Coolant Change

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Auggie_1970

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So not knowing the last time previous owner changed the coolant I decided it was time to tackle this job and thought it would be a good idea to document the process since I didn't see it anywhere on the forum. This is also documented on the service manual section 4-2 (coolant).

Here's the things you're going to need:

1) Coolant of your choice suitable for aluminum motors. I went with the recommendations from other posts I read here and went with Toyota Red @ $21/Gallon.

2) 17mm open end wrench for opening and closing the drain valve hosing and the drain bolt located on the water pump housing.

3) 4mm allen wrench to remove both your right scoop and the cylinder covers that cover the rubber plug on each of the 4 cylinders. See picture 1

4) 3 gallons of distilled water. You could probably do with less but I was anal and filled and flushed several times. You'll need less than half a gallon for the 50/50 water to coolant mixture.

5) Some white vinegar. I read many posts that mentioned this was part of their flushing/cleaning process when draining the old stuff so figured why not.

6) Small container for capturing the coolant when you drain it from the bike.

7) Small funnel to place under the drain bolt when you remove it to help coolant make its way to your container.


Here's the process I did. Not sure if it's all necessary but it worked well for me..

(bike was on center stand)

1) Took the 4mm allen wrench and cracked open each of the 4 screws on the cylinder drain hole covers.

2) Removed tank and right side scoop along with plastic piece that covers the area right below the radiator cap.

3) Took 17mm open end wrench and moved the coolant drain plug to the on position. There is a very small hair line mark that you align the drain plug to. Looking at the front of the bike on your hands and knees you'll see it around the 1 o'clock position. See picture 2


4) Started bike and let it get warm, not hot.


5) Place container under the water pump housing to catch your used coolant.

6) Use 17mm and loosened drain bolt.

7) Used one hand to hold funnel below the bolt while removing drain bolt with other hand..(Be careful here, make sure bike isn't hot or you're going to burn yourself with the coolant). I had a bunch of crap come out in the coolant so that inspired me to make sure I flush the system thoroughly..

8) Removed reservoir tank and cleaned thoroughly. There are two hoses connected to this resevoir. Simply depress each spring clamp and remove each hose. Pull straight up on reservoir to remove. Replace after cleaned, attached 2 hoses. See picture 3 for coolant reservoir

8) Took a gallon jug of distilled water and just poured it through the system.

9) Put the drain bolt back in to allow further cleaning with a mix of vinegar and distilled water. Capacity for me was about 3/4 gallon. I mixed in about 1/2 gallon of distilled water and the rest vinegar. Started bike and let run for a few minutes.

10) With bike cooled, drained the bike again, this time also removing the drain plugs from each cylinder. First remove the cylinder cover with 4mm allen wrench. Then remove rubber plug. To remove rubber plug I used an old spark plug. You basically screw the small threaded head of the spark plug into the rubber plug to aid in the removal of the plug. See picture 4. Gentle back and forth movements were all that was needed to remove each plug. Once removed small amounts of coolant will come out.


11) After my vinegar/water mix was drained I pressed in cylinder plugs again and filled the system one more time with just distilled water to do a final flush. I started the bike and let run for just a minute or two to help circulate the water. Drained everything again, removing the 4 cylinder plugs and the drain bolt.


Preparation for filling with coolant.


12) Put back all 4 rubber plugs and tightened down the cylinder covers.


13) Tighten the drain plug.


14) Double check two hoses are attached to coolant reservoir (See picture 3)



15) Took empty gallon jug 1 and filled with coolant to the 1/3 mark ( see picture 5) Transferred this amount to empty gallon jug #2.


16) Filled empty jug 1 to the 1/3 mark with distilled water..Transfer this to jug #2 from previous step that up to this point only has the coolant in it.


17) Shook up the container to mix the 50/50 solution thoroughly and poured into the radiator fill neck until fill.


18) Poured the 50/50 solution to the fill line on the coolant reservoir.


19) Started bike and watched the radiator fill neck and added 50/50 solution as the level went down.


20) After all filled up replaced radiator cap and put everything back together..

21) Move the drain valve back to the Off position.

Difficulty scale was a 1 (if that) out of 10. Approximate time took= 1 hour with me taking my time. Hope this helps anyone looking to do this.
 

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IMO, I would remove the drain cock valve to finish draining the rad rather than turning it to drain through the system. The reason I state this is because when I removed the drain cock valve a bunch of crap came out that settled in the bottom of the rad and drain hose.
At first it looked like shedded electrical tape, however it was in fact softened, delaminated black paint. I can only assume this is breaking down from internal factory paint. I ended up taking the hose off the bottom of the rad to remove most of it.
Keep in mind this came from an 05' with the stock coolant.
 

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funny i didn't know where the 17mm drain bolt was located. i kept on expecting the drain valve to act as a peacock valve and nothing would come out.

you would think tfisher that the stuff you have would have been chopped up by the water pump.
 
funny i didn't know where the 17mm drain bolt was located. i kept on expecting the drain valve to act as a peacock valve and nothing would come out.

you would think tfisher that the stuff you have would have been chopped up by the water pump.

Absolutely shreaded through the pump then settled in the bottom of the rad and drain line.
 
Did you put the radiator cap back on each time you cycled your cleaning solution through the engine?
 
Thanks NaughtyG and thanks for the welcome. I love this forum!! Just wish it was a little faster...My 2002 keeps getting really hot in traffic and slow speeds even with the fan on it doesn't bring it down much so I am going to change the coolant and flush the system. Also plan on putting a manual fan switch in...I have found a bunch of info to do this...I love the step by step processes!!! They help me a bunch!
 
ok,my question is this,the 88 i got a few weeks back used to be my fathers,i called the dealership he took it to to have service work on it,and they have no records of any "coolant flush" being done(only topping it off),so im going to do it this weekend,and i see alot of folks going with the "Toyota Red" is there a certain version of that i should use? or is it a general coolant,i have no idea whats in the bike now other than its "green"(and honestly doesnt look as bad as i thought it would)
 
the toyota stuff is good but now they also have the pink 100k life stuff that is already premixed 50-50 for you. i stil use the regular stuff because i like to run 30% coolant.
 
if u want toyota red just walk into any dealership and ask for it. they should know what you mean (in the service dept)...

never tried the pink stuff.
 
I'm having good luck with Zerex "Asian" formula in my CR5. Haven't made it into the max yet. It is silicate free, contains phosphates for corrosion protection, and designed for aluminum engines and alloys. Supposedly good for 150K miles. Easy to find at my local Napa and is less than $10/gallon. Comes premixed. I probably would have went with the toyota stuff but there isn't a dealer close by and this stuff is definitely cheaper.
 
thx for the reply,my bud works at a auto body shop,and can get me the Toyota red for nothing,him and I just were not sure if theres "different versions" of it was all,i didnt want to put red in my bike if one type would hurt it is all
 
Ok so when the bike is running the little BB on the drain cock should be at the TOP?
And when you drain the system the BB should be moved to the BOTTOM hole?
 
well,i got my coolant changed,now the damn drain valve is leaking,off is at the "1 oclock" posistion,and its leaking out around the area where the drain nut you turn and the housing it sits in. :(
btw i ended up going with Toyota Pink,new coolant probably cleaned out some crap around the drain valve seal and its causing it to leak now
 

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