1986 V-Max Restoration from Argentina

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tianto

Active Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
39
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1
Location
Buenos Aires - Argentina
Hi all!

First please forgive My bad English...! :icon_rolleyes:

Mi name is Sebastian. I'm from Argentina and have 36 years old. I love cars (Mopars. I got a '73 Argentine GTX) and bikes. Always love this bike since first time I saw it. Love at first sight in 1990..! This is my 2? bike and a dream came true 18 years later.
I always love to put my hands on my vehicles...I have restored a '61 valiant, made a lot of things to my GTX...and now this beauty...!

I bought a 1986 V-Max, half the normal price they use to be here....for the prices that you manage, this is to expensive...! a 1994 vmax here in good condition is more or less 13.000 dollars.

In the conditions that I bought it, i suppose that something has to have to be so cheap....opportunities came one in a life, and I take the chance.

Know the engine is at the machine shop, rebuilding all the things that it has wrong...bearing, pistons, cylinders, etc...etc....

I will post all the work here if you like it...

As all want to see pictures, here they come...please post comments, critics and recommendations, they are all welcome!

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As you could see in this pictures, the bike was not very well. It has some parts changed like the handlebar, missing raiser, front crown cover, chrome carb covers....and some more things thay I have already purchase
 

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First off, welcome to the forum!! Glad to hear that you finally got to purchase your dream bike:punk:. Being a hands on type of guy you will have a lot of fun modding out your Max. Keep on posting pics as you do mods and most of all have fun.
 
I bought the bike in august...
So I decided to disassemble all the bike to restore it completely...

pictures...
 

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Thanks Jim..!

I read all day the forum last 2 month?s, and I love It..!! Great Info and help!

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More pictures

I put all the parts in plastic bags and rotulated them to not forget....

I first stripped all the paint and rust from the frame and applied 2 coats of anti rust epoxy....this weekend I will paint the frame with black epoxy.

the engine is in the machine shop...they are doing all the repairs and they told me that its going to be like new...Hope so..

The bike was very bad treated by some "mechanics" if I could said so...

This bike needs some love....

hope you like the work I made to her...
 

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Awesome pics!

Keep them coming!

Did you gusset the frame before painting it up? It helps add strength and rigidity.

Oh and your English is better than my Spanish! :biglaugh:

Cheers
 
Looking good so far!! Need to do a frame re-paint on mine one of these days. Keep up the good work, seems that your Max is in good hands now:eusa_dance:
 
Dont sweat the language thing, I have no trouble understanding what you're trying to say. That's more than I can say for some native english speaking people I know! :bang head:

As far as the spun bearing, are they going to try tp repair the case or replace it? It looks to me to be in pretty rough shape but pictures can be deceiving.

It sounds like Max finally found a loving home. Do keep us informed of your progress and feel free to ask questions.
 
Did you gusset the frame before painting it up? It helps add strength and rigidity.

No gusset?s at this time. It would really be the time for doing this things, but for know I want to leave it original and with time in future, I will make all upgrades. I even don?t know how it handles and I don?t have the ability to test it. I mean that I don't have " the driving skills proper for this beast" :confused2:
thanks for your comments..!


As far as the spun bearing, are they going to try tp repair the case or replace it? It looks to me to be in pretty rough shape but pictures can be deceiving.

Yes, it looks very rough....when I open the cover, it almost give me a stroke!


Maleko89, Thevmaxrider and Storloc Thanks for your comments
 
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Good luck with the repair. Looking at the Fly wheel nut, it appears rounded, so
somebody's been in there previously.
whilst apart check that the starter clutch is not loose to the fly wheel, three bolts hold it on and commonly work loose. Had the same issue just recently, new bolts and loctite (thread locking adhesive) fixed it.
 

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First off, welcome to the forum, tianto!

It definitely looks like that max is now in good hands and look forward to seeing your progress.

I would suggest that you look at gusseting the frame now that it is at the bare frame stage - much easier to do now than when the bike is assembled.

Also, looking at the pictures, that transmission looks like it has the first generation gears in it (2nd and 5th gear). If they only have one notch in the teeth, rather than two, than they are first generation and you may want to change them or get them back cut them as they are a weak area and can cause the second gear to slip under hard acceleration.

Again, good luck on the project and keep us posted.

Mike
 

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Welcome aboard ,..this man has definite love for this bike,...good to see it in your hands Tatiano. All the best to you and the project Max.
You are in very good hands here , lots of knowledgeable people and all more than willing to help a fellow Maxxer.
Your English is very good,....no worries. :punk:
 
:clapping: Tianto, you are doing a sweet job on that Max. Thanks for the link to this site. I am now a member, also. Later, Radi8r:punk:
 
Good luck with the repair. Looking at the Fly wheel nut, it appears rounded, so
somebody's been in there previously.
whilst apart check that the starter clutch is not loose to the fly wheel, three bolts hold it on and commonly work loose. Had the same issue just recently, new bolts and loctite (thread locking adhesive) fixed it.

