Flywheel removal

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Biker Dash

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2013
Messages
1,584
Reaction score
3
Location
Waterville, Maine (Equestria)
I need to know what size wrench I would need for the flywheel. I know the nut is 19mm, but what of the hex portion of the flywheel? It's definitely bigger than 27mm. And the channel locks I got just do not provide the needed leverage or grip.
10509563_10203990348454398_3278322143491734819_n.jpg
 
Also, what direction is the 19mm nut supposed to be turned, and if I had someone clamping down tight on the front and rear brakes, would the clutch be able to hold the flywheel tight enough to loosen that nut?
 
Looking at it, lefty loosey is off. Get an impact somewhere and make it simple. H. F. has electric ones. You"ll use it again. A lot of part houses have them to loan/rent. You'll be needing a decent puller too. I use a harmonic balancer puller with grade 8 bolts. I don't like the brakes lock idea,but never tried it to be honest. There is a good possibility of breaking something. I f it would even hold.
 
Last edited:
And I would say....get the correct sized nut. Crescent wrenches are VERY good at rounding off nuts.
 
Looking at it, lefty loosey is off. Get an impact somewhere and make it simple. H. F. has electric ones. You"ll use it again. A lot of part houses have them to loan/rent. You'll be needing a decent puller too. I use a harmonic balancer puller with grade 8 bolts. I don't like the brakes lock idea,but never tried it to be honest. There is a god possibility of breaking something. I f it would even hold.
If I could get the proper size wrench, to solidly hold the flywheel, getting that 19mm nut off would be easy

And I would say....get the correct sized nut. Crescent wrenches are VERY good at rounding off nuts.

If I knew what size wrench I needed...
 
I never touch that nut on the flywheel just use am impact to spin the 19 lose. I have a bad ass OTC stinger puller & once I tighten the tree bolts on it I use the 5/8 and an 1 1/16 on the puller hammer it with the impact a bit & then hit it with a big hammer & it pops right off.
 
Last edited:
Kyle, when you say, "hit it w/a big hammer," are you referring to the stator you hit on its side? Once you tension the puller and use the impact hammer on the 5/8" nut, then what do you hit?

Somehow I think you mean, hitting that 5/8" nut w/the 'big hammer.' Yes? And not the side of the stator?

I don't have my service manual w/me, is it a reverse-thread nut?
 
You need to loosen the central bolt by a couple of turns. The larger hex is used when you want to turn the crank to do the timing or rotate the cams.
The 19 mm is a RH (conventional) thread as the crank turns anti-clockwise.

The best way is, as the Cap says, to tighten the centre nut of the puller then hit the end of the centre puller bolt. This should jar the flywheel off the taper.

This is straightforward provided that a) the spider part of the puller is sufficiently robust and b) there is no stretch in the bolts. I.e. the puller is as rigid as possible. If there is any flex then it will act like a spring and the flywheel can be a right tw*t to remove. Thus the tales of flywheels flying across workshops and removing anything in their way.

This arrangement works for me.
 
Biker Dash,
The hex portion of the flywheel is 32mm, you will need a 32mm box type wrench or as others have stated use a impact wrench for the removal only. My personal preference is to also use the 32mm box wrench as a hold-back while re-installing to gain proper torque.


I need to know what size wrench I would need for the flywheel. I know the nut is 19mm, but what of the hex portion of the flywheel? It's definitely bigger than 27mm. And the channel locks I got just do not provide the needed leverage or grip.
10509563_10203990348454398_3278322143491734819_n.jpg
 
Kyle, when you say, "hit it w/a big hammer," are you referring to the stator you hit on its side? Once you tension the puller and use the impact hammer on the 5/8" nut, then what do you hit?

Somehow I think you mean, hitting that 5/8" nut w/the 'big hammer.' Yes? And not the side of the stator?

I don't have my service manual w/me, is it a reverse-thread nut?
I take the 19 out or losen with my impact then attach the puller & tighten it with the impact & then hit the end of the puller with a big hammer. I do not hit the flywheel. The bolt is normal thread
 
OK, thanks, I had always heard that you never want to hit something like a rapidly-rotating flywheel mass because of making it unbalanced, and possibly de-magnetizing it from striking it. I never had that happen, but have never had to pull my flywheel on the 'Max.

I did have a Ford van w/a 351 Windsor which when I pulled the engine for a rebuild (it developed low oil pressure, lotta miles) I found the flex plate (auto tranny flywheel/starter ring gear) had cracks between 4 or 5 of the bolt holes holding it on, glad I caught that before the flywheel/flex plate entirely separated! I had that truck for 17 years, bought it 2 y.o., & hauled my KZ1000 to Montreal for a vacation, twice.

Mr. Midnight, thank-you for the idea, a robust set-up!
 
Yeah... did as recommended, including what Sean instructed in his vid, and that flywheel is still being a cast iron cunt.
Fuck it. I will pay Starting Line to do the job. I KNOW those guys will do it right, and they wont be tempted to stuff C-4 into every nook and cranny on the bike lol
 
It's all about the bolts.

Yep ! I have a stout puller & bolts & I still use new bolts about every third one I do.

nice stout grade 8 bolts... was not doin crap.
Also, Sean, just how does whacking the end of the puller pull off the flywheel? :ummm:

Watched you do it... several times. I just cannot figure that shit out HOW it does it lol
 
It adds just that little bit of extra tension and "shocks" it loose. I do get one every now and then that is a challenge and it really takes a wack and repeat method. Wack it, tighten it, and Wack it again.

Sean
 
It adds just that little bit of extra tension and "shocks" it loose. I do get one every now and then that is a challenge and it really takes a wack and repeat method. Wack it, tighten it, and Wack it again.

Sean

Yeah... this was one of those ones... except it wern't budging!
Like I said, I'll let the shop handle the removal, before I end up breaking shit lol
 

Latest posts

Back
Top