labargeblake
Member
Anyone have any suggestions or preference on oil type and weight they use for their first gen vmax? My bike is a 96 with super trap pipes. Thank you
Preferred oil type
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caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
I've been using Rotella 15-40 dino diesel oil, works great in both bikes. I know it's a popular choice but you will get some different schools of thought as on any oil thread. Good luck and enjoy.
jdeitz1979
Well-Known Member
I been running the same. I like it. +1 to all the above.
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Killjoy
Well-Known Member
Castro 10-40 conventional here. =/
Zeus36
Well-Known Member
Ditto on the Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic. I run it in both my Harley air-cooled Evo motor and the Vmax.
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Given that we (almost) never hear of engine problems due to lubrication failure then I suspect that within reason it doesn't matter.
Use a good quality oil either mineral or semi-synthetic and change it at the recommended intervals.
Use a good quality oil either mineral or semi-synthetic and change it at the recommended intervals.
15w40 rotella from wallymart in my gen 1's
93max
Well-Known Member
Cool! I have about 5 gallons of Rotella in my basement!
I think a thread of "what oils mess with clutches " would be good!
I think a thread of "what oils mess with clutches " would be good!
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I've used Shell Rotella 15W-40 on all my bikes. But ever since we had a Rural King store open up in town I've been using their store brand with about the same results as the Rotella oil....
https://www.ruralking.com/oil-rural-king-15w40-5-gallon.html
https://www.ruralking.com/oil-rural-king-15w40-5-gallon.html
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
Tractor Supply sells a house brand diesel oil, branded Traveller. I've used it with no problems. In fact, there's a 5 gallon can sitting in my garage right now.
carrizog60
Well-Known Member
Why not 100%synth? I used it last oil change, motul 7100 10w40
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Because unless you have found a source at knock down a price the additional cost doesn't deliver any significant benefit.
There have also been reports over the years that the clutch can slip after filling with synthetic.
The reason for this I know not.
There have also been reports over the years that the clutch can slip after filling with synthetic.
The reason for this I know not.
I think the experienced readers here know that in the oil posts it cautions against car oil. If you're a new reader, no car oil! The friction modifiers in modern car oil will cause premature failure of the wet clutch.
Shell Rotella diesel oil is an acceptable substitute for motorcycle-specific oil. It has the type of additives that our wet clutches need to live.
From Mobil's website: https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our...ts/difference-between-car-and-motorcycle-oils
Since most of us change our oil frequently, unless you're racing, I don't think the pure synthetic is worth the extra cost.
Shell Rotella diesel oil is an acceptable substitute for motorcycle-specific oil. It has the type of additives that our wet clutches need to live.
From Mobil's website: https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our...ts/difference-between-car-and-motorcycle-oils
Since most of us change our oil frequently, unless you're racing, I don't think the pure synthetic is worth the extra cost.
caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
You guys realize this is possibly the most peaceful oil thread ever posted on any forum, ever?
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
"Motorcycle oil" does not exist. It's a meaningless marketing term. All it generally refers to is that oil has been JASO MA certified, which tons of non-MC specific oils are as well. Like Rotella. And dozens of others.
"Car oil" is perfectly fine, provided the API seal on the bottle does not say "energy conserving". This generally only appears on specially marked oils for extra fuel economy or high mileage engines.
The Vmax has a very marginal clutch spring stock. It's barely strong enough to hold the engine's power. Add in full syns that are "too" slippery and you frequently end up with clutch slippage.
Full syns have also been known to screw with the starter's one way clutch as well, which also relies on friction to work.
"Car oil" is perfectly fine, provided the API seal on the bottle does not say "energy conserving". This generally only appears on specially marked oils for extra fuel economy or high mileage engines.
The Vmax has a very marginal clutch spring stock. It's barely strong enough to hold the engine's power. Add in full syns that are "too" slippery and you frequently end up with clutch slippage.
Full syns have also been known to screw with the starter's one way clutch as well, which also relies on friction to work.
Here is more info on additives: http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_additives.htm
From what I have read, the use of ZDDP additive is something commonly-found in motorcycle oils. but not as-much in car oil formulations because of catalytic converters.
Here's everybody's favorite tech explainer, Kevin Cameron, who expalins some of the common questions about motorcycle oils. http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/07/04/ask-kevin-should-i-use-motorcycle-synthetic-oil-or-petroleum/
In the end, if you use something other than what the manufacturer specifies, you are assuming, in-effect, that your understanding of the engine's oil needs are greater than the engineers who created the motorcycle engine. I think I'll leave the engineering to the men and women who worked on it, and follow their factory specs.
I believe that there are specs that can be exceeded, as-in SA is a good oil base category for cars in the 1930's, and then there came more-advanced designs of engines, closer tolerances, all of-which caused the oil classification to be upgraded. Over time, as this onward progression of closer tolerances, different metallurgy, and engine component design changes took place, the oil formulations changed to provide the protection for the running gear designed by the auto (or motorcycle) manufacturer.
