kmp123
Active Member
the clutch lever pulls back touching the grip, is this how it works ? or is it more like brake levers which never touch grip ?
Help Support VMAX Forum:
kmp123
Active Member
First one with hydrolic clutch
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Yes, it should go to the bar just like a cable operated clutch
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
blaxmax
Well-Known Member
I cannot tell you how many hydraulic clutches I have replaced with cables---Love the feeling of the cable.:clapping:
kmp123
Active Member
is it a easy swap ? hydraulic to cable on a vmax ? thx just ruling out possible causes of shift issues
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
^ I personally Have never seen any Vmax with a cable operated clutch.
As long as your clutch lever has good steady pressure all the way in it is fine.
I would open the master cylinder and make sure the fluid look clean and the return hole is clear though if you are having clutch issues.
If the fluid is good, I'd pull off the clutch cover and inspect the friction and pressure plates and replace the frictions if they are worn.
The Steel plates can usually just be sanded or scrubbed with a green scotch-brite pad and re-used.
As long as your clutch lever has good steady pressure all the way in it is fine.
I would open the master cylinder and make sure the fluid look clean and the return hole is clear though if you are having clutch issues.
If the fluid is good, I'd pull off the clutch cover and inspect the friction and pressure plates and replace the frictions if they are worn.
The Steel plates can usually just be sanded or scrubbed with a green scotch-brite pad and re-used.
kmp123
Active Member
it grinds into gear, like not using the clutch lever. not a lot of clean shifts. Bike has 10000 miles, how often should clutch be replaced ?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
Then something Definitely isn't right.
Do what I said above and let us know how everything looks.
Do what I said above and let us know how everything looks.
kmp123
Active Member
I will need a new gasket, hondabond, and friction plates ?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
Read this (just ignore the parts about adding the extra spring), it has the parts listed you will need:
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm
blaxmax
Well-Known Member
Sorry, all mine were Suzuki gsxr's.
kmp123
Active Member
Thanks I opened the master cylinder, if I pull lever a little , a little fountain comes up. if I pull it slow enough no fountain and nothing else happens all the way to the grip ! ? is the fluid supposed to go down as lever is pulled ?
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I have a couple of similar Chinese made folding levers so I switched the mounts around (kept the same lever) but when I was initially putting it back together I didn't get plunger rod back into the bush(brass cup) on the lever properly which kept pressure on the clutch that caused the clutch to start slipping after it fully warmed up. I came back home after stopping to get fuel (was on reserve) and resolved the problem then took her out on nearly a 200 mile date.
unk:
unk:
You would need new friction disks if your clutch was slipping. Your's is not slipping it not fully disengaging. That's almost always a hydraulic problem, leaky master or slave cylinder seal, or both.
kmp123
Active Member
thanks, there's no noticeable leak at master, will take a look at slave next. maybe the two screws holding it are loose.
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
Or it needs bleedijg..
fmcandrew
Well-Known Member
If no leaks then bleed...there are lots of tricks here to help you...I personally like tying the lever to the bar over night. The feel on these is unique in that it can be right off the bar...
If no improvement after bleed then time to crack open clutch case and see if clutch is moving when clutch lever is depressed...might need master/slave rebuild or something else might be binding...
If no improvement after bleed then time to crack open clutch case and see if clutch is moving when clutch lever is depressed...might need master/slave rebuild or something else might be binding...
Your clutch fluid will not go down much, if at all, while pulling the clutch lever in. If you were bleeding the system, and released the lever (after re-closing the bleed screw), you would see the fluid lower as it enters the master bore to replace that fluid which you just released down at the slave.
If your bike is not pulling you forward while in gear, and with the clutch lever all the way in to the handlebars, you may not have anything wrong with the clutch whatsoever. It could be that your shift segment needs adjustment, or replacement. There's a thread around here some place covering shift segment problems.
If your bike pulls you forward while it's in gear & the clutch is all the way in, then I vote you may have air in the system as previously mentioned, and you would need to re-bleed it. Sometimes, if air is getting trapped in the clutch system, and it doesn't seem to ever go away completely after bleeding, or the same problem recurs after a few days, you can sometimes find that elusive air bubble sitting right at the banjo bolt (where the hydraulic line connects to the handlebar master cylinder). Air bubbles tend to migrate upward towards the highest point if left alone, since they are lighter than the fluid. You can sometimes get it out easier if you apply a bit of lever pressure whilst gently loosening up that bolt. If doing that, be sure not to let up on the lever until after you've retightened the banjo bolt - same as you'd do if bleeding the system down at the slave cylinder...you don't want to release that lever & accidentally pull any air back into the system through the loosened bolt. And of course, be super sure to properly cover all your bike while doing any bleeding, to prevent possible brake fluid damage to any plastic or painted parts. If you splash any fluid, be sure to thoroughly was off ASAP. (you most likely already know this)
Similar threads
