Lol oh come on seriously tho me waiting to get my bike done has created a little mess for but in the end I dont care.. I should put all the money towards credit cards and down payment for house. Lol now im waiting for my stupid score to get back up so I could get a dam house!!!!
This is everything I need to polish.... well recently added my radiator and scoop inserts also the little rectangle cylinder plates... but I have to get all this done before I leave for texas for two weeks on the 31st so I can get it to the anodizing shop.. and by the time I get home from work I dont have time so thinking im taking some days off next week
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85 Vmax with a 97 PCW1260 chain drive " Blue Reaper" Muscle kit, Annodized Kosman bolt together 17" rims, MaxGasser , 135+RWHP and lots more
Beautiful work. I mount a hard polishing wheel on my hand grinder. It works well
and gets into the crevises. The bench polisher is best for finishing. There is a lot of
time involved in doing this.
Steve-o
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I participate in the VMF Roadside Assistance Program P - Trailer-pick up with in 50 miles T - Tools F - Food/ beverages
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85 Vmax with a 97 PCW1260 chain drive " Blue Reaper" Muscle kit, Annodized Kosman bolt together 17" rims, MaxGasser , 135+RWHP and lots more
Guys, I need to bring this thread back. I was inspired after reading this thread and bought the recomended HF 8" polisher. I also bought a couple of their 8 inch wheel kits with the spiral and loose cotten combos...but I can't even get started. I can't get the buffing wheels on the buffer centered. Turn it on and it shakes like crazy. Do I need to put 2 wheels on each side? The holes in these wheels are too big. I though the aluminum spacers were supposed to go on to help, but 2 of them won't go past the threads. And with the backwards threads on the other end of the shaft, how the Heck do you get these to tighten up?
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VMOA #5674
04 Cobra vert 501/495
07 Jeep SRT w/maggie 505/490
05 Max stock....
You can get the rubber hole adapters from most local tool stores ( machine tool store ).
Number two, did you buy a rake? If not go buy one and you can "shape" your wheel to a concentric non vibrating spin.
There are some very basic things your doing wrong here, polishing isn't rocket science, but its an art. ALOT of people think they can polish and they make things shiny, but change shape and size of the final part not realizing it.
Getting a true mirror finish on something is not easy, its very time consuming and very dirty. We do this every day in the shop with gun parts. I ve done my fair share of my own bike parts and dislike it everytime. The up keep is stupid unless you clear coat it and if you clear it , it doesn't have the same shine.
So lets go with left hand thread, hold the opposite side while you tighten the nut down. These don't have to be 100 ft lbs of force. Just enough to keep it from spinning on you. But first before you do that, you need the correct hole adapters to get it to seat right. You can rake it to size, but you will waste alot of you wheel doing that and make a big mess. Second, what types of wheels are you using and compounds as well. You need to start sanding everything by hand till you get to around 1200-2000 grit level and then go to a black with either a sewn wheel or possible a sisal wheel. After the black wheel, clean the part and remove all wax build up or you will cross contaminate your wheels. Next go to a loose cotton wheel with white compound, repeat the cleaning and then go to a loose flannel wheel with blue coloring compound. The last stepping is the only step you will polish only, or in other words follow the direction of the wheel. The other two steps you will go against the wheel to start and then go with the wheel to end. Against the wheel is buffing, with the wheel is polishing. That is some VERY basic things for you to try. Aluminum will whip out fast, make sure you have no pits or damage or you will make them worse. Sand all that out before starting to polish.
FIRST AND FOREMOST WEAR A RESPIRATOR !!! One that covers your eyes and mouth, Not just the mouth ones. You will absorb more crap through your eyes then your nose or mouth. Unless you want to die from cancer and other related problems of ingesting this stuff, please make sure to wear that respirator.
Now that you have spent around $500 on equipment you can start your polishing. So honestly if you want to screw around with a couple of small parts, then try it yourself. If you just want to do a few parts on your bike, let someone else do it. You'll be time and money ahead, not to mention your health.
If you have more troubles let me know and I'll steer you right and get you going.
Thanks for the information, that's much more detail than I had. Why, if there are only a couple different size arbors on these machines, wouldn't they make the pads in the right diameters? Seems like common sense. Course I've only looked at HF stuff, not wanting to make a big investment here. Never knew I needed hole adapters.
I bought a rake, but don't want to use it until I can get the wheels mostly centered and on there at least semi tight. I figured you would tighten each side just like you described...but both sides tighten/loosen in the same direction. Holding one side while tightening the other isn't possible.
I have some spiral wheels and loose cotton ones, with compounds 2 thru 5. I know to sand before hand. I'm not looking to go into business, just shine up a few parts, but your points are well taken. I set up the equipment outside, understanding the safety concerns, but never thought about needing a respirator.
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VMOA #5674
04 Cobra vert 501/495
07 Jeep SRT w/maggie 505/490
05 Max stock....
Lots of information there for the beginner. But I repeat, a respirator is a must and it HAS to be one that covers your eyes. There is no if and of but, you need it and you have to have the correct one or you might as well not wear one.
Lots of information there for the beginner. But I repeat, a respirator is a must and it HAS to be one that covers your eyes. There is no if and of but, you need it and you have to have the correct one or you might as well not wear one.
Good luck!
