Clutch problem

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J

J-RUDY

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Had problem with my clutch going into 1st gear so I took it apart, it was the cage that holds the dowel pins in. Fixed that,, then decided to do the Double D mod, but when I had it apart, I squeezed the clutch leaver fully then released, I moved it one more time, it locked fully out, didn't think anything about it. Put everything back together. But the lever will not depress, its like something is stopping the engagement, it does shift without using the clutch so the clutch is working. Is there something that could slip down behind the whole clutch assembly to to prevent the lever from moving. Tried bleeding - didn't help.

Please Help......
 
J, you'll need to take apart the clutch again. Remember seeing that metal ball? Remove that and push the long push rod back into the slave cylinder with a long screwdriver. If I remember right Kloker said that cracking the clutch bleeder open might solve your problem too.

Check out the picture. Parts in question are #21 (push rod #2) and #22 (ball).
 

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I just tried both pushing on the rod and also breaking the breather and pushing the rod, both with NO success the clutch leaver just wont depress. when you push on the rod and break open the breather does it act like a brake cylinder and it will move very slowly and need lots of pressure..?? But the way it acts its like its solid.... The part that pushes against the ball bearing, is the rim (flange) suppose to be against the clutch shaft or is there a .25+ inch gap, right now it has a gap, does that mean the rod is seated correctly.??
 
J-RUDY said:
Had problem with my clutch going into 1st gear so I took it apart, it was the cage that holds the dowel pins in. Fixed that,, then decided to do the Double D mod, but when I had it apart, I squeezed the clutch leaver fully then released, I moved it one more time, it locked fully out, didn't think anything about it. Put everything back together. But the lever will not depress, its like something is stopping the engagement, it does shift without using the clutch so the clutch is working. Is there something that could slip down behind the whole clutch assembly to to prevent the lever from moving. Tried bleeding - didn't help.

Please Help......
Click to expand...


" it does shift without using the clutch so the clutch is working"

A clutch has nothing to do with the transmission shifting gears. The clutch controls the actually rotation drive from the engine to the drive shaft. I dont use the clutch when shifting at the track.
Get a good pictured instruction on performing the Double D mod. Follow each step carefully. Its really hard to troubleshoot an induced improper operation without being there.


I am assuming this problem with the clutch started after you put it together?
I would take the whole clutch apart again. Meaning remove all steels and plates. If you did the double D mod make sure you removed the skinnky fiber along with the wire clip.
 
yep put it together right (plates) but when it was apart, I depressed the clutch lever and released it, after that it would not depress... I have it all apart now. When the clutch is engaged is it tight to the clutch plates.? there is a gap, so the clutch should be free (not engaged) right.? but this is now with the lever not depressed so something is wrong, would it be the tranny then.??
 
J-RUDY said:
yep put it together right (plates) but when it was apart, I depressed the clutch lever and released it, after that it would not depress... I have it all apart now. When the clutch is engaged is it tight to the clutch plates.? there is a gap, so the clutch should be free (not engaged) right.? but this is now with the lever not depressed so something is wrong, would it be the tranny then.??
Click to expand...


NOTHING IS WRONG WITH TRANNY, Can you pull the clutch in with the clutch plate off and just leaving the plates in?

Sounds like you either have to many plates in, or you are installing the plate wrong. When you pull the clutch it pushes the plate out allowing space between the clutch plates. NO youd clutch plates shouldnt have space between them when the clutch lever is not pulled in

Release the bleeder on the slave cyln. Squeeze the clutch lever and tell me what happens.
 
Tell me how many steels you have installed
Tell me how many fibers you have installed.


Did you buy an extra fiber plate when upgrading to the double D?
 
I removed the Half friction plate and put a whole one in removed the other two parts like it says. When I break the breather and squeeze the lever all it does is push the fluid out the breather, then I close the breather, release the lever, then the lever will not squeeze again. The clutch plates and boss don't push out to engage, they just don't move out. could the clutch spring be stopping the pressure plate from pushing back, (I have to check to see if the spaces are missing the threaded studs that allow the pressure plate to move back...
 
nope that wasn't it... The clutch pressure plate is off and the lever still does not move, When does the clutch boss gears engage with the pressure plate gears, all the time? because the pin with the flange and o-ring holds the pressure plate out so the gears on the clutch boss don't engage right now. It is like the push rod is not seated proper in the slave cylinder but trying to push it in doesn't work, would I have to take the slave out.?
 
Sounds like the problem is your slave cyl. I bet you popped the piston all the way out when you squeezed the clutch with no load.. Removing the slave cyl is easy one line and 2 metric bolts.
I bet that is what happened. If you blew your slave cyl piston out along with the seal and it leaks I have a slave cyln in good working conditon.
Focus on the slave cylinder sounds as you blew it out. Its not the clutch master cyl. and its not in the clutch basket. Onlything left is the slave cyl.

Also, if you ever do a brake job, dont squeeze the brake lever / push brake pedal if you have your brake caliper off.
Dont worry whatever you tore up can be fixed, just chalk it up as a learning expierence.. ;-)
 
The slave will be fine. Just removed it and push the piston back into place. What you did was make it move outward so the face of the slave is now trying to compress the block (which is not going to move). The lever should feel rock hard. many times you can push it back in with the screwdriver method but it does get cocked sometimes too when it gets that far out.

I have even used a hammer with screwdriver and popped it back in while it was bolted up (though the clutch basket). If you don't put it all together with the ball bearing you end up in the same situation. You don't have to have the cover on to watch the clutch operation once you get it back together.

Sean
 
Yep..!! that's what it was, I hand a rod made at work then went through the center aligned the parts and then could push the piston back slapped her together and a bunch of lever pumps and poof fixed..!! went for a test spin and it works great..!!!

Thanks for all the GREAT Help guys..!!!! :punk:
 
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