Replacing Stator

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oziols

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St. Paul
Hi:punk:, I need to replace my stator. I have been looking at an older thread posted in the "How to" forum called: Replacing your pick-up coils, and I had a couple questions about it, but I'm worried that nobody will read my posts on it because it is an older thread and my questions are at the very end. Plus I'm a newb :ummm:

I am wondering if to replace the stator I have to remove the gear shift bracket, footrest, and middle gear cover. Also, it is evident that I might have to replace the stator cover bracket, and middle gear cover bracket (if I have to remove it). I have been looking on line but can't figure out what the part numbers for the brackets are or how to order them. Thanks for your help:You_Rock:
 
:punk: Yes, you will have to remove all those things and buy new gaskets. Not sure what brackets you are talking about, but the only new parts you need other than the stator, is the cover gaskets and you should be ok. Good luck, Spurs
 
Not sure what you mean by cover brackets....I know of no such thing, which is probably why you can't find part #'s.....

Drain the oil, or if you can securely lean the bike on it's right side(I put a jackstand under my right highway peg mount), you can skip this. On the same token, on the sidestand you can remove the clutch cover with no oil spilling FYI.

It's pretty straightforward. You'll need a 12mm to remove the footpeg, a 10mm to remove the pinch bolt on the gearshift, and a 5mm allen key to remove the case bolts, as well as a #3 or #4 philips screwdriver (BIG one) to remove the stator bolts. The two bolts that mount the shifter also help hold the middle gear cover on, they're longer than the rest. The bottom screw on the middle gear cover has a small copper washer on it, just make sure it doesn't get lost.

Remove footpeg
Remove shifter
Remove middle gear cover
Remove stator cover.

The stator cover will fight you a bit since you have to yank it out from the magnets inside the flywheel. Then you just remove the three big philips head screws and the thin disc on top that keeps it centered. Remove the two screws that hold the wire guide in place(one is shared with the pickup coil bracket). Get the stator wires out from under it, pull the grommet out of the case and toss the old stator. Put the disc on the new stator, put the wires back in the channel, and reinstall the guide/cover thing. Then assembly is just reverse of removal.

Make sure your screwdriver fits well....they're pretty tight and stripping them I imagine would cause a royal PITA. If it only fits a little bit, don't use it, and get one that does. If you have an impact driver, it might make this easier. All 3 came out for me without stripping, but it took a LOT of torque and gripping the screwdriver with a rag.

Ensure you do a good job cleaning the mating surfaces...chances are the old gaskets will leave lots of crud behind. I use a razor blade scraper and scotch-brite pads to clean them. A little extra time now prevents you from having to take it all apart again when it leaks. For me the OEM gaskets never worked to re-seal the case, so I use blackRTV, but others have reported that making a gasket can cause binding in the starter geartrain. Always fine for me, but do so at your own risk I suppose.

While you're at it, cut the connector off the stator, and directly splice the wires to the r/r. I'd suggest also wiring the r/r directly to the + and - sides of the battery...the factory harness has lots of choke points that cost you voltage.
 
Thank you all for your help (btw, i did look at that "how to' post by Sean Morley). In my original post I typed bracket but meant *gasket*. I am really very new at working on motorcycles and most things mechanical...but I am trying to learn :) thanks again for your help!!! I love my vmax.
 
I feel like an idiot, but I can't find the stator cover gasket or middle gear gasket anywhere online. It is driving me crazy because I know that it is just a result of my own ineptitude.
 
you could just order them from morley.. or they're numbers 2 and 19 respectively on the "crankcase cover 1" section on microfiches.
 
A crow-foot style puller. Most auto parts stores will loan you a suitable one, generally called a "harmonic balancer puller".
 
Be forewarned that many members find that style not adequate for the force required. Sean Morley has a 'travelling' tool he loans-out, it goes from member to member, and is a good reason to buy some other stuff your Mod Monkey is screeching into your ear about buying. The tool he has is robust, and will do the job. If you buy a harmonic balancer puller tool, before you try it, see what size bolts you need and go to Fastenal or another supplier of high-quality hardware and but the same size bolts, but in a higher grade/spec. The better metal will provide you with more pulling ability. Also, some people use a heavy blanket around the parts being removed, as a 'catcher's mitt,' because the stator has a nasty habit of parting company with the crankshaft end with much force. The heavy blanket will help to lessen its flight path. Read the stories on here about the stator flying across the room when it separates. Be careful!
 
When using as puller, the center bolt needs to do the work. If you just keep cranking, that's where you'll generate the force to send things across the garage. Hit the Center bolt after you tighten it a bit, crank on it, hit it,keep doing it until she comes off. Be nice if you borrow someone else's tool, and hit it with a soft faced heavy hammer. A regular hammer will peen the hell out of the center puller bolt
I have a lead hammer I use, but buying one today would be difficult. A large brass hammer might be available somewhere. You'll use it again once you buy it.
 
Just a comment Tweeter45 in case you missed it, you don't have to pull the flywheel to replace the stator.

If you need to pull the flywheel for starter clutch or some other reason, by all means have fun.
 
This is what you need to get the flywheel off with the minimum of fuss.

I had to machine a chamfer on the flywheel end of the post.

Not only do the modified posts stop the bolts stretching but they also keep the spider located centrally thus the centre bolt stays in-line with the centre line of the flywheel.

As Mr Sdt354 says you tighten the centre bolt give it a sharp hit with a hammer.

The flywheel will come off without a whimper. :clapping:
 
Thank you all for your help (btw, i did look at that "how to' post by Sean Morley). In my original post I typed bracket but meant *gasket*. I am really very new at working on motorcycles and most things mechanical...but I am trying to learn :) thanks again for your help!!! I love my vmax.

Where did you find the Sean Morley stator removal video? I need to replace mine.
Thank you!
 
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