Recent content by fruit_nut

Hi, can anyone out there tell me if a crank adaption for a blower drive for the 1200 is available anywhere, or, advise me on a suitable modification. cheers

still waiting for my money. I have perused various blog sites, and it seems that, not only has Paul/Bob Bertaut taken others for a ride, it also seems that a lot of information that he offers(which makes us think that he is some sort of wizz kid) is plagiarised from various true experts! Isn't...

g'day from OZ., I also own and race an xs speedway side car at classic speedway events, or at least I did until 8 months ago. In febuary I stripped the motor down for a rebuild, and decided I would rephase the motor. I found a prominent website that claimed expertise in this field with xs650s...

read my thread headed "internal noise", (page 2) for a possible solution.

The vmax does break the threaded section at the coupling end of the pinion shaft. This is common!

I made mmy own tool for removing the threaded alloy pinion retainer. Be aware that this retainer is a left-hand thread!

sorry ive been so slow, but I bought a s/h drive unit. I have since fiddled with the broken pinion shaft, and found that it was very easy to drill and tap the front end of the shaft. I placed the shaft in the lathe, holding it by the spigot inner race, and using a centre starting bit to create...

Im 6ft. and I dropped my pegs 40mm by fabricating drop plates. The l/h side is a straight plate(6mm) and drilled accordingly, tho a little attention is required to accomodate the side stand. The r/h side plate is a little more complicated. A boss for the foot brake shaft must be included, and a...

Just a point of interest, I tried buying a new crownwheel & pinion from yamaha, and was informed that I could not buy them separately, and that I would have to buy a complete unit. I picked up a second hand unit instead.

picked up a s/h unit from metropolitan spares, sydney, excellent service. I will look at repairing the old unit by drilling & tapping the broken end of the pinion shaft, and fitting a stud & nut. This may create a weak point, which, if the stud breaks, will be repairable.

The coupling is splined, which keeps the drive engaged. The nut which has sheared positively locates the pinion in its housing, and maintains correct end float.

Found it! Snapped the pinion shaft at the nut. Now to find out how to remove the pinion from the housing.

thanks rattheroach, but the bearings are only 5k old and seem to be fine. the noise only appears when I decelerate from above 25kph. it seems that negative thrust is causing something to misalign.

took the bike out this morning, and discovered that it had develped a whirring noise under deceleration,(akin to apiece of cardboard stuck between the front wheel and mudgaurd).I disassembled the clutch and the final drive,but found nothing untoward. Has anyone come across tis problem before?