Devil is in the details - Carburetors!

[ouchez]

I usually use tan masking tape and a Sharpie fine-tip marker to label things. Make a 'flag' around hoses or wires, and each pair gets an 'A', or a 'B', 'C', etc. works well for me.

A piece of cardboard, & punching holes into it with an awl, after tracing the outline of the side case, is a good way to make sure that screws and washers go-back where they need to-be.

I also use one of those configurable double-sided parts storage cases, when I'm disassembling a bike, w/the tan masking tape and Sharpie labels inside each compartment.

You are a smart man!

 

[jmailley]

Since we're in carb review mode, ever since I bought my 93 around 8 years ago, I notice that even after I've done the carbs, once doing the rebuild kit (o rings and gaskets) I still get a very rich smells @ idle. They sync well enough, with a little flutter, but pretty steady @ 1,000. My buddy who does vintage car resto, and works on Weber carbs all the time says the fuel pump may be pushing too hard and blowing fuel past the needle or idle jets. Anybody ever experience or check this and if so, anybody ever check pressure from the pump?

And after hearing about many of you that have gum up problems after letting the bike sit; Why aren't you running clear fuel in your bike? Never have the gum problem running clear 92. Even after it sits over winter, clear won't attract water, so no gum.

 

[ouchez]

Jmailley, Here in Mi a MAX can sit 6 months between riding seasons, so what I have always done is for the last fill put in super premium or rec gas, add stable, then run the MAX for 10 minutes, shut off, drain the floats into a glass jar, plug in the batter tender, and when the riding season starts Max has always started and ran just fine.