want replacements, choose the wave rotors from China, available on ebay. Look in the search function on the forum for more info on the supplier that has proven satisfactory for that.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=40080&highlight=wave+rotors
 
After seeing that my starter gear teeth, and collar were fine, I simply ordered the clutch itself.
Starter clutch order.jpg

So far, it's been great.. No "Rocks in a Box" sounds at all.
Even after warming her up, stopping, then restarting.. (that's when mine would really sound shitty). So far, it's been great..

Again,, Make sure you secure those bolts.
Clean the new bolts and flywheel holes with acetone, break cleaner, or denatured alcohol.
Use RED thread locker (Locktite).
After tightening down the bolts and letting the Locktite set-up for at least an hour, peen those bolts into the flywheel.

I used a chisel and a hammer to put a nice indent into the edge of the each bolt and into the flywheel. As per Locktite, it is oil resistant after curing, and I didn't want the bolt to shift at all while peening, so I let it setup for an hour 1st.
 

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