May have found a cheap coil/wire replacement option

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I have been running mine w/o a resistor for almost 6k miles. I have experianced no problems thus far.
Although I will be adding my custom made harness' which has the resistors as soon as the snow flies, thanks to Gannon!

I've run the COP mod on my 88 model WITHOUT resistors for over 35,000 kilometres with not even a misfire. :clapping:

P.S. My 88 is just about to click over 100,000 kms. Just had the valve shims tested and only had to replace one which was .002 thousands out.
 
i believe all COPs regardless of manf have the same connectors.

Correct. Go to the junkyard and chop some off a harness and save on buying the full ebay harness. Any update from people running these without resistors?
 
Hello all,

Been awhile.

On to it. I've got gen1 busa coils on my 89 vmax. They seem to be running too hot for the motor & are causing it to shut down at operating temp. Everything is within tolerance, wired correctly & correct plugs.

Any ideas..?

Thanx!!!
 
Hello all,

Been awhile.

On to it. I've got gen1 busa coils on my 89 vmax. They seem to be running too hot for the motor & are causing it to shut down at operating temp. Everything is within tolerance, wired correctly & correct plugs.

Any ideas..?

Thanx!!!
Did you make these yourself or buy them?
 
Did you make these yourself or buy them?

I bought the coils from fleabay. Less than 1000 miles on them. Pulled from a bike that was race converted. Built the harnesses using connectors also from fleabay. No resistors. Followed diagrams I found here on the forum. Ran great at 1st. Few tank fulls of fuel run through later & the max is shutting down at operating temp. The motor is running at the proper temp. Not overheating no matter if its 20 degrees or 90 degrees weather.

Stock ignition setup other than the coils & harnesses. Plugs look good.

Thinking this may be a carb issue. Not sure yet.

Previous owner had carbs "rebuilt" before the max was parked & eventually traded for by me. However, the retards at the dealership rebuilt the carbs with the intake boots in seriously bad shape. I replaced them all before the coils were installed & had to slightly adjust the carbs at 1st.

This issue started about when I took the max out & really twisted it.

Been back through EVERYTHING several times. No issues to be found.

Previous owner garaged the max. I park it outside & ride in the rain.

Runs great cold & with little gas in the tank. Hot or full tank barely runs.

Not new to bikes. Wrenched on most in my previous career. Just new to the v4.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 
Are you sure you aren't running out of gas, rather than the coils shutting off? If you have tank venting issues, the full tank of gas leaves little room for vacuum, and may lock long before a low fuel tank of gas would - air volume would leave room for more vacuum before locking.
 
Are you sure you aren't running out of gas, rather than the coils shutting off? If you have tank venting issues, the full tank of gas leaves little room for vacuum, and may lock long before a low fuel tank of gas would - air volume would leave room for more vacuum before locking.

The max is not running out of gas. It does this while just idling with the cap off also. I'm not entirely sure what is going on with the max at this point. That is the reason I reached out to you guys. :bang head:
 
To help eliminate a possible fuel delivery problem, after the bike warms up and eventually dies, open the drain valves of each carb and see if the bowls drain of gas.
But your problem may not be coil or fuel related. It may be a charging issue. The ignition box on these bikes need a very healthy input voltage (12.5+) , or they will fail to deliver to the coils. Numerous folks on this forum have had this problem.
I would suggest monitoring the voltage across the battery terminals after starting the bike cold, and up to the point that it stalls.
There are numerous fixes for a wonky charging system outlined in great detail on this forum. Of course the first item to check is the battery. If you do find that the problem is reduced voltage when the bike warms up, have the battery load-tested.
Cheers!
p.s. - I see that you list your bike as "steampunk" My sister (photo) is a steampunk affectionado, and would love to see a pic of your bike.
Could you make her happy?????
 

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To help eliminate a possible fuel delivery problem, after the bike warms up and eventually dies, open the drain valves of each carb and see if the bowls drain of gas.
But your problem may not be coil or fuel related. It may be a charging issue. The ignition box on these bikes need a very healthy input voltage (12.5+) , or they will fail to deliver to the coils. Numerous folks on this forum have had this problem.
I would suggest monitoring the voltage across the battery terminals after starting the bike cold, and up to the point that it stalls.
There are numerous fixes for a wonky charging system outlined in great detail on this forum. Of course the first item to check is the battery. If you do find that the problem is reduced voltage when the bike warms up, have the battery load-tested.
Cheers!
p.s. - I see that you list your bike as "steampunk" My sister (photo) is a steampunk affectionado, and would love to see a pic of your bike.
Could you make her happy?????
No wonder you were left with nothing Miles---she took ALL the looks-:rofl_200:
 
To help eliminate a possible fuel delivery problem, after the bike warms up and eventually dies, open the drain valves of each carb and see if the bowls drain of gas.
But your problem may not be coil or fuel related. It may be a charging issue. The ignition box on these bikes need a very healthy input voltage (12.5+) , or they will fail to deliver to the coils. Numerous folks on this forum have had this problem.
I would suggest monitoring the voltage across the battery terminals after starting the bike cold, and up to the point that it stalls.
There are numerous fixes for a wonky charging system outlined in great detail on this forum. Of course the first item to check is the battery. If you do find that the problem is reduced voltage when the bike warms up, have the battery load-tested.
Cheers!
p.s. - I see that you list your bike as "steampunk" My sister (photo) is a steampunk affectionado, and would love to see a pic of your bike.
Could you make her happy?????

It is a work in progress. What I hope & plan to accomplish. So, I will update with pics after the kustom has begun. Right now, I just want her back on the road.

I'll check the max over again this weekend & let y'all know how goes it.

Many thanks from the city of rust.
 
To help eliminate a possible fuel delivery problem, after the bike warms up and eventually dies, open the drain valves of each carb and see if the bowls drain of gas.
But your problem may not be coil or fuel related. It may be a charging issue. The ignition box on these bikes need a very healthy input voltage (12.5+) , or they will fail to deliver to the coils. Numerous folks on this forum have had this problem.
I would suggest monitoring the voltage across the battery terminals after starting the bike cold, and up to the point that it stalls.
There are numerous fixes for a wonky charging system outlined in great detail on this forum. Of course the first item to check is the battery. If you do find that the problem is reduced voltage when the bike warms up, have the battery load-tested.
Cheers!
p.s. - I see that you list your bike as "steampunk" My sister (photo) is a steampunk affectionado, and would love to see a pic of your bike.
Could you make her happy?????

BTW, I've seen her pic before. Not sure where. I will update soon though.:punk:
 
On the Hayabusa(GSXR1K, GSXR750, GSXR600 all use the SAME coil sticks),
Please specify any year of any mentioned models, so I can find them on bikebandit and get crossreference for all models and years. thanks.
 

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