Electrical gremlins in the 1260!

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There is one thing in common to the neutral light, tach and temp gauge....the positive feed wire, which is part of the "signal" fuse circuit. A sporadic interuption to this could cause grief.
However,you've got fuel issues as well. The one thing common to the fuel circuit and all of the above is the brown feed wire from the ignition switch to the fuse box. NOTHING on the bike will function if this source wire goes bonkers!
First thing to check - that infamous three-wire (red, brown, blue) ignition switch connector :damn angry:, below the headstock. Lots of forum members have found the connector to be corroded, or burnt thru (me!) While you have it apart, check the continuity of the ignition switch.
That digital voltage gauge could also be a good diagnostic tool, but not wired direct to the battery. If you could bare the brown wire of a little insulation, preferably downstream of the three wire connector, and wire the gauge in here, any sporadic interruption of fuse box power would be evident. Of course the volt meter would only be powered up with the ignition "on". Which is probably a good thing - no draw on the battery with the bike off, regardless of how little amperage it uses.
Cheers!
 
See if you have a good, strong grounding connection where several ground wires attach to the frame just to the right of the battery (outside side of frame). You might also check the main connector just below the main fuse. If it's tweeky, getting hot, or loose, it might throw weird symptoms and make the bike run sporatic, and I'm not sure you've checked it already.
 
Tach wire is tied to fuel pump relay plug go's to ignition 1 yellow wire spark plug wire ..... could something be going with the ignition box - are you running cops maybe a resister went out...

Just me thinking out loud...
 
Miles Long said:
There is one thing in common to the neutral light, tach and temp gauge....the positive feed wire, which is part of the "signal" fuse circuit. A sporadic interuption to this could cause grief.
However,you've got fuel issues as well. The one thing common to the fuel circuit and all of the above is the brown feed wire from the ignition switch to the fuse box. NOTHING on the bike will function if this source wire goes bonkers!
First thing to check - that infamous three-wire (red, brown, blue) ignition switch connector :damn angry:, below the headstock. Lots of forum members have found the connector to be corroded, or burnt thru (me!) While you have it apart, check the continuity of the ignition switch.
That digital voltage gauge could also be a good diagnostic tool, but not wired direct to the battery. If you could bare the brown wire of a little insulation, preferably downstream of the three wire connector, and wire the gauge in here, any sporadic interruption of fuse box power would be evident. Of course the volt meter would only be powered up with the ignition "on". Which is probably a good thing - no draw on the battery with the bike off, regardless of how little amperage it uses.
Cheers!
Click to expand...

Good idea Miles, I got burned by the 3-wire connector on my XJ, I'll have a look-see at it tomorrow.

jfeagins said:
See if you have a good, strong grounding connection where several ground wires attach to the frame just to the right of the battery (outside side of frame). You might also check the main connector just below the main fuse. If it's tweeky, getting hot, or loose, it might throw weird symptoms and make the bike run sporatic, and I'm not sure you've checked it already.
Click to expand...

I haven't checked the grounds yet Jim but will tomorrow. I didn't notice but would suspect that all power was shut down when the bike was having problems....maybe a bit of jostling at various connections, with the key on, will make the lights blink on give some other indication?

jagco1 said:
Tach wire is tied to fuel pump relay plug go's to ignition 1 yellow wire spark plug wire ..... could something be going with the ignition box - are you running cops maybe a resister went out...

Just me thinking out loud...
Click to expand...

No COP's jagco but I am running a DYNA box, wonder if something is going haywire with that?

I'm really hoping this thing will reveal itself when the bike is on the lift, it seems to be getting worse quickly and there's probly not much road test time left.
 
I reckon you have a bad earth there Dan.
Check where the earth wire is connected to the bolt that holds the faux tank latch. It might be a good connection from the terminal to the frame, but is it a good connection from the terminal to the wire? Might need a clean and some solder. Or maybe run an additional earth wire up to that area directly from the regulator, as a test.
Something like that.
Earth is good. We need earth. :biglaugh:
 
You keep talking about turning it off and restarting it,Ign switch?Run off on switch?Everyone has great idea's,You will get it .Broke wire somewhere,Or bad connection,Can you wiggle some of the main harness and see if the gauges fluctuate?I hate wiring.Wish you all the luck in the world. Probly one of those things that's gonna make you say(Do you believe that lil shit caused me this much grief)Usually the way it goes,Best of luck my friend.
 
bazwell said:
I reckon you have a bad earth there Dan.
Check where the earth wire is connected to the bolt that holds the faux tank latch. It might be a good connection from the terminal to the frame, but is it a good connection from the terminal to the wire? Might need a clean and some solder. Or maybe run an additional earth wire up to that area directly from the regulator, as a test.
Something like that.
Earth is good. We need earth. :biglaugh:
Click to expand...