Yes Jedi your right...unfortunately some monkey was there...not a mechanic or a common sense man..I have to repair all this little bad things they do...the worst part is that I purchase her from a Official Yamaha dealer..."bike is good, it only needs some love"...No comments. But I don't regret. when I finish her, I will feel its more mine....

Good point I will take care of the starter clutch..! thanks very much!

I would suggest that you look at gusseting the frame now that it is at the bare frame stage - much easier to do now than when the bike is assembled.

Also, looking at the pictures, that transmission looks like it has the first generation gears in it (2nd and 5th gear). If they only have one notch in the teeth, rather than two, than they are first generation and you may want to change them or get them back cut them as they are a weak area and can cause the second gear to slip under hard acceleration.

Again, good luck on the project and keep us posted.

Mike

Hi Maxcruiser..! Gussets....I'm feeling bad for these as I cant do it right now... I need to have a Tig or a Mig or take here to a shop for doing these. I only have a gas welder and an simple electric and I don't think that they are the right tools for welding the gussets... But I?m thinking to do them somehow... For me your recommendations are important as you people know much more as I..! And I have to repair the centerstand ears that some previous owner shave them....so I will need to weld as well and have to buy a centerstand as I dont have it.

For the 2 and 5 gear, this weekend I have start reading for this problem and as you said, I have to repair these...dont want to have problems....so I speak with a friend and he knows a shop that could do the undercut...

Thanks for you comments!!


RazoR333 Thanks for your welcome!!

Radi8r: Hi Scott!! Glad to see you here..! I meet Scott through Ebay... I buy him a crown cover and we keep in touch by emails. Great man!
 
Can't quite see 2nd gear well. If you can get a better picture of it I maybe can help. Now would be a good time to change out to an overdrive 5th gear setup like we sell. Much lower cruise rpm's in fifth. It does require some additional undercutting and either we can prep a trans and have you ship back your old one or sell one to you outright.

Sean
 
Hi Sean!

Here you have some pictures...if you need more please ask me what to take..

Is seems that are not very good...

I have some parts that I need to buy, I will PM you..!

Thanks very much

Sebastian
 

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Here's my personal opinion. The bolt in the flywheel looks normal too me. They are supposed to be peened as well to help prevent them from backing out. I have seen very deep peens and peens that were barely there. Either way it won't hurt to change the bolts, inspect the starter cluch housing for cracks (look on the outboard areas), and check the wheel gear for wear.

The trans is the newer style trans like it should be (not the 85 design that was problematic). It can be undercut and repaired without much problems. There is at least one gear that I can see the dogs are heavily rounded on. That gear at least will require hard welding or replacing before we can undercut it (or anyone else for that matter).

You will want to replace the shift forks and shift shafts and consider the shift drum. At a minimum you will want to upgrade the shift segment on the end of the drum to a 99 or newer style.

You may want to get a set of ARP head studs from me for more clamping force to help prevent head gasket failures. I also have a HD oil pump system. There are other things you can do while the engine is out like solid mounts, ect....

Feel free to email me - [email protected]

I can send you a sample build sheet for one of the 1300's we do which will have a lot of the things priced for you. You'll want to have the machine shop upgrade the rods (or we can do it) by adding bronze sleeves to the pin end.

I think I even have a few papers I have made over the years that will help in certain areas too.

Sean Morley
 
Here's my personal opinion. The bolt in the flywheel looks normal too me. They are supposed to be peened as well to help prevent them from backing out. I have seen very deep peens and peens that were barely there. Either way it won't hurt to change the bolts, inspect the starter cluch housing for cracks (look on the outboard areas), and check the wheel gear for wear.

The trans is the newer style trans like it should be (not the 85 design that was problematic). It can be undercut and repaired without much problems. There is at least one gear that I can see the dogs are heavily rounded on. That gear at least will require hard welding or replacing before we can undercut it (or anyone else for that matter).

You will want to replace the shift forks and shift shafts and consider the shift drum. At a minimum you will want to upgrade the shift segment on the end of the drum to a 99 or newer style.

You may want to get a set of ARP head studs from me for more clamping force to help prevent head gasket failures. I also have a HD oil pump system. There are other things you can do while the engine is out like solid mounts, ect....

Feel free to email me - [email protected]

I can send you a sample build sheet for one of the 1300's we do which will have a lot of the things priced for you. You'll want to have the machine shop upgrade the rods (or we can do it) by adding bronze sleeves to the pin end.

I think I even have a few papers I have made over the years that will help in certain areas too.

Sean Morley

What are considered the "dog or dog gears" in the tranny? I've heard the term quite a few times but have never figured out what it is.
 
You have the teeth that do the actual wheel turning, the "dogs" are the protrusions from the sides of the gears that mesh into the gear next to it on the same shaft. Generally there are 3 on a side of the gear but sometimes there are more.

The early Vmax trans had the actual teeth of second gear meshing into the side of fifth gear. There was a lot more surface area to mesh but was problematic for the power the vmax made.

Note: the 86-93 ventures also used that style of engagement and we have yet to have one fail. I would say the gear problem was more rider then design.

Sean Morley
 
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