Moving ahead to the 1970's the American Petroleum Institute (API) classification for cars and light trucks came to be the SE classification. All those Detroit 1960's/early 1970's 'muscle cars' were designed for a lesser oil than SE! The current classification is now SN, and anything before SJ is now considered 'obsolete.' So, just start at the top of the alphabet and march-onwards from SA to SN. That's where we are now.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
And here is info from Yamaha:
https://www.yamahagenuineparts.com/Yamalube/YamalubeFactSheet.asp
When General Motors was using more interchangeability among its manufacturing arms, when it was B-O-P (Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac) and C-G-C (Chevrolet, GMC, Cadillac), while the individual companies often had their own engine designs, and transmission designs, many of the components of the bodies were the same. That is to say, if you bought a Chevy Biscayne, Bel-Air, Impala, or Caprice, if you had a car with electric windows, your electric motor was the same regardless of the trim level you selected. In the Biscayne package, used for fleet sales, electric windows were not a big seller because taxis and cop cars didn't get ordered with electric windows. At the other end, the Imaplas and later the Caprice became top of the line, and they had interior packages where electric windows were standard. The full-size body shells were standardized across GM, so a Chevy Biscayne if it was ordered with electric windows would have the same window electric motor as a Cadillac Sedan de Ville.
If your Cadillac window motor failed, you would go to the Cadillac dealer and he would order the motor and install it. Because it came with a Cadillac part bin #, it would cost you more than a Chevy Biscayne electric motor which came from the same parts bin, but cross-referenced to be for the full-sized Chevy. And it would have a Chevy price tag. It's marketing.
The Italians are also very good at this, as the Italian component manufacturers sell to whoever needs their components. Going back a ways, when Lancia was in business, you could buy a part from a Lancia dealer or parts supplier, and install it on your Ferrari, because it was the exact same part, just under a Ferrari parts bin # reference. Of course the Ferrari dealer would rather sell you an electrical component for a 10X mark-up over the cost of the same piece bought from the Lancia or FIAT dealer. It's all marketing.
So if a motor oil meets the specification of the manufacturer according to the American Petroleum Institute 'donut' of information about oil classification, you can use it secure in the knowlege that you are not hurting your engine, as the specs are met for the oil it needs.
From what I have read, the use of ZDDP additive is something commonly-found in motorcycle oils. but not as-much in car oil formulations because of catalytic converters.
Here's everybody's favorite tech explainer, Kevin Cameron, who expalins some of the common questions about motorcycle oils. http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/07/04/ask-kevin-should-i-use-motorcycle-synthetic-oil-or-petroleum/
In the end, if you use something other than what the manufacturer specifies, you are assuming, in-effect, that your understanding of the engine's oil needs are greater than the engineers who created the motorcycle engine. I think I'll leave the engineering to the men and women who worked on it, and follow their factory specs.
I believe that there are specs that can be exceeded, as-in SA is a good oil base category for cars in the 1930's, and then there came more-advanced designs of engines, closer tolerances, all of-which caused the oil classification to be upgraded. Over time, as this onward progression of closer tolerances, different metallurgy, and engine component design changes took place, the oil formulations changed to provide the protection for the running gear designed by the auto (or motorcycle) manufacturer.
Moving ahead to the 1970's the American Petroleum Institute (API) classification for cars and light trucks came to be the SE classification. All those Detroit 1960's/early 1970's 'muscle cars' were designed for a lesser oil than SE! The current classification is now SN, and anything before SJ is now considered 'obsolete.' So, just start at the top of the alphabet and march-onwards from SA to SN. That's where we are now.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
And here is info from Yamaha:
https://www.yamahagenuineparts.com/Yamalube/YamalubeFactSheet.asp
When General Motors was using more interchangeability among its manufacturing arms, when it was B-O-P (Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac) and C-G-C (Chevrolet, GMC, Cadillac), while the individual companies often had their own engine designs, and transmission designs, many of the components of the bodies were the same. That is to say, if you bought a Chevy Biscayne, Bel-Air, Impala, or Caprice, if you had a car with electric windows, your electric motor was the same regardless of the trim level you selected. In the Biscayne package, used for fleet sales, electric windows were not a big seller because taxis and cop cars didn't get ordered with electric windows. At the other end, the Imaplas and later the Caprice became top of the line, and they had interior packages where electric windows were standard. The full-size body shells were standardized across GM, so a Chevy Biscayne if it was ordered with electric windows would have the same window electric motor as a Cadillac Sedan de Ville.
If your Cadillac window motor failed, you would go to the Cadillac dealer and he would order the motor and install it. Because it came with a Cadillac part bin #, it would cost you more than a Chevy Biscayne electric motor which came from the same parts bin, but cross-referenced to be for the full-sized Chevy. And it would have a Chevy price tag. It's marketing.
The Italians are also very good at this, as the Italian component manufacturers sell to whoever needs their components. Going back a ways, when Lancia was in business, you could buy a part from a Lancia dealer or parts supplier, and install it on your Ferrari, because it was the exact same part, just under a Ferrari parts bin # reference. Of course the Ferrari dealer would rather sell you an electrical component for a 10X mark-up over the cost of the same piece bought from the Lancia or FIAT dealer. It's all marketing.
So if a motor oil meets the specification of the manufacturer according to the American Petroleum Institute 'donut' of information about oil classification, you can use it secure in the knowlege that you are not hurting your engine, as the specs are met for the oil it needs.
I have been using Mobil 1 Racing since the previous owner said that what he used.. Since I have not had any problems with any gear, I kept using the same stuff. 4 years now and still going strong,, knock on wood :biglaugh:
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