Another good idea! Thanks Baz....and everyone else that has chimed in here! :worthy:

The plan for tomorrow is to check connections and connectors, trowel on a shitload of di-electric and see if I can stumble across it. Now that I think about it there already is an additional ground off the R/R....good chance it needs attention tho. :punk:

The Irish god of good luck has smiled on me for a long time regarding electrical issues but I guess he's finally taken a well deserved break....can't blame him :biglaugh:
 
poppop said:
You keep talking about turning it off and restarting it,Ign switch?Run off on switch?Everyone has great idea's,You will get it .Broke wire somewhere,Or bad connection,Can you wiggle some of the main harness and see if the gauges fluctuate?I hate wiring.Wish you all the luck in the world. Probly one of those things that's gonna make you say(Do you believe that lil shit caused me this much grief)Usually the way it goes,Best of luck my friend.
Click to expand...

Always used the ignition switch Terry, sometimes the gauges would bounce back up and sometimes not.

I'm hoping a little wire wiggling will point me in the right direction....probly end up being as plain as the balls on a tall dog....wires hanging off or something dumb like that! :bang head:
 
Danny,

Check for a brake light. Signals, brake light, guages and fuel pump are all powered through the same fuse (labeled signal). If your fuse checks out, you can chase these circuits to your problem.

Good luck.
 
Miles Long said:
There is one thing in common to the neutral light, tach and temp gauge....the positive feed wire, which is part of the "signal" fuse circuit. A sporadic interuption to this could cause grief.
However,you've got fuel issues as well. The one thing common to the fuel circuit and all of the above is the brown feed wire from the ignition switch to the fuse box. NOTHING on the bike will function if this source wire goes bonkers!
First thing to check - that infamous three-wire (red, brown, blue) ignition switch connector :damn angry:, below the headstock. Lots of forum members have found the connector to be corroded, or burnt thru (me!) While you have it apart, check the continuity of the ignition switch.
That digital voltage gauge could also be a good diagnostic tool, but not wired direct to the battery. If you could bare the brown wire of a little insulation, preferably downstream of the three wire connector, and wire the gauge in here, any sporadic interruption of fuse box power would be evident. Of course the volt meter would only be powered up with the ignition "on". Which is probably a good thing - no draw on the battery with the bike off, regardless of how little amperage it uses.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Would a posi-tap connector be less intrusive/ damaging if this is a temporary connection?
 
Redbone said:
Would a posi-tap connector be less intrusive/ damaging if this is a temporary connection?
Click to expand...

I never heard of those BB....great idea. I've always used the blue stake-ons with the little gillotine thing that is s'posed to just part the insulation, but usually ends up chopping copper along the way.

These look perfect for a temp hook-up or even leave them in place with an insulated bullet connector for an alternate power source. :clapping:
 
Hi Danny I feel you man, I hope you get it work out. You, dman, miles long, and few others walk me through my bike when I pick it up...

I would also check your stator for AC voltage make sure all black wire are with in the same. I could not find my notes what the voltage is I had some ware.

Then after you check that, I would take out the dyna box and install the old ignition box if still have it. and see if the bike would run better.

My bike did have very poor grounding, I run a 12g - wire of the battery to frame and then tap 4 more grounds to the some of the electrics that was not having a good ground.

I added few days ago a led voltage meter and tap in to the brown wire key switch thanks to miles long input in another threat. I use double sided-ed tape to hold it in place.

Red bone thanks for the info posi tap. I order some just now off amazon.com
 

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jagco1 said:
Hi Danny I feel you man, I hope you get it work out. You, dman, miles long, and few others walk me through my bike when I pick it up...

I would also check your stator for AC voltage make sure all black wire are with in the same. I could not find my notes what the voltage is I had some ware.

