High speed wobble

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I'm far from being a techie in this stuff, but have you tried a dampner? I have one on mine 2001 and while I don't run to 125, I have zero wobble or weave......
 
I may have figured it out.

I took the bike out today and realized I tugged the handlebars a little while shifting. I've always used the clutch when shifting, and that has been a debate with a co-worker for some time. I believe a combination of bad roads and tugging slightly on the bars caused my wobble. I accelerated hard today without using the clutch during shifts and it stayed straight.
 
I may have figured it out.

I took the bike out today and realized I tugged the handlebars a little while shifting. I've always used the clutch when shifting, and that has been a debate with a co-worker for some time. I believe a combination of bad roads and tugging slightly on the bars caused my wobble. I accelerated hard today without using the clutch during shifts and it stayed straight.

Dont forget....you ALWAYS have to clutch 1-2 shift. If not it can make 2 gear go out. The other gears.....not so important.
 
Yep....unfortunately fixing 2nd gear is VERY expensive, and strictly from a cost point of view, it is usually cheaper just to buy another engine and gears.
 
You should be able to "jerk" the bars as hard as you want without inducing a front end wobble.
 
I didnt get a chance to watch it.....the video would freeze, but is your Vmax at the stock height? Because the vmax is a cruiser, the front end rake is like a cruiser....not a sports bike. one thing that you can do to help is to lower the front forks in the triple trees about an inch, and see how that helps.

Even with progressive springs that were internally lowered an inch, I still how to lower the front forks about half an inch to smooth out a transition from a turn to bringing the bike straight up.
 
But one thing to consider.....if you dont have aftermarket springs in the forks.....dont drop the forks more than about an inch. If you drop them too far, you can grab the front brakes hard.....and the fender will kiss the bottom of the radiator.
 
And without trying to sound like a complete dig at your riding style. You really should make an effort to learn to use the clutch without jerking the handlebars so hard that you think you are inducing wobble, ease up a bit. Be at one with the bike, Grasshopper. And I agree with sdt354, you should not be able to induce a wobble by shifting or whacking the bars. If you are blaming your riding style then you won't fix the problem and it's going to bite you in the ass when you don't expect it.

Matt
 
Are you gripping the bike firmly with your legs and arms and shoulders when this happens? My Vmax is a bit less stable at high speeds when gripped lightly.
 
Are you gripping the bike firmly with your legs and arms and shoulders when this happens? My Vmax is a bit less stable at high speeds when gripped lightly.
Yes. Nowadays I white-knucke the grips and become one with the bike when tapping into the power.

Wobble still present. Seems to be induced by bad road surface. When I go over a bump on hard acceleration, I still get an unnerving slow vertical wobble. Steering head is adjusted to just looser than low speed weave (too tight = low speed weave).

Another thing... when I let go of the grips, it leans to the left. I'm afraid maybe something is tweaked.

It feels like a horse that needs to be tamed. Not much faith in this beast. :ummm:
 
Have you tried dropping the front forks an inch in the trees? It will put more weight on the front and make the bike more stable.
 
Have you tried dropping the front forks an inch in the trees? It will put more weight on the front and make the bike more stable.

Not yet. But interesting.
A drag racer over on the Yamaha FJ forum mentioned that he "straps" his front down when racing and it improves his handling and ETs.
 
Watch "Dunlop Wobble & Weave.wmv" on YouTube
Dunlop Wobble & Weave.wmv: http://youtu.be/z3OQTU-kE2s
Interesting film on wobble and weave. I think the riders are nuts to continue riding like it for the video but it shows how to get away from the worst weave and wobble by simply lying on the tank.
 
Watch "Dunlop Wobble & Weave.wmv" on YouTube
Dunlop Wobble & Weave.wmv: http://youtu.be/z3OQTU-kE2s
Interesting film on wobble and weave. I think the riders are nuts to continue riding like it for the video but it shows how to get away from the worst weave and wobble by simply lying on the tank.
Nice link and informative for what to do in case of a wobble. I notice early in the video the one tester was either adding or letting air out of the rear tire to effect the wobble I'm guessing.
Since quite a few of us are getting ready to ride for the first time this season be sure to check tire air pressures along with your other spring maintenance regimen.

Brian, Safety Sam here, your tires should be checked often during the riding season as well and remember you cannot determine if your tires have the correct tire pressure in them just by looking at them. Use your trusty tire pressure gauge that you should carry with you at all times.

Golly gee Safety Sam, thanks for the safety tip! :biglaugh:
 
Put the bike to stock specs start with stearing head bearing and inspection of front tire. If you did the adjustmentcheck it again. The front tire should be a high speed rated tire if you are going over 100mph. I like shinko for a front tire it works well with the bike at high speeds. It also works well with metzler rear tire if you like to do rolling burnouts. If not put a shinko on the rear and you will have the best traction. If thT dont fix it you might need to look at your swing arm adjustment but that should cause more of a high speed weave like shake. Unless your springs are super week you should not need to worry about that. Make sure you high speed balance your tires. The bike should work great in stock spec all the way to 140mph if all is adjusted right and you have a good high speed balanced set of tires.
 
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