Todd
I'm fucked..... lol
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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85 Vmax with a 97 PCW1260 chain drive " Blue Reaper" Muscle kit, Annodized Kosman bolt together 17" rims, MaxGasser , 135+RWHP and lots more
OK- On the HF polishing motor you have two spacers. These go in the shaft FIRST, then the inside backing plate for the wheels. The wheels have too big holes but dome with a couple of cheap stamped adapters. You have to use those adapters and the small one will nest inside the big one. Look at the triangle indents on the bigger one to see how they go together. Remember the rased side of the adapters go INSIDE the wheels.
I'm not a very good polisher, so I also have some Lacquer thiner on hand and a clean rag (cloth dipers are the very best!) What will happen is when you get too much compound on the wheel you will transfer it to the metal and you will get some streaks of build up wax/compound. I use a bit of thinner on the rag to clean those off.
After you prep your wheel, hold the stick of compound against the wheel. It needs the heat of the spinning pad to melt the wax that holds the abrasive.
On alum, I suggest starting with Black, moving to brown then finishing with white compound on the loose wheel.
Mark your wheels so you know what is on each one, do not use multiple compounds on the same wheel
On just about everything on the MAX, you will already have a clear coat- save you time and use stripper to get it off.
You will have to start with Wet dry sandpaper (using it wet). I go 320, 400, 600, 1000.
You should look into getting some Sisal wheels for your first corse cutting. Then the Spiral Sewn with brown compound, and when it is polised to perfection go to the White on a loose buff.Each grit, I change the direction I'm going to I can see when I have the previous scratches out.
A couple of tricks... You can skip the sanding bu buying some Eastwood Greaseless Compounds. (Remember to give each its own wheel) These are way more corse then polishing compounds and will cut alum much faster the hand sanding. When I'm working on something that is cast (like a intake) I use these. But you have to be careful because you can cut into ridges with them real quick
Something elas I would pick up is Meguiar's G15104 Heavy Cut Metal Polish. When you get tired of spending all the time and still seeing a ton of scratches, you can put this on the piece and use a sewn buff to polish it off. You will get a great shine despite not having all the scratches out.
One other thing... If you decide to do your scopes, you will get the polishing all done and still have what look like stains in the alum. I talked to several people and they all hade the same result. If someone knows how to get rid of those, let me know- I think it is something in the casting. Scopes are not easy. The have vertical lines in them- no doubt to give the clear coat something to hold on to- It will take a long time to polish these out. I spent 2 days getting rid of those lines, and frankly it wasn't until I went back and tried the Greaseless Compounds. (which is really starting over)
I also have got in the habit of wiping the piece down with thinner between each compound.
I should note that I have seen guys with the BIG polishing wheels do about 2 hours of "pre-polishing" in about 10 min.
Hope this helps
Craig
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The more I practice, the luckier I get
One other thing... If you decide to do your scopes, you will get the polishing all done and still have what look like stains in the alum. I talked to several people and they all hade the same result. If someone knows how to get rid of those, let me know- I think it is something in the casting. Scopes are not easy. The have vertical lines in them- no doubt to give the clear coat something to hold on to- It will take a long time to polish these out. I spent 2 days getting rid of those lines, and frankly it wasn't until I went back and tried the Greaseless Compounds. (which is really starting over)
THe stain you are seeing is two things. One too much heat build up in the part. If your not careful you will warp the part possibly changing its form. The heat build up if caught before you actually change the metal structure can be saved. But if you have to use gloves to hold your parts, your getting them WAY to hot. You should wear rubber gloves to keep the crap off your hands, but shouldn't be using anything else. If you get the part too hot and stain it , you will have to sand it down past that mark.
Now streaks of different colors in a part can be materials in the part itself. Porosity holding trapped contaminents etc. Anyways..... getting out some of that stain and getting rid of the white haze you get left over from doing the final part in white only, you need to use blue compounds. Blue is coloring only. It will not buff and really only does a light polishing, but really is removing haze and evening out the color of the shine.
When you dress a wheel you want your part, or something after your compound as you dress it. What your doing here is forcing the compound into the wheel. You will have build up on the part, but it will be hot melted wax and if you go right into buffing with it, you will be fine. You will always have compound being deposited on your parts that you have to wipe off.
Craig I wouldn't use thinner to clean off the parts as you buff. Not sure if that is what your doing, but you will wear out your wheels faster and possibly contaminate your wheels with the thinner.
Use a quench tank to keep your parts cool between buffing cycles or if they start to get to hot, quench them and let them air cool and go on to another part while it cools. Never get them hot enough that you can't hold on to them. That is not good. You will waste compound on your wheels because the hot part will just wipe it off.
There is alot to more to polishing then people realize. Its not just buying a grinder, putting a buffing wheel on it with compound and going to town. Backyard polishing is often that way and while people may be happy with their results, but there is alot more science involved with surface speed, wheel size, directional deflections of the loose and sewn wheels etc. If you just want a shine, strip the clear coat, hit it with white and blue and you can be done in 20 mins. If you want it to look good, it can and probably will take you hours to make it nice.
The riser clamp was a quick polishing job. It shows some lines and deflection in it. The headlight surround and actual riser where sanded and buffed a little better and dont show the lines of deflection. These AREN'T great polished parts, but probably a step above what you will see most backyard or small shops acomplish. There is ALOT of work left to make them how I would normally like them to be. But I didn't want to spend time with them since I was going to powder coat them down the road. I just wanted to clean them up.
Anyways, I think you get the idea of it pretty much.
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