Then after you check that, I would take out the dyna box and install the old ignition box if still have it. I see if the bike would run better.

My bike did have very poor grounding, I run a 12g - wire of the battery to frame and then tape 4 more grounds to the some of the electrics that was not having a good ground.

I added few days ago a led voltage meter and tap in to the brown wire key switch thanks to miles long input in another threat. I use double sided-ed tape to hold it in place.

Red bone thanks for the info posi tap. I order some just now off amazon.com
Click to expand...

Thanks Bunnyman! I don't have the oem ignition box but thinking if it was an ignition problem wouldn't the bike shut off when the problem occurs? It will keep running until the carbs are dry making me think it shuts down the fuel pump also. Then starts right back up and goes for a few more miles till it happens all over.
 
dannymax said:
Thanks Bunnyman! I don't have the oem ignition box but thinking if it was an ignition problem wouldn't the bike shut off when the problem occurs? It will keep running until the carbs are dry making me think it shuts down the fuel pump also. Then starts right back up and goes for a few more miles till it happens all over.
Click to expand...

Just thinking out loud mind you, You could have something pulling my power from the ignition box..... when the bike gets moving.... I had something like this happen with Corinne's "O" my baby girl bike she had a nos injector pulling to munch power from the ignition side of the bike at 8000rpms, she hit the switch rpms jump around lose of power... We remove it out of the system bike ran find.... She all ready has a fast bike... Do the rpms still jump around when it happens..

I bad ignition can still run a car it should be the same for a bike but not running right.

It sure would it easy pop a box to check, is there vmax guy near you that may have a spire 1...


It seems to shorting some ware, or ignition box going, or something pulling power away from the box....

Did you check the stator you can run the bike off the battery fully charge
and check the black wires on the stator... voltage
 
Danny,
If you rule everything else out and decide to swap out the ignitor, I have my stock '95 one you could borrow. Just let me know.
 
Thanks Mike, I'll keep that in mind.

I just went thru the grounds, connectors and "brown/red/blue" nightmare connector....everything looked great, shiny brass, lots of di-electric, etc.

Removed the neg. battery cable ground, cleaned & wire brushed all contact points, same with the grounds next to the fuel pump and on the hot water manifold. Disconnected, inspected all connectors and applied di-electric on any that didn't already have some....they looked good also.

The weird thing was when I disconnected the neg. batt. cable from the motor I expected the bike to lose power....it didn't, the gauge lights and head light got a little dimmer but didn't go out.....where the hell is it getting power from?

There is a charger harness wired to the + & - terminals and the digital voltage gauge....that's all as far as I know.

I also noticed when turning the key on (with grounds connected back up) the tach and temp gauge would jump about the width of the needle....the tach would return to zero and the temp gauge would stay up just off the zero peg....then return to the zero peg when the key is turned off.

The '96 does not do this.
 
:th_signs60::th_signs132:Weird.jpg

You must have a real gremlin! I would think with the Neg terminal disconnected, you would have no power to ground continuity happening.

Might be time to pull all your fuses except the main, fire it up, then reinstall fuses one at a time until you see one that allows this weird activity to return. :confused2:

Also, when you are 'checking' all those ground connections, are you measuring across the connector from the wire to the frame with an ohm meter to be certain that the wire is actually contacting properly inside the crimp-on wire ends? If corroded inside a connector, no amount of dielectric grease will help.
 
Think it was getting ground from maybe the fan by-pass switch or voltage meter cause when I disconnected everything from the battery (not just the ground by the oil fill) it killed the power.

Might have found the problem, the left rearfoot peg bracket to frame contact points were all rusty and the R/R to bracket surfaces had some corrosion, after cleaning them all up the voltage at idle had jumped up a half volt or so and the bike sat running for a long time without problems.

Oddly, partway through my ground cleaning today I noticed the servo motor had quit cycling....all it would do is hum, so I unplugged it. After cleaning up the R/R grounds I plugged it back in and it cycled normally....much to my surprise. :clapping:

It's been raining all day but hopefully tomorrow I can get it out for a road test, see how she goes then.

No Jim, I'm not doing the ohm testing....I don't know how. Like I said, I've been very fortunate to date but think that has changed and I will need to learn these things very soon....like maybe tonight! :punk:
 
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