Anyone have any method of removing bolts that have locktight

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EAGLEPI

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I am about to replace the water pump cover that got scratched last spring, rather than stripping a bolt, I thought I would ask before I try if anyone has a method or trick to do before trying to removing the bolts that have been installed with Locktight?

Thanks in advance
 
Is it permanent or semi-permanent locktite?

If semi a good fitting bit into an impact wrench should do the job and if permanent then, as Mr 93max suggests, heat.

I'd also be interested to know why threadlock was applied in the first place.
 
Is it permanent or semi-permanent locktite?

If semi a good fitting bit into an impact wrench should do the job and if permanent then, as Mr 93max suggests, heat.

I'd also be interested to know why threadlock was applied in the first place.

I'm assuming there is loctite from the factory because the service manual calls for loctite when installing the cover after any water pump work. Been watching YouTube videos about it and the best and easiest way I have seen is to get an old hex wrench and heat the tip until it is glowing red and insert it into the bolt and let the heat transfer. This Youtuber did it about 3 or 4 times before he tried to break the bolt free on the project he was working on so that is what I will be trying.

I'd rather assume than not assume when the manual calls for it, not a big fan of snapping bolts.
 
I have seen is to get an old hex wrench and heat the tip until it is glowing red and insert it into the bolt and let the heat transfer.

If the old hex wrench is going to be used, JUST for heat transfer, that's fine. I would not try to loosen the bolt with a wrench whose temper is now compromised from getting it red hot..

On 1st attempt when trying to replace my rotors on my 91, I used my heavy duty soldering gun, to do the same thing you mentioned with the red hot wrench.

It took way too long, just to get 1 loose for my liking..

So, by applying 15 seconds of heat from regular torch to the outside of the bolt hole, around the wheel, the bolts came out with normal pressure.

Here another little tidbit..
Don't know how many people know this, but in my experience, (building and maintaining multiple sized R/C Helicopters), I've found that Blue LockTite tends to loosens its grip, with the use of 90% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. It tends to flow into places that regular water cannot and makes the LockTite free up.

Good luck.
 
Ahhh! I knew alcohol was good for other things!
I was the first owner to rebuilt my '06 water pump and never observed any white factory loctite on the threads. Nor did I use any blue loctite during reassembly. Never had a problem of any bolts backing out on me.
I had a slight weep along the lower edge of the pump housing, and removed the pump assembly to apply a slight amount of grey Yamabond along with a new gasket. That resolved my problem.
I too had issue removing the rotor retaining bolts on my rear rotor. I simply heated the heads of the bolts up with a had torch. The heat transferred through the bolts and "softened" the factory loctite enough to snap them loose with an air impact.
 
On another forum, comments have been made about the use of hand impacts versus air impact tools. Discussion was made about using the correct tip in the tool whether air or hand-impact, that would mean, using the JIS tip, probably a #2, I assume, if it's a phillips head, or a 5 mm if an allen head. Preloading the hand-impact in the direction you want it to turn, and using a good ball-pein hammer with some weight to it were also commonly-approved techniques. The use of a bit of heat will break the bond of the locktite, and is supposedly a standard operating procedure with the high-strength red locktite. The blue locktite should break-loose just with hand tools alone, but if you want to heat it, a few seconds with MAPP gas is probably better than a standard propane torch.

If I have a screw I'm suspect it could shed the slot or phillips X before loosening, I use a combination of heat (whether or not it's got any locktite), I place a tight-fitting tip into the top of the screw, and give a few sharp raps with the ball pein, and then some PB Blaster. At this point, I'm not putting any turning torque onto the fastener, it's just to 'shock' the fastener. Let that soak for a few minutes and then a hand-held impact hammer.

Rarely will I have to break-out a cold chisel, but the Yamaha brake disc buttons have been a place that I've had to use the cold chisel before, when the prior methods didn't convince Mr. Button Head to leggo your grip on my UI%$%$! brake disc!

A dremel tool to cut a new slot across the fastener head is another technique in the arsenal of tactics and strategy to defeat stubborn fasteners. Just be-sure that the tip you're going to use to try to remove the fastener is as-tight-a fit as-possible once you make the cut, especially if you are going to use the hand-impact driver. If you don't, all you're going to do is beat-up the head of the fastener, and probably break-off chunks of the head, leaving you with an easy-out removal job. I try to avoid those episodes.
 
If you're talking about the cover bolts I would not worry about the locktite. The bolts will come out just fine. Heat will discolor the cover and far from needed.
 
If you're talking about the cover bolts I would not worry about the locktite. The bolts will come out just fine. Heat will discolor the cover and far from needed.

Thanks for all the replies. Sean, I would imagine that you have done this the most on a regular basis so I will give it a try without heat. When I saw the Loctite symbol in the manual I just assumed that it could be a problem and I didn't want anything to happen.

Thanks

Ron
 
If you're talking about the cover bolts I would not worry about the locktite. The bolts will come out just fine. Heat will discolor the cover and far from needed.

Sean,
I used a T hex key and they came out with the normal little snap first. I do see signs of red thread tightener in the holes how best to clean that and should I use medium blue loctite to reinstall bolts?

water_%20pump.jpg
 
My guess is that is sealant, not thread locker, and certainly not red thread locker!
 
My guess is that is sealant, not thread locker, and certainly not red thread locker!

I didn't know what it was so I used a thin wire brush to screw in and out and few times and it cleaned it all out leaving only a slight red tint. I reinstalled the cover and gasket with a very little of Loctite blue medium on the very first few threads because the manual calls for it. I refilled and filtered the coolant that I recovered when the cover came off. Ran the engine for a while and so far no leaks anywhere:eusa_dance:

Sean helped me a lot on this project via PM and I appreciate your help !!!

I appreciate everyone's input to my thread.
 
I'm assuming there is loctite from the factory because the service manual calls for loctite when installing the cover after any water pump work.

Could you give the page reference where it says this?
I've had a look and can't see any reference to thread-locking water pump bolts in either the Service Manual or Haynes.
 
If you're talking about the cover bolts I would not worry about the locktite. The bolts will come out just fine. Heat will discolor the cover and far from needed.

^^ +1 , in addition, heat may also warp the cover, rendering it worthless.

Another little known fact about thread lockers is that they inhibit (galvanic) corrosion of dissimilar metals, e.g. steel bolts threaded into aluminum cases which, counterintuitively, makes them easier to remove (with the proper tools) at a later date.